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PHAZER MTX - 151" TRACK WITHOUT EXTENSIONS

murph said:
Made the changes to the Phazer:

Nytro drivers
cut-down Nytro track
anti-stab kit
Home built rear brackets (1/8" aluminum plate)
Mtn Tamer
4.5" setback


Rode it in heavy pow, high moisture content:
Observations:
1. Seemed to lose the "tippy-ness"--for us this was a negative--GF loved the tippyness and "floating" feeling the skis had under acceleration when the Phazer was stock (probably due to the short track setback)
2. slow to initiate roll in

Rode it back to back with a bone stock Phazer.

Thinking ski pressure is too high.

Not enough rear weight transfer under acceleration

Now thinking I'll drop the front mount hole 1" to decrease ski pressure

Also thinking I'll raise the mount hole in the rear bracket (stock Phazer had a much tighter clearance from track to muffler) I have plenty of bracket material to work with

When lowering the front hole, I may be able to reduce the setback-- if this is case, I will reduce the setback.

Mtn Tamer comes with smaller upper idler wheels, thinking of putting larger stock upper idler wheels back in (after changing bearings)-- should be able to reduce the setback after that also.


Keep you posted with the results.

original mod listed above was terrible. Went through 5 different setups and settled on three inch setback with front arm mounted 1 1/4 lower-- this puts it off the mounting bracket inside the tunnel but it is going through the Betterboards so it is plenty strong. Rear mount is three inches back and about even (heightwise) with where the Timbersled mount was located. Much lighter ski pressure, easier roll in when initiating pow turns, way more flickable. When combined with 153" `track and 17/46 gearing it is a killer combination. Goes where a stock Phazer could only dream of.
 

Nice murph. Sounds like you got it dialed in and the 3" back and an inch or so low in the front mount is the ticket. I'm glad to hear you didn't ultimately lose the roll and dive. That is what makes this sled. I'm surprised how just that little change of placement of the skid completely changed the ride.
 
Sorry for lifting an old thread but good info, I got the template for a rear bracket but wondering if I need to strengthen the front. Some do some don't?
 
I think as long as your front stays on the original backer plate then you should be ok. Mine was still on it, and i have not had any ill effects, and i don't see any problems coming.
 
If it's the read bracket I already have it, looking at the front and Im thinking I wont need one? Backing plate goes down to below the two "top" rivets and by the looks of it going back 3" and down 1" will but me on the backing plate?
 
I have 2008 Phazer MTX. I was just searching for what is the max lug height I could put in when I came across this post. This is a great post.

Does anyone still have the rear bracket templet they would be willing to send me?

How are you narrowing the tracks? Sharp knife? Hot knife?

I live here in Idaho and plan on trying lots of off trail riding. Any suggestions on which track to buy?

Thanks for the great info
 
last post to this thread was 2012.

they came with a 2" lug but worked better with 1.5" lug from what i saw. made an 09 rtx into an xtx with that track and it is a really fun sled off trail now. it was cheaper to buy the track from yamaha than get one cut down in my case.
 
All depends on what you do with drivers. I had a 151 camoplast challenger on mine. 9 tooth drivers. Think that lug height was 2.25 or 2.30. Also had a 162 camoplast challenger extreme 2.5 lug with 7 tooth 3 inch pitch drivers. Pretty much anything is doable if you put the time and research in
 
Back to the top for 2022.
Does anyone have a rear drop bracket template they could send me?
Thanks!
 


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