11800 mi and plan to keep the Phazer for that many more so it has come time for a full restoration. Starting at front.Balljoints which had the two piece aftermarket races were bagged out along with upper joints. Also had a bent upper left a-arm that I couldnt bend back.Also needed a filter change. Found a crack in lower oiltank mount so fixing that also.
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Found something to add to the Phazer factory changes thread. The upper balljoints from 07 which I did the handling mod of making them shorter the factory must have thought worked well since the newer joints are exactly the same length as the modified ones! Wonder if the Nytro guys know that? Learned that mod from them. Cool. I didnt have to cut them in the Lathe.
Stock/Old modified ones
Stock/Old modified ones
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APEX 06
TY 4 Stroke God
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Looks like fun and I see that left is still working good. lol
Yes! My old knees wont take the crouching on floor anymore. Thankful for lift everytime I use it.
Ruggybuggy
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I've pretty much have my 07 completely apart and found some interesting things for a sled with only 6,000 miles. Discovered tonight when installing my new track that the drive shaft bearing on the chaincase side is completely shot. On inspection I noticed that the bearing (I think it's a 6205) had one side that was sealed and the other side open. the open side was facing into the tunnel. Doesn't seem right. #2 and #3 are the defective parts.
Also skid needed the two upper idle wheels and all forward wheel. I completely replace the all the front bushing and two steering joints.
Also skid needed the two upper idle wheels and all forward wheel. I completely replace the all the front bushing and two steering joints.
I think Yamaha does that to keep contaminates from chain from getting in bearing. I have no idea why they just didnt use a double sealed bearing. We will see if mine is shot. I did replace both driveshaft bearings once already. 6000 mi isnt that bad for a bearing in my opinion.
Ruggybuggy
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You would think that the chain oil would be relatively clean. I'm almost tempted to put the bearing in the other way and let the oil get to it but I wonder if it would leak?
marpolsdofer
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When I did a complete restore on my 79 yz 250. I replaced the bearing in the gear case halves when I was looking for the bearings under its bearing number none of them matched. The size matched but not the style some had dual row bearings, one side partly sealed, both sides open, one side had special retainers on the out side only why to get the right bearing was to get the Kayo bearing.
The bearing used in this app is sealed from the other side but the casing on the bearing is to keep large participial's from entering the bearing but allowing oil in. They may have thought a oiled bearing would last longer then a greased one (heck now they make graphite bearings no grease or oil) and the grease may have gotten thick in the cold.
The oil may stay relatively clean but as most have seen it snowmobile gear cases tend to get moister build up in it witch will break down the oil and cause oxidation just like how fuel can enter oil or the combination gasses making it acidic. Some of this has to deal with the base used in the oil like or a incomplete seal.
The biggest failure for bearing in this application is oxidation you cant see and contaminates. In engines its lack or oil and contaminates.
If you was to put it in back words you can run the risk or a bearing failer from the wear of the chain, sprocket, and tentioner particles getting stuck in the bearing.
Replace the seal and the bearing.
The bearing used in this app is sealed from the other side but the casing on the bearing is to keep large participial's from entering the bearing but allowing oil in. They may have thought a oiled bearing would last longer then a greased one (heck now they make graphite bearings no grease or oil) and the grease may have gotten thick in the cold.
The oil may stay relatively clean but as most have seen it snowmobile gear cases tend to get moister build up in it witch will break down the oil and cause oxidation just like how fuel can enter oil or the combination gasses making it acidic. Some of this has to deal with the base used in the oil like or a incomplete seal.
The biggest failure for bearing in this application is oxidation you cant see and contaminates. In engines its lack or oil and contaminates.
If you was to put it in back words you can run the risk or a bearing failer from the wear of the chain, sprocket, and tentioner particles getting stuck in the bearing.
Replace the seal and the bearing.
Ruggybuggy
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Interesting, my thnking is that if it had a good flow of oi it would last longer. The chain case is a sealed component so oil should stay relatively clean. Think of a transfer case in a truck, pretty much works similar and all the bearings are open. The cases are both aluminum running a chain and gears and experience similar environmental conditions. Change the oil once a year and everthing should be good. I have always run a synthetic ATF in my chain cases with good results. My only concern with putting the bearing in backwards is that there would be too much oil in the bearing and the seal on the tunnel side would leak.
It wont leak. Many put it in opposite but truly there is no difference in wear unless something from the chain gets in bearing.Then you will have both a bad chain and shaft bearing. Might be difference in getting home or not. Only reason they did it. Probably came out of some of the chaincase issues the Apex guys used to have.
Ruggybuggy
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So I noticed that the upper bearing (jackshaft bearing) is put in with the seal outside and balls running in chain case oil. My upper bearing is in good shape so I think ill switch the lower bearing around. Cannondale27, you have over 11,000 miles on your sled, ever change the upper bearing? If you have to do the lower one are you going to reverse it?
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Cannondale, that sled can't need much. It looked pretty sweet and ran great last March.
G.B.
G.B.
marpolsdofer
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Putting it backward it still will work but if it has a plate on it with small holes or slots this allows wear partials from getting in the bearing witch could lock up leaving you stuck or create extreme wear.
I looked at my 07 bearing and its a stranded dual side open.
It may be sealed but I have always found moister to get in the one way or another. Last time it happens it cam from the fill level plug. The hole the level went in it was leaking past there. Some bases are hygroscopic witch means it tending to absorb moisture from the air. Like dot 5.1 break fluid is like this and is reason why it good for racing apps but not conventional use. Same with kart engines using this bases they are not suitable for combustion. However people change them out ever week with less then 30 to one hour operation so nobody notices it. The key to fixing that is not using that base.
I looked at my 07 bearing and its a stranded dual side open.
It may be sealed but I have always found moister to get in the one way or another. Last time it happens it cam from the fill level plug. The hole the level went in it was leaking past there. Some bases are hygroscopic witch means it tending to absorb moisture from the air. Like dot 5.1 break fluid is like this and is reason why it good for racing apps but not conventional use. Same with kart engines using this bases they are not suitable for combustion. However people change them out ever week with less then 30 to one hour operation so nobody notices it. The key to fixing that is not using that base.
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