Ruggybuggy said:So I noticed that the upper bearing (jackshaft bearing) is put in with the seal outside and balls running in chain case oil. My upper bearing is in good shape so I think ill switch the lower bearing around. Cannondale27, you have over 11,000 miles on your sled, ever change the upper bearing? If you have to do the lower one are you going to reverse it?
No never changed either Jackshaft bearing. Just regreased clutch side regularily. I did do the lowers. I dont remember whether I switched it around or not. Will need to either look at some old posts or just wait till I get to that point in the rebuild. Should be next weekend. Whichever way its in there now is the way its going back in. Marp I do remember one side of mine being sealed with a rubber seal.
Ruggybuggy
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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cannondale27 said:Ruggybuggy said:So I noticed that the upper bearing (jackshaft bearing) is put in with the seal outside and balls running in chain case oil. My upper bearing is in good shape so I think ill switch the lower bearing around. Cannondale27, you have over 11,000 miles on your sled, ever change the upper bearing? If you have to do the lower one are you going to reverse it?
Should be next weekend. Whichever way its in there now is the way its going back in. Marp I do remember one side of mine being sealed with a rubber seal.
Let me know when you get a chance to look at it. Curious which way you installed it and how it's doing. You are correct, one side sealed and one side open. My bearing had the balls rusting which caused the failure. If any water gets past the tunnel seal it has a straight shot right to the unlubed open bearing.
marpolsdofer
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Mine just had a seal on the jack shaft side track side witch stop water, dirt extra from coming in and oil from going out. My stock bearing there is a full open but they might have changed them on later models to with a steal or plastic part cover on the chain case side that will allow oil to flow but stop partials from getting stuck in the bearing.
If the bearing was up more then might not need it but since its close to the bottom its easy to get metal shaving stuck in it.
A fully greased and sealed bearing would stop this but it present it own challenges.
If the bearing was up more then might not need it but since its close to the bottom its easy to get metal shaving stuck in it.
A fully greased and sealed bearing would stop this but it present it own challenges.
Dug in a bit more. Decided to change the 12,000 mi plugs. The coils fought me a little but everything was well sealed under them. Plugs are burning perfectly. They are worn though so I am happy I finally did it. I am confident in saying you dont need to touch your plugs for about 12,000 miles.Take that 2 stroke guys!
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cannondale27 said:Found something to add to the Phazer factory changes thread. The upper balljoints from 07 which I did the handling mod of making them shorter the factory must have thought worked well since the newer joints are exactly the same length as the modified ones! Wonder if the Nytro guys know that? Learned that mod from them. Cool. I didnt have to cut them in the Lathe.
Stock/Old modified ones
Do you have the part numbers for the shorter ball joints? Pictures won't load and I can't find them in the parts catalog from my iPad..
8GK-23549-00 is the number. Keep in mind this may only be shorter than the stock 07 joints.
cannondale27 said:8GK-23549-00 is the number. Keep in mind this may only be shorter than the stock 07 joints.
I have an 07 mtn light with what appears to be stock joints.. there in need of replacements and my steering is on the heavy side so it won't hurt
Just remember if they are shorter on yours you will have to adjust the toe. Something you may want to check either way.
Donuts and Manifold along with the clamps were still tight not leaking and doing fine. Donuts obviously need replacing but were not leaking after 2 seasons I believe. These were newest from Yamaha. These will be replaced. I will use stock since a guy should be checking rest of exhaust anyway every season.
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My front tunnel block off is been hammered to heck by the Ice or something. Many rivets are loose in this area both stock and ones I put in. They will all be replaced. I believe that having the exhaust totally protected from snow and ice is reason it and donuts are still doing great after all these miles.
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Ruggybuggy
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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cannondale27 said:Here is how it looks now.
Hey, you got to take the windscreen off. They sure do strip do quickly to the point where you start to think "how the hell am I going to get this back together".
Ruggybuggy
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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- 2007 Phazer FX 144
cannondale27 said:Top Heat Shield has been reduced to nothing but powder. This was replaced 2 seasons ago. Is expensive and is garbage. Need to find a solution to this since it is a heat shield and I am running a fully closed tunnel. Not sure what to do here.
Do you think wrapping the pipes in heat tape would protect the heat shield ?
marpolsdofer
TY 4 Stroke Guru
cannondale27 said:Top Heat Shield has been reduced to nothing but powder. This was replaced 2 seasons ago. Is expensive and is garbage. Need to find a solution to this since it is a heat shield and I am running a fully closed tunnel. Not sure what to do here.
There was some heat shield I bought on ebay few months ago at pretty good price. I used it on my dirt bike to keep my after market pipe from melting my plastics as the side panel sits right on it. So the the heat shield is sitting right on the pipe adhered to the plastic. It holding up really well. Bikers use this stuff to protect there plastics and I have not melt sports yet and it touching.
If you want I can send you some cheap. I will put a photo up.
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