Phazer Refresh

[marpolsdofer]

It fiberglass and will stick right to anything.

 

[cannondale27]

I dont know Marp it is red hot in that area. Much hotter than at muffler. I am thinking some of the stuff used in Pellet stoves and I am going to sandwich it between two of these heat shields so even if it breaks apart it will stay.

 

[marpolsdofer]

Its not on the muffler its on the pipe. I have a vintage bike so the pipe comes up right next to you knee. The after market pipe is bigger then stock and was touching plastic and causing it to melt so I put this stuff there. No melting so far and the shield is holding up. Its a old school MX bike so it stay in high RPM. Pipe gets pretty hot and like I said biker use this stuff to keep them from melting stuff.
However most will add the wrap then this.
I think this stuff was like $35 for a 3'x1'.
This stuff was said to be rated at 1000F

 

[Ruggybuggy]

Do you remember the Ebay seller?

 

[marpolsdofer]

Yea it was calibikerclub. He has a few others with header wrap, stainless steal cable zip ties, and head shield.
He does not have this stuff anymore I think (from searching his store). What I got was the best stuff he had at the time. The stuff he has listed now is cheaper and maybe thinner.

 

[Mooseman]

Try Pegasus Auto Racing. They have different types as well. Some for direct wrap around the exhaust pipe, others to protect stuff near it as a heat shield. It ain't cheap though.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group ... EATBARRIER

 

[Ruggybuggy]

It's not priced too bad. 12"X 12" is $12 bucks.

 

[kennyspec]

Found something to add to the Phazer factory changes thread. The upper balljoints from 07 which I did the handling mod of making them shorter the factory must have thought worked well since the newer joints are exactly the same length as the modified ones! Wonder if the Nytro guys know that? Learned that mod from them. Cool. I didnt have to cut them in the Lathe.

Stock/Old modified ones

I believe the distance tou want to measure is from the centre of the ball joint hole to the edge of the casting. The shaft may be the same length but the distance from the ball joint hole to casting is what affects the camber.

 

[cannondale27]

Dang I hate being wrong but you are correct. After investigating further it is just the threaded shaft that is longer. I have no idea why they would do that? I couldnt figure out a good way accurately to measure it but from shoulder to ball they are the same or close enough not to matter. Sorry if this caused any to go buy the new ones.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

So I thought the point on buying the new BJ's was to give more negative camber? If they are the same distance from the centre of the ball to the shoulder how does it accomplish this? Sorry for the question if I'm missing something.

 

[cannondale27]

You didnt miss anything. They wont change a thing. Longer threaded end fooled me. If you want more camber they will still have to be modded in a lathe. I bought the new joints because mine were shot. Now I have to pull them back out and do the mod.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

How much do you remove from the shoulder? I just installed new uppers and have a friend who has his own lathe.

 

[cannondale27]

2.5mm 0r .100 in. Like I said before you will have to reset your toe and I really didnt notice much from doing that mod.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

If you really didn't notice much of a change why are you pulling the BJ's back out to do the mod?

 

[cannondale27]

Because my handling was perfect and I dont want to change a thing. Originally when I did the mod I believe I did other changes at same time. The joint mod didnt seem to help anything but it didnt hurt anything either so I will do it. Not a big deal and I have a Lathe so its easy.