Phazer Trouble

[Dalton]

Hey guys, I came here last time when I had troubles with my phazer and got awesome help now I have another issue.

Was getting stuff out and ready to be worked on and one of which is my 2007 Yamaha Phazer.

She started right up, I let her warm up for a good while. Gave it some throttle etc.. Then went to get on it to actually move it and it killed.

Heres what happens, I turn the key once, computer turns on like normal but there is a ticking sound every half second.
I turn the key another to actually start the motor and there is a buzzing sound and it won't turn over at all.

I charged the battery that checks out. All connections are good on it.

All of the small fuses are good that are next to the battery, BUT, the bigger green fuse that says 40A on it, that is where the buzzing is coming from,
I can put my finger on it when I try to start the sled and feel the vibration from the buzzing.

I switched those out with my other phazer that runs, and it made no difference..

Any tips?

Thanks

 

[cannondale27]

Solenoid(starter relay) Its the one with the big batt cables on it. To check it jump the two posts on it together with a wrench. When you turn the key all the way you can feel or hear it click right?

This is assuming your battery is good. To be honest I suspect your battery. Only real test is a load test.

 

[Dalton]

Solenoid(starter relay) Its the one with the big batt cables on it. To check it jump the two posts on it together with a wrench. When you turn the key all the way you can feel or hear it click right?

This is assuming your battery is good. To be honest I suspect your battery. Only real test is a load test.

Is the Solenoid located next to the battery? I am not entirely sure where this is located.

 

[yamahas]

Solenoid(starter relay) Its the one with the big batt cables on it. To check it jump the two posts on it together with a wrench. When you turn the key all the way you can feel or hear it click right?

This is assuming your battery is good. To be honest I suspect your battery. Only real test is a load test.

X2

The solenoid is between the battery and the oil tank. 2 large cables on it held on by 8mm hex bolts.

 

[Dalton]

Solenoid(starter relay) Its the one with the big batt cables on it. To check it jump the two posts on it together with a wrench. When you turn the key all the way you can feel or hear it click right?

This is assuming your battery is good. To be honest I suspect your battery. Only real test is a load test.

X2

The solenoid is between the battery and the oil tank. 2 large cables on it held on by 8mm hex bolts.

I tapped on the solenoid and turned the key and the fuel pump kicked on. Then went to turn it over and still made the same sound.

The buzzing and vibrating is DEFINITELY the solenoid. Does this mean the solenoid is bad?

We placed a wrench on the two posts on the solenoid and it still didn't start.

 

[cannondale27]

Did it turn over? If not Battery is the likely suspect. Load test it.

 

[Dalton]

Did it turn over? If not Battery is the likely suspect. Load test it.

It did not turn over.

The battery does hold a charge though.

So I take it the solenoid is not the issue even though its making all that weird vibration and buzzing?

 

[cannondale27]

Do this. Put your voltmeter on the battery and turn the key to start. What happens to the Voltage reading? If it drops to below 11 volts the battery is junk. That is a load test. Shops usually do same thing with a actual tester usually free.

What happens is the battery will still put out 12 v and accept a charge but if a cell or two in the battery is dead the battery will not put out 12v under load. This can happen to a battery at any time from a jolt,internal corrosion,broken or touching plates etc. It just happens.

 

[Dalton]

Do this. Put your voltmeter on the battery and turn the key to start. What happens to the Voltage reading? If it drops to below 11 volts the battery is junk. That is a load test. Shops usually do same thing with a actual tester usually free.

What happens is the battery will still put out 12 v and accept a charge but if a cell or two in the battery is dead the battery will not put out 12v under load. This can happen to a battery at any time from a jolt,internal corrosion,broken or touching plates etc. It just happens.

Did exactly what you said above and the volts dropped like a rock when I went to start it.

Looks like its just the battery like you suspected. Thank you very much for help! It's really appreciated.

I called a local batteries plus and sounds like I can get a new one for $105 plus 2 year warranty with it. Price sound about right?

 

[09phazergtWI]

That sounds about right. I just paid around $95 for a YUASA replacement from my local dealer (they also installed the electrolyte and charged it). My '09 was starting to turn over a tad slow last winter on the end part of a cranking cycle, you could hear the starter RPM dip, so why chance it during the coldest weather...

 

[APEX 06]

Another easy way to test the battery is to jump the sled with a car/truck (turned off). It should start and run fine as long as it is hooked up to the car, take it off and the sled will die.

 

[cannondale27]

Hey no problem. Batteries can really cause some headaches.