Pics Of Battery Relocation, Bracket Removal, General CleanUp

treewhacker

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Thought I would share this with any one interested. After these simple mods, I can now remove the airbox and remove the oil filter in seconds. I found the stock battery box to be very annoying, heavy and in the way of everything up front. This is the lightweight battery I used all winter last year with no problems, started fine at -20. I also ended up removing the long ground strap (heavy) that connected to starter mount bolts, used a short cable right to existing bolt on bulkhead at new battery location. As close as I can figure, this saved me about 13 pounds all together, more if you use K&N Filters. PS, Dave Conopaski called me tonight, he has some pics from the shows in Washinton on disk, I'll get some on here tomorrow. I'm anxious to see them...
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ITS about time you posted those pics!! VERY NICE WORK!!

I took your advice and bought that battery also(although my batter didnt have the same connecters as yours)



I will start working on relocating the battery tonight!! THANKS
 
Great Pictures Treewhacker! I'd check your carbs though. It looks like a large mouse has stuffed them full of rags. I think that's a good predictor of long, long winter. :)
Geez, there's always something else to buy. No wonder I can't seem to save up enough money for a turbo. If it's not a white knuckle pipe it's a water temp gauge or an ATACC or a track or ect, ect.
Thanks for the pictures and tell him I said Hi. I'm curious what he thought about the post of him being a folk hero :) Powder Blue
 
Hey Treewacker!!!! could you tell me the output specs on that batt. compared to the factory one? Very nice job! Thank you for sharing!!!
 
The battery is a 7amp hour battery not sure on cranking amps but does crank the engine over easily, NOT AS EASY AS THE OLD ONE!!
 
Mr Sled, that's fine with me if you want to do that. After all, that's what this site is all about, helping and sharing ideas. Thanks for the positive input guys, makes it all woth it. The battery is 70 ah, but being it's a UPS intended battery, they don't list CCA specs. It cranked my sled at -20 just fine, and once when I tipped the sled over I had to crank it quite a while to get it started. For $20.00 you can afford to replace it every year or two. There may be better batteries out there, I didn't look around a lot. Welterracer, I had to modify the connectors by epoxying a 90 degree metal bracket next to the connectors (For rigidity) This battery fits nicely in the bulkhead, just fits through the front opening. I did the whole project here in 6 hours. Here's the battery, most battery specialty stores have them on hand.
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Treewhacker. I did the same yesterday but mounted the battery in a different location than you. Did you have to make a special bracket to hold the battery in place? If so, do you have pictures. I sure would like to put my battery in a different place than where I put it. I like your idea a lot.
 
Black Sabbath
Just bend a piece of aluminum so it fits over the battery and bend another 90 so you can put 1/4" Riv Nuts in for the bolts coming from bottom of bulkhead. Like I said, this is a temporary bracket, I will make a new bracket from diamond plate aluminum. This battery just fits through the hole in front. Its much lower in the chassis which is another advantage in eliminating top heaviness.
 
Thanks for the great info. I do want to place the battery where you did to have the lower center of gravity. Makes sense to me. Thanks.

J
 


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