revster
TY 4 Stroke God
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- 2009 Yamaha Nytro RTX SE
WOW great idea Allen.
birkebeiner
Lifetime Member
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- 2015 Yamaha SR Viper X-TX
Nice project Allen!!
Any reason for the West Coast Sled front end instead of Timbersled's Barkbuster??
Any reason for the West Coast Sled front end instead of Timbersled's Barkbuster??
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birkebeiner said:Nice project Allen!!
Any reason for the West Coast Sled front end instead of Timbersled's Barkbuster??
I found a killer deal on Ebay on the West Coast Sled front end. I have Timbersled front ends on several FX Nytro's and they work excellent, just trying something different!
birkebeiner
Lifetime Member
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Good idea, and why not
Keep us posted on this build!
Keep us posted on this build!
birkebeiner
Lifetime Member
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- 2015 Yamaha SR Viper X-TX
What's going on with this sled? Have to project stopped or just haven't had time yet..?
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Just waiting for some spare time to dedicate to it! Busy working on turbo parts and sleds for other customers right now!
snowpromod
Lifetime Member
Allen,
Will a Vector gauge plug right into the factory Nytro harness? What about an Apex gauge - like the Apex style gauge much better than the Nytro.
Thanks
Will a Vector gauge plug right into the factory Nytro harness? What about an Apex gauge - like the Apex style gauge much better than the Nytro.
Thanks
- Joined
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- www.ulmerracing.com
The Vector gauge will plug right in with no modifications. The only thing that will not function properly is the clock. I believe the Apex gauge will plug in as well, but I believe the RPM may be off slightly. Do a search for "gauge relocation" or something similar in the FX Nytro forum, there is a post in there.
yamaha_nisse
Extreme
Awsome build!
Will the new style vector gauge work with the older vectors?
2005-2008 aswell?
Will the new style vector gauge work with the older vectors?
2005-2008 aswell?
towerrigger
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Build looks good Allen, I'm glad I wasn't the only one that thought the MPI tunnel cooler instructions need work. Are you going to be installing the front rad or leaving it out?
- Joined
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Finally getting some time to continue working on this project.
Motor with JE pistons & Carrillo rods installed!
Also installed ARP head studs. Be careful on the pto top side stud, if you install it too far it can hit and damage the water pump impeller! I measured the depth with a calipers and then measured the length of the stud and subtracted the depth from it. Thanks to Hurrican Dave for telling me to watch out for that head stud! I then used a calipers to set how far it screwed in as well. I installed the head studs with red loctite on the threads into the block and then just slightly snugged them with an allen wrench. Note both studs on the pto side will stick out further than the rest of the studs.
In the process of putting the Air Frame running boards on, this was a 2008 chassis, so the running board angle will change as well.
Motor with JE pistons & Carrillo rods installed!
Also installed ARP head studs. Be careful on the pto top side stud, if you install it too far it can hit and damage the water pump impeller! I measured the depth with a calipers and then measured the length of the stud and subtracted the depth from it. Thanks to Hurrican Dave for telling me to watch out for that head stud! I then used a calipers to set how far it screwed in as well. I installed the head studs with red loctite on the threads into the block and then just slightly snugged them with an allen wrench. Note both studs on the pto side will stick out further than the rest of the studs.
In the process of putting the Air Frame running boards on, this was a 2008 chassis, so the running board angle will change as well.
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This sled started out as a 2008 RTX model, so it is a little different than an MTX. I have a MTX to convert over to the newer style Air Frame boards as well which I will be doing after this project is done.
I left about 6" of lip in the front so I can rivet the Air Frame boards down to the lip, like Skinz wants you to originally. In the middle I completely cut off the lip as it was hanging substantially lower than my new running board angle was. I will rivet into the inside tube of the Air Frame boards from the side, instead of the bottom here. In the back I will machine an aluminum mount to tie the rear portion of the Air Frame boards, tunnel, and rear arm suspension bolt all into one unit (you can see the section of tunnel I left yet).
I left about 6" of lip in the front so I can rivet the Air Frame boards down to the lip, like Skinz wants you to originally. In the middle I completely cut off the lip as it was hanging substantially lower than my new running board angle was. I will rivet into the inside tube of the Air Frame boards from the side, instead of the bottom here. In the back I will machine an aluminum mount to tie the rear portion of the Air Frame boards, tunnel, and rear arm suspension bolt all into one unit (you can see the section of tunnel I left yet).
I love the cooler in the tunnel...why cant they make something like that to fit a shorty...ice build up would be non existant. The build looks nice Allen! Are you going with big boost?
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A few more pictures, running boards are finished on this sled, just waiting on some other parts to finish it up yet. Ask if you have any questions.
Inside showing rivet line.
Under the front showing the lip I left, I did heat up the lip and formed it up tight against the running board.
How it looks finished.
Running board angle is about the same as the rear tunnel extesion and identical to the 2010 + MTX sleds.
Traction screws and all installed.
7 tooth 3.0 pitch Avid drivers
Thermostat housing modified to have a temp probe installed directly into it.
Clutches all aligned and on, just have the setup the secondary clutch, primary is set and all ready to go.
Gussets added to strengthen the 2008 subframe.
Inside showing rivet line.
Under the front showing the lip I left, I did heat up the lip and formed it up tight against the running board.
How it looks finished.
Running board angle is about the same as the rear tunnel extesion and identical to the 2010 + MTX sleds.
Traction screws and all installed.
7 tooth 3.0 pitch Avid drivers
Thermostat housing modified to have a temp probe installed directly into it.
Clutches all aligned and on, just have the setup the secondary clutch, primary is set and all ready to go.
Gussets added to strengthen the 2008 subframe.
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 5,348
- Location
- Menno, SD
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- www.ulmerracing.com
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- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha SR Viper LTX, 2014 Yamaha SR Viper RTX SE, 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 162 (turbo), 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 153
- LOCATION
- Menno, SD
- WEBSITE
- www.ulmerracing.com
Front a-frames, spindles, shocks all on.
Showing how I routed the large tunnel cooler hoses with the radiator delte kit.
Skinz Air Frame hood. This comes in 3 "sections" and then gets riveted together as one piece.
Then you must stretch the hood material over the hood frame and strap it down as well as cut out the holes for the dsuz fasteners to go through. I used a small drill bit slightly larger than the hole and used the back side to cut the material.
Then I installed the Skinz windshield.
Showing how I routed the large tunnel cooler hoses with the radiator delte kit.
Skinz Air Frame hood. This comes in 3 "sections" and then gets riveted together as one piece.
Then you must stretch the hood material over the hood frame and strap it down as well as cut out the holes for the dsuz fasteners to go through. I used a small drill bit slightly larger than the hole and used the back side to cut the material.
Then I installed the Skinz windshield.
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