For anyone interested here you go. Think about your secondary clutch and how it aligns with your primary. Traditionaly, Yamaha has installed there secondarys to be "self aligning". While it makes sense, does it actually work? hmmmm.
The engine in the RX-1 is a solid mounted engine, meaning it cant move lateraly towards the secondary drive shaft under acceleration loads. The idea of a "floating secondary" is that the driven clutch will move inwards or outwards on the drive shaft to compensate when the PTO side of the engine moves rearward under acceleration loads. Thats a mouthfull. However, think about that a minute. If your engine doesnt move, why on gods earth do you need slop in your secondary? To allow for larger tolerances at assmebly time? To make it less labor intensive for the dealer? My guess is both. Ski-Doo, Cat, and now Polaris all use "Locked" secondarys and they have engines that do move beacuse of the rubber in the motor mounts. With the installation of a good engine tensioner, you can run a locked secondary on any sled. Racers have been doing if for years, and now its trickling into the manufacturers. The Key is to make sure your alignment is absolutely perfect. Ill cover that in a bit. This has been bugging me for sometime, so I reasearched it further. I talked to many racers, dealers, manufacturers and wrote a letter to Snow Tech and got a response from "Dear Ralph" in there first issue of 03/04. He agreed with this theory and mentioned theres a reason certain manufacturers and now running "Locked Secondarys".
For those of you completely lost, go lift the hood of your sled, put both hands on the secondary clutch and push in, now pull out. Notice it Moves? Thats "Float".
Yamaha uses a splined drive shaft and the inside of the secondary is also splined. The fit is excellent, however in theory, it would be impossible for a clutch to "self align" under hard acceleration and hard brake loads. There is too much side pressure on the jackshaft to allow the secondary to move. So why do you need it? And why is Yamaha the only company to still "float" there secondarys? hmmmmmm, Now on to the steps to properly align your clutches and to insure better belt life and better performance.
1. Remove Drive belt
2. Get a 18" piece of steel straigh edge (or mechanics ruler), make sure its straight.
3. Open up the sheaves on the secondary and slide the straight edge all the way down to the bottom of the sheaves.
4. Let the secondary close so it pinches the straight edge making sure the other end is resting on the center primary bushing.
5. Take a look at where the straight edge comes to rest in the primary.
6. You want it perfectly centered on the shiny part (where the belt rubs)
7. To move the straight edge outwards, Take the secondary off and add shims until you get the straight edge to come to rest perfectly centered in the primary. Usually about .040 to .080 are how far they are off.
In conclusion, you can do whatever you wish with your clutches. But if you want longer lasting belts, cooler running clutches, and better performing sleds, you may want to try this.
wheeehhhhwwww, i need a drink...BBY
The engine in the RX-1 is a solid mounted engine, meaning it cant move lateraly towards the secondary drive shaft under acceleration loads. The idea of a "floating secondary" is that the driven clutch will move inwards or outwards on the drive shaft to compensate when the PTO side of the engine moves rearward under acceleration loads. Thats a mouthfull. However, think about that a minute. If your engine doesnt move, why on gods earth do you need slop in your secondary? To allow for larger tolerances at assmebly time? To make it less labor intensive for the dealer? My guess is both. Ski-Doo, Cat, and now Polaris all use "Locked" secondarys and they have engines that do move beacuse of the rubber in the motor mounts. With the installation of a good engine tensioner, you can run a locked secondary on any sled. Racers have been doing if for years, and now its trickling into the manufacturers. The Key is to make sure your alignment is absolutely perfect. Ill cover that in a bit. This has been bugging me for sometime, so I reasearched it further. I talked to many racers, dealers, manufacturers and wrote a letter to Snow Tech and got a response from "Dear Ralph" in there first issue of 03/04. He agreed with this theory and mentioned theres a reason certain manufacturers and now running "Locked Secondarys".
For those of you completely lost, go lift the hood of your sled, put both hands on the secondary clutch and push in, now pull out. Notice it Moves? Thats "Float".
Yamaha uses a splined drive shaft and the inside of the secondary is also splined. The fit is excellent, however in theory, it would be impossible for a clutch to "self align" under hard acceleration and hard brake loads. There is too much side pressure on the jackshaft to allow the secondary to move. So why do you need it? And why is Yamaha the only company to still "float" there secondarys? hmmmmmm, Now on to the steps to properly align your clutches and to insure better belt life and better performance.
1. Remove Drive belt
2. Get a 18" piece of steel straigh edge (or mechanics ruler), make sure its straight.
3. Open up the sheaves on the secondary and slide the straight edge all the way down to the bottom of the sheaves.
4. Let the secondary close so it pinches the straight edge making sure the other end is resting on the center primary bushing.
5. Take a look at where the straight edge comes to rest in the primary.
6. You want it perfectly centered on the shiny part (where the belt rubs)
7. To move the straight edge outwards, Take the secondary off and add shims until you get the straight edge to come to rest perfectly centered in the primary. Usually about .040 to .080 are how far they are off.
In conclusion, you can do whatever you wish with your clutches. But if you want longer lasting belts, cooler running clutches, and better performing sleds, you may want to try this.
wheeehhhhwwww, i need a drink...BBY
ExTrEeMF7
Expert
that is a kick #*$&@ post man . so im confused can you explain it a little better pls
You gotta be kiddin marc even a dummy like me can understand that procedure Thanks BBY looks like a great way to do it. One question: I used a 15mm alignment tool when I did mine the other night and to get the right alignment I had to take the only spacer that was on the inner side off which left about a 1/16 of slop in the secondary should I put spacers on the outside to lock the secondary down or should I just let it ride :?: Is not having a spacer there an issue :?:
Thanks
Thanks BBY looks like a great way to do it. One question: I used a 15mm alignment tool when I did mine the other night and to get the right alignment I had to take the only spacer that was on the inner side off which left about a 1/16 of slop in the secondary should I put spacers on the outside to lock the secondary down or should I just let it ride :?: Is not having a spacer there an issue :?: Thanks
Convert, I dont use alignment tools. I only use the straight edge. You can lock your secondary by adding spacers to the outside of the secondary, but just make sure you are in perfect alignment (with a straight edge) if your going to lock it down. Otherwise your going to chew belts like crazy...BBY
RX1 Yooper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
When you are accelerating, the clutch can't self align.
If you use a straight edge, shouldn't you align one side of the straight edge with the middle of the drive clutch, instead of centering it? An extreme example is, if you used a 1/2 inch straight edge, you would be 1/4 inch off.
If you use a straight edge, shouldn't you align one side of the straight edge with the middle of the drive clutch, instead of centering it? An extreme example is, if you used a 1/2 inch straight edge, you would be 1/4 inch off.
neonphil
Expert
after you lock it down you can use this
External Belt Deflection Adjuster
External Belt Deflection Adjuster
neonphil
Expert
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
BBY nice post !!!
WHy is it when you post it comes out great!! When i post i sound like a dumb #*$&@!! LOL
WHy is it when you post it comes out great!! When i post i sound like a dumb #*$&@!! LOL
Thanks BBY I'll find a real thin straight edge and try it your way
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Convert, I found the exact same things you did with my alignment tool. I had to pull off the only shim on the inside of the secondary. I do have a piece of 1/4" square stock about 30" long that I use as well. When I use the straight rod I seem to remember measuring to the inside of the inside of the inside primary sheave and adjusting my secondary to get the required 25/64th or what ever it was.
Honestly I like the alignment tools better. I have one for center to center that drops over the primary and secondary shaft and the 15mm offset on you mentioned above.
I guess the thing to note is at least we are looking at our alignment where a good portion never touch theirs. I convinced a well setup stock sled will compete with a poorly setup mod sled any day. Powder Blue
Honestly I like the alignment tools better. I have one for center to center that drops over the primary and secondary shaft and the 15mm offset on you mentioned above.
I guess the thing to note is at least we are looking at our alignment where a good portion never touch theirs. I convinced a well setup stock sled will compete with a poorly setup mod sled any day. Powder Blue
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Very nice Matt... I will add that to the Tech Pages .....
After reading that and doing a spell check...LMAO...you spell like Marc... :twisted:
.....After reading that and doing a spell check...LMAO...you spell like Marc... :twisted:
RX1 Yooper, No, you center it taking into consideration the thickness of the straight edge and the center of that point is your mark...BBY
MrSled said:
That's funniest thing I have read all day. :lol:
ONE PROBLEM
By locking down your secondary you put a big strain on the Jackshaft and bearings. The RX-1 makes nice torque and if you use NOS or a Turbo it will make even more. The little you gain isn't worth the risk of pounding the drive line harder then nessasary. Yamaha Has a reason for everything they do. The secondary floots to keep your bearings alive!!!!!!!!!!!
If your willing to except the risks then locking it down is ok. It's not going to fly apart it will just wear faster. Both ways are good. the nice thing about locking it down and using a belt deflection adjuster is you can change your starting gear ratio on the fly for race conditions!!!!!!
jtssrx
By locking down your secondary you put a big strain on the Jackshaft and bearings. The RX-1 makes nice torque and if you use NOS or a Turbo it will make even more. The little you gain isn't worth the risk of pounding the drive line harder then nessasary. Yamaha Has a reason for everything they do. The secondary floots to keep your bearings alive!!!!!!!!!!!
If your willing to except the risks then locking it down is ok. It's not going to fly apart it will just wear faster. Both ways are good. the nice thing about locking it down and using a belt deflection adjuster is you can change your starting gear ratio on the fly for race conditions!!!!!!
jtssrx
1xr
Expert
I asually use a alignment bar to check top and bottom of clutches to see if there is any angle of miss alignment like in twist. I don't know how you would adjust the engine if it was out. My vmax-4 was easy, shim one side or the other and put a little load on the engine tourque link. rx1 has rubber mounts don't it, so some engine tourque flex could happen?
