Putting on head shim...what else? (APEX)

TurboMatt

Pro
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
181
Reaction score
0
Points
226
Location
Watertown, WI
Coming soon I'm going to be tearing my Apex motor down to install my head shim & ARP head studs for my coming turbo project. Actually, I've decided the route I'm going to take is to use 3 headgaskets as the shim. I'm not here to discuss that though, tons have used stacked gaskets and not had problems.
Question I have is: What other gaskets and seals should be replaced while I have it all apart? Is the valve cover gasket reuseable?
 
Your next post this winter will be about leaking head gaskets. Think about it, solid shim or stacked gaskets. everybodys kits you buy comes with shim not stacked gaskets. Shims are only $65.00
 
Before head shims came out, thats all we did was stack headgaskets. My RX1 running from 5 to 20lbs over the years, 3 different turbos, upgrading them. A bunch of crappy front mount headers(left of center ones). Stacked gaskets still in there, close to 4000kms. No leaks, know of of @ least 6 more turbo sleds running stacked. The steel gasket seems to stand up better than the alu shim. Good luck to what ever you go with. You might want the cam tensior gasket, 2 orings that are on the coolant tubes in that are in the top of the head.
 
FLYBYU said:
Your next post this winter will be about leaking head gaskets. Think about it, solid shim or stacked gaskets. everybodys kits you buy comes with shim not stacked gaskets. Shims are only $65.00
DOUBTFUL.

It's my understanding that most of the shims require you to peel a stock gasket apart and put the shim between the halves. That's not 'one solid gasket either. There may be some others out there that are one solid though.
That's enough of that.
I am not here to discuss head shims. Please start another topic if you wanna do that. Please keep this on topic.
I'm just wondering what else I should replace.
 
On the half moons on the cylinder head it's a good idea to pean some dimples in it with a punch, side by side and when you put your gasket on put some red locktite in the spots. I have seen them blow out with some high boost.
 
Running high boost without enough crank venting can cause the rubber gasket to pop.

While having the head off, please take your time to check and adjust valve clearances, on a boosted engine valve clarances should be in the upper half of the spec.

Also, adjust cam timing while in there, when going with a thicker headgasket, shim or whatever, your cams move further away from the crank changing the cam angles or lobe centers. The exhaust cam is moving in the preferrable direction but the intake came does not. You can grind the holes in the intake cam gear to move your cam back to the stock setting. If you go with 3 gaskets I can send you the MCX install manual, it's all in there.
 
rxrider said:
Running high boost without enough crank venting can cause the rubber gasket to pop.

While having the head off, please take your time to check and adjust valve clearances, on a boosted engine valve clarances should be in the upper half of the spec.

Also, adjust cam timing while in there, when going with a thicker headgasket, shim or whatever, your cams move further away from the crank changing the cam angles or lobe centers. The exhaust cam is moving in the preferrable direction but the intake came does not. You can grind the holes in the intake cam gear to move your cam back to the stock setting. If you go with 3 gaskets I can send you the MCX install manual, it's all in there.
What is the proper procedure for checking/adjusting valve clearances? I've never really done that before.
 
You can read about it in my rxrider's turbo garage thread.
You will find a link in the index at page one

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=47473

It's all in there, if you have further questions feel free to ask.

Jan-O
rxrider
 


Back
Top