Who is interested? I will not valve any of these shocks softer since I believe #1 is borderline dangerously soft already. But I know many will never use #3 since it is hardcore stiff. Please take this poll so I can guage need and interest. Thank You!
Based on interest I will have the part I mod remade which would allow Modding of any and all positions separately without effecting any of the others.
For now I modded position 3 in a QS3R front shock to be softer especially at lower speeds under 35mph or so. This Dyno Chart shows that I was successful. Only position 3 was effected. The comparison stock shock and the modded shocks were both freshly rebuilt. I can do this mod to position 3 now for $20 with a refresh which is $30. If someone still thinks 3 is too stiff after this mod I can bring it closer to 2. This is a noticeable difference already. The sled or shock can be pushed up and down where stock it would not even move.
Based on interest I will have the part I mod remade which would allow Modding of any and all positions separately without effecting any of the others.
For now I modded position 3 in a QS3R front shock to be softer especially at lower speeds under 35mph or so. This Dyno Chart shows that I was successful. Only position 3 was effected. The comparison stock shock and the modded shocks were both freshly rebuilt. I can do this mod to position 3 now for $20 with a refresh which is $30. If someone still thinks 3 is too stiff after this mod I can bring it closer to 2. This is a noticeable difference already. The sled or shock can be pushed up and down where stock it would not even move.
Last edited:
FrozenTows4
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First off, I know very little to nothing about shock theory. Just what I've understand from you, my son who used to work for Fox, and Fox themselves.
I would be interested in how you would accomplish softening #3 without softening #1 since the clicker is fixed according to Fox.
I asked Fox to make 3 feel like 2, 2 feel like 1, and 1 feel like .75 or so for my Wife's sled. Fox said they could not do anything with the clicker, but would re-valve so she would have a nicer ride. Not sure what that means.
You must be planning on eliminating the clicker and replacing with a 24 click needle valve like the rebound adjuster on a QS3r? Again, I know nothing.
Next re-build will be going to you for sure, Cannodale, since you are more comfortable thinking outside the box than Fox.
I would be interested in how you would accomplish softening #3 without softening #1 since the clicker is fixed according to Fox.
I asked Fox to make 3 feel like 2, 2 feel like 1, and 1 feel like .75 or so for my Wife's sled. Fox said they could not do anything with the clicker, but would re-valve so she would have a nicer ride. Not sure what that means.
You must be planning on eliminating the clicker and replacing with a 24 click needle valve like the rebound adjuster on a QS3r? Again, I know nothing.
Next re-build will be going to you for sure, Cannodale, since you are more comfortable thinking outside the box than Fox.
Wannaviper
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Going from stock HPG's up front to QS3R's, my impression is that 2 is noticeably stiffer than the stock shocks, and 1 is noticeably softer than the stocks. I have used 3 very rarely because it is so stiff; however, I have used it. That having been said, I find that I am switching from 2-1 and 1-2 fairly regularly depending upon conditions, and I am very happy with the shocks.
BTP
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I use 1 and 2 most of the time. 1 could be a little stiffer, 2 is good all around setting and 3 is hard core big bumps. I could use a softer 3 and a stiffer 1. lol......
swampcat
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Sounds good for me also. QS3Rs.I use 1 and 2 most of the time. 1 could be a little stiffer, 2 is good all around setting and 3 is hard core big bumps. I could use a softer 3 and a stiffer 1. lol......
I will NOT eliminate the 3 position clicker. But based on interest I will tune each position seperatly or just mod 3 without effecting 1 and 2 which I have done already. Still stiffer than 2 but much closer. Frozen for your wife’s sled Valving and the clicker would need to be modded.First off, I know very little to nothing about shock theory. Just what I've understand from you, my son who used to work for Fox, and Fox themselves.
I would be interested in how you would accomplish softening #3 without softening #1 since the clicker is fixed according to Fox.
I asked Fox to make 3 feel like 2, 2 feel like 1, and 1 feel like .75 or so for my Wife's sled. Fox said they could not do anything with the clicker, but would re-valve so she would have a nicer ride. Not sure what that means.
You must be planning on eliminating the clicker and replacing with a 24 click needle valve like the rebound adjuster on a QS3r? Again, I know nothing.
Next re-build will be going to you for sure, Cannodale, since you are more comfortable thinking outside the box than Fox.
Sounds good for me also. QS3Rs.
Exactly my thoughts.I use 1 and 2 most of the time. 1 could be a little stiffer, 2 is good all around setting and 3 is hard core big bumps. I could use a softer 3 and a stiffer 1. lol......
Mtnviper
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My sled is a mountain sled so with that in mind, I've only used position 3 once or twice. Mainly on a smooth groomed trail with lots of corners and I wanted the sled to corner flatter. (which it does)
Otherwise I usually run
#1 off trail/mountain (#2 in the rear shock if it's whooped out)
#1 slow trail speeds
#2 moderate trail speeds
BTW Steve, still loving the re-valve
Otherwise I usually run
#1 off trail/mountain (#2 in the rear shock if it's whooped out)
#1 slow trail speeds
#2 moderate trail speeds
BTW Steve, still loving the re-valve
swrtxlr
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I usually start the weekend on 1. Switch to 2 late Saturday afternoon. Back to 1 if I can catch some freshly groomed trails Sunday morning, but always end up pulling in the garage on 2.
actionjack
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Thats interesting. This has always been my thought - #3 for perfect 1st tracks groomed trails for crispest "sports car" handling but I've never heard or read anyone else say it. #1 most of the time, #2 for whooped trails.My sled is a mountain sled so with that in mind, I've only used position 3 once or twice. Mainly on a smooth groomed trail with lots of corners and I wanted the sled to corner flatter. (which it does)
Otherwise I usually run
#1 off trail/mountain (#2 in the rear shock if it's whooped out)
#1 slow trail speeds
#2 moderate trail speeds
BTW Steve, still loving the re-valve
stevewithOCD
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I had mine mine re-valved and they made the 3 more like 2.5.
I still don't use it, but i tried it on big fast bumps while playing around & it did the job.
I had mine mine re-valved and they made the 3 more like 2.5.
I still don't use it, but i tried it on big fast bumps while playing around & it did the job.
Motorhead
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Most of the time all of my shocks are set on 2. If I run on conditions that cause my to sled to overheat, I have no choice but to lower my sled by changing all settings to 1, and yes I do run and need Ice Scratchers. After 3 seasons of changing settings, I have found that all set on 2 except the rear on 1 allows for better cooling and pretty good aggressive riding.
But everything on 2 is where it is at for my style of riding. Best suspension I have ever owned because of those QS3R’s.
Have tried other Winders with cheaper shock package and not for me, so those could use some tweaking or change out!
So I would leave 1 & 2 alone but 3 is way too much. Maybe good for X game type guys!!
But everything on 2 is where it is at for my style of riding. Best suspension I have ever owned because of those QS3R’s.
Have tried other Winders with cheaper shock package and not for me, so those could use some tweaking or change out!
So I would leave 1 & 2 alone but 3 is way too much. Maybe good for X game type guys!!
Have you tried 1 since revalve? I worry about Valving softer since 1 is so soft already. Even groomed trails have that one oh #*$&@ washout or groomer pile once in awhile!Stock NO
I had mine mine re-valved and they made the 3 more like 2.5.
I still don't use it, but i tried it on big fast bumps while playing around & it did the job.
stevewithOCD
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With my last/current set up, i use #1 on all 4 shocks until high speed bumps
Then i'll notch the rears to 2 starting with the back, but it's rare for me
I just don't bottom even with the softer springs i put in & the 4-way adjuster on low
I actually asked Hygear to make them softer so i can run more middle adjustments allowing me more adjustments either way
Then i'll notch the rears to 2 starting with the back, but it's rare for me
I just don't bottom even with the softer springs i put in & the 4-way adjuster on low
I actually asked Hygear to make them softer so i can run more middle adjustments allowing me more adjustments either way
I hear ya. I am just paranoid since buddy with a new 9000 hit a small washout we all had gone over on trail 8 out of Shingleton New Years Eve day he was on 1 QS3 and took out his shoulder for rest of season.With my last/current set up, i use #1 on all 4 shocks until high speed bumps
Then i'll notch the rears to 2 starting with the back, but it's rare for me
I just don't bottom even with the softer springs i put in & the 4-way adjuster on low
I actually asked Hygear to make them softer so i can run more middle adjustments allowing me more adjustments either way
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