SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
can someone tell where there is a post on how to change chaincase fluid, thanks
badluck
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09 Nytro RTX
There is a 12mm head bolt in the bottom of the case behind the tunnel. Just put your hand up there feel around for it. Or just lay down and you can see it. Once located pull the plug and let drain for about 10 min. Then I spray 1 full can of brake clean through the fill hole to rince the case then let sit for an other 15-20 min. to evaporate whats left of the brake clean. Reinstall drain plug (do not over tighten). Then top off with fresh gear oil. I think it holds about 1 pint.
Oak Hill
VIP Member
Holds 8.5ozs!!!!!
craze1cars
VIP Member
Just gotta add I've never heard of the brake cleaner approach. I undertand the concept but I personally don't feel comfortable adding such a solvent unless I actually have the chaincase cover off. That way you can inspect and know for an absolute fact that it's fully dry before some drops of unknown leftover cleaner dilutes your fluid. I think the risk is a little greater than any benefit that might gained.
A better approach to this little project is actually to remove the chaincase cover anyway and take the opportunity to inspect gears and chain for anything out of the ordinary...I've never been a big fan of just using the drain plug myself, but it's certainly better than not changing the fluid it at all.
Also be sure to check and adjust your chain tension while you're thinking of it. Clear instructions are in your owner's manual if you don't know how.
A better approach to this little project is actually to remove the chaincase cover anyway and take the opportunity to inspect gears and chain for anything out of the ordinary...I've never been a big fan of just using the drain plug myself, but it's certainly better than not changing the fluid it at all.
Also be sure to check and adjust your chain tension while you're thinking of it. Clear instructions are in your owner's manual if you don't know how.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
thanks everyone
Turtle
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Does anyone else find that filling the chaincase a realy PITA!!
They put the filler for that thing in such a bad place that you can't help but spill some while trying to fill it!
They put the filler for that thing in such a bad place that you can't help but spill some while trying to fill it!
craze1cars
VIP Member
The pouring mess is all the more reason to get away from chaincase oil just buy gear lube..I'll answer 2 questions at once here from my perspective:
Yamaha calls for 75W or 80W GL-3 rated gear lube. That's standard rear axle fluid/manual transmission fluid available at any auto parts store for about $4 per quart....or $1 per chaincase oil change for our use. If you wanna splurge and go synthetic, dig deeper for about $10 you can get:
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Motor ... -90LS.aspx
At 75W GL-5 rating, it meets/exceed all the exact specs, is fully synthetic, costs about $2.50 per oil change, comes in a beautiful controllable squirt bottle with clear and easy to read see-thru side markers so you know when you've put EXACTLY 8.5 ounces in the hole without a single drip or spill and no need for a funnel.
Incidentally, you can also get good synthetic gear lube with the same specs from other mfrs, Valvoline, etc. I randomly picked Mobil 1.
I will never understand why so many people will pay $8 to $15 for an 8 or 12 ounce bottle of "chaincase oil" with unmarked/unknown viscosity and specs. Especially for a Yamaha, which is one of the only brands nice enough to keep it generic and offer the viscosity and rating specs right there on the belt guard...and then there's others who insist on using stuff like trans fluid and everything elseyou can think of....can you tell this whole "which chaincase oil to use" discussion I've seen repeated so often on other forums (not here....and I'm not meaning to diss the asker of the question...it is a good one BTW) has been a pet peeve of mine since the dawn of the snowmobile internet forum?
Off soapbox. Thus concludes my usually wordy answer to a simple question...peace out. I'm going boating for the rest of the day...
Yamaha calls for 75W or 80W GL-3 rated gear lube. That's standard rear axle fluid/manual transmission fluid available at any auto parts store for about $4 per quart....or $1 per chaincase oil change for our use. If you wanna splurge and go synthetic, dig deeper for about $10 you can get:
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Motor ... -90LS.aspx
At 75W GL-5 rating, it meets/exceed all the exact specs, is fully synthetic, costs about $2.50 per oil change, comes in a beautiful controllable squirt bottle with clear and easy to read see-thru side markers so you know when you've put EXACTLY 8.5 ounces in the hole without a single drip or spill and no need for a funnel.
Incidentally, you can also get good synthetic gear lube with the same specs from other mfrs, Valvoline, etc. I randomly picked Mobil 1.
I will never understand why so many people will pay $8 to $15 for an 8 or 12 ounce bottle of "chaincase oil" with unmarked/unknown viscosity and specs. Especially for a Yamaha, which is one of the only brands nice enough to keep it generic and offer the viscosity and rating specs right there on the belt guard...and then there's others who insist on using stuff like trans fluid and everything elseyou can think of....can you tell this whole "which chaincase oil to use" discussion I've seen repeated so often on other forums (not here....and I'm not meaning to diss the asker of the question...it is a good one BTW) has been a pet peeve of mine since the dawn of the snowmobile internet forum?
Off soapbox. Thus concludes my usually wordy answer to a simple question...peace out. I'm going boating for the rest of the day...
Regarding the filling of the case, for years I have used a small funnel I rigged with a piece of fuel line on the end to snake down into the fill hole. It takes awhile to get the fluid through the skinny hose. Heating the fluid up helps it flow faster.
apex yooper
Expert
fluid
Thanks craze.
Thanks craze.
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
I know im going to use some synthetic NON FOAMING oil in mine this year..
yamadoo
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I am with craze1cars, I like his soap box also, fun to read and I will follow his lead with the Mobile 1 75-90 gear lube.
Yamadoo
Yamadoo
riverrat
Expert
I was thinking of using MerCruiser High Performance oil which is synthethic 85-90w is this viscosity too high at 85-90????
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Get the kind of bottle like they sell for outboard gearcases. Cut the tip and put a piece of HOSE over it. Feed the hose into the fill tube, then squeeze. Make sure the oil isn't too cold.
BlgsRX-1mtn
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I use Torco Synthetic Chain Case oil. It has a GL-4 rating yet is thin enough to lube the chain in cold temps. My sled usually sits outside overnight rather than in a heated garage so I wanted something a little thinner than 75-90 gear lube. If my sleds were stored overnight in a heated garage or the oil had time to warm up proir to rides; I would probably use a cheaper 75-90 gear lube instead. I also add a little ER (Energy Release) Anti-friction Metal Conditioner to the chaincases also.
I know it wasn't asked but, for greasing all my vehicles (including my sleds and PWC) I use ER G-100 lithium grease.
Here's a link to the data on Torco Synthetic Chaincase Oil http://www.torcoracingoils.com/images/product/SCC.pdf .
Jim
I know it wasn't asked but, for greasing all my vehicles (including my sleds and PWC) I use ER G-100 lithium grease.
Here's a link to the data on Torco Synthetic Chaincase Oil http://www.torcoracingoils.com/images/product/SCC.pdf .
Jim
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