Question on replacing seals in the chain case

[Bradford]

I decided to replace all bearings and seals in my chain case. When installing the new seals, I realized that there is no lip for the seals to rest up against. You can actually push them right into the bearing. Can anyone give me the proper procedure for installing these seals?

 

[Bradford]

Anyone??

I must be the only one who has ever questioned this. I have searched this entire site, googled it and asked my dealer and I still don't have a straight answer. My dealer said to just press the seals in "about half way" but I have two problems with this. 1, you would never get the seals into the same position and 2, it would be very difficult to get them in straight. I even asked my next door neighbor who is a mechanical maintenance guy that works with bearings and seals all day long. He said that any time he has worked with this type of seal, there is always a ridge that you press the seal up against. Interesting enough, the seal behind the brake caliper has such a ridge but the other two seals don't

I found a drawing in this RX1 link that shows these seals flush with the inside lip that the bearing rests up against. http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight= This makes sense to me because you would have a machined surface as a reference. I ran this by by my dealer and they thought that the seal would be too close to the bearing. Again, still no definitive answer

Maybe I'm just over-thinking this

 

[JROCK]

press your bearings into the case! Then press your seal in flush to the case. Then install your the spacer into the seal and see where it lines up. from what i remember you have room to work with the seal and not have a problem.

 

[Redbeard]

I decided to replace all bearings and seals in my chain case. When installing the new seals, I realized that there is no lip for the seals to rest up against. You can actually push them right into the bearing. Can anyone give me the proper procedure for installing these seals?

Double check and make sure the collar on the drive shaft doesn't have a groove worn it from the old seal you just replaced. As stated above, you should be ok if you drive the seal in just past the bevel of the seal bore.

 

[Bradford]

press your bearings into the case! Then press your seal in flush to the case. Then install your the spacer into the seal and see where it lines up. from what i remember you have room to work with the seal and not have a problem.

I never thought of removing the spacer from the shaft and inserting it into the seal to see where it lands!

I decided to replace all bearings and seals in my chain case. When installing the new seals, I realized that there is no lip for the seals to rest up against. You can actually push them right into the bearing. Can anyone give me the proper procedure for installing these seals?

Double check and make sure the collar on the drive shaft doesn't have a groove worn it from the old seal you just replaced. If you're not sure about the seal depth, fit the drive axle and chaincase back together without the track. Then look inside the tunnel and make sure the collar is fully engaged with the seal. As stated above, you should be ok if you drive the seal in just past the bevel of the seal bore.

The spacer has a polished line around it where the original seal sat. I suppose you could call it "wear". I was thinking that I should have the new seal lined up with with this line but maybe I should re-position the seal so that it is in contact with a fresh part of the spacer

Thanks for the input guys!

Bradford

 

[Redbeard]

That would be a good idea!

 

[JROCK]

I did not replace the collar when i changed the seals in the case and had water entering from the bottom seal. If you have it apart and see a wear line on the collar either space the seal so its not riding on it or get a new collar. I went the new method after taking it apart the second time.

 

[Blue Dave]

I also changed all of my chaincase bearings and seals. My recollection is that I pressed the seals in until they were just a bit past flush. For anyone else replacing all of the chaincase seals keep in mind that the seal in the chaincase cover is different than the other two chaincase seals . It is a Viton seal that is designed for the higher temperatures that might be transmitted through the jackshaft from the brake rotor. The Viton seal is red in color and costs about three times as much as the two other standard black oil seals.

 

[Bradford]

Blue Dave

That seal is the only one that has a lip to rest up against. For the other two, I ended up using a washer that was just a bit smaller than the seal and one that was a bit larger. I put the larger washer on the inside of the case, flush with the seat that the bearing rests up against then I dropped the smaller washer in from the outside and pressed the seal up against the smaller washer. This ensured that the seals went in straight while maintaining a small gap between the seal and the bearing