RA shock cable broke, how to set?

[purple]

The cable from the side of tunnel adjuster to shock broke on my '06 Attak. Appears heavy ice build up was the problem. I saw a thread on this months ago but can not find it now when I need to know the proper way to set the dial and shock during replacement. I need your help guys! Thanks

 

[ROCKERDAN]

wow,id like to know too!.....

mine broke the first season i had the sled,ice builup with the remote cable is a horrible flaw in these sleds...they dont last long....

fortunately mine has been set where i like it pretty much....but it would be nice if we could get on the end of it somehow to change settings without getting a new cable which will just break again

Dan

 

[TBay Sledhead]

When mine broke I sealed the end of the fitting where the cable attaches to the shock and installed it on the shock. When u want 2 adjust it remove the fittiing from the shock and I use the end of a file which is square which I have cut down to the right size and u can turn the adjuster. Clockwize 4 soft Counerclockwize for hard. U can actually feel the clicks (detents) when adjusted in this fashion. No more than 2 turns clockwize. I think that is supposed to be the limit. I know that u can't adjust on the fly but u can't adjust either when the cable is broken.

 

[Snomad]

I have the instructions for this at the lake. I am sure a dealer could give you the info. You have to turn the dial all the way in one direction and then the shock all the way in the opposite direction, then install the cable. Sorry I can't remember which direction for each. If you are going to adjust the shock as described without the cable it is backwards from what is on the dial. There is supposed to be gearing in that cable assembly which would reverse the direction from that on the dial. That means counterclockwise at the shock to soften. Normally it is clockwise on the dial to soften.

 

[purple]

Thanks for the replys! Got that part understood now but here's another question on this shock. How many clicks or turns should be on the shock itself? After having the shock rebuilt and revalved, I only seem to have 3 clicks and about 1/2 of a turn. Thoughts ?

 

[canadianhunter]

From a previous post.

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This is what I posted under suspension:
Dissconnect the cable and follow the below.



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Turn the adjuster knob to hard and notice as you are turning it that the end of the cable turns the oposite way do to the gear reduction. Now turn the shock that way, oposite to the dial. I use a small pocket screwdriver, you can feel it click as you turn. I leave the shock one click from hard, but thats just me.
Hope this helps, if not I will try again.
_________________

 

[ReX]

When mine broke I sealed the end of the fitting where the cable attaches to the shock and installed it on the shock. When u want 2 adjust it remove the fittiing from the shock and I use the end of a file which is square which I have cut down to the right size and u can turn the adjuster. Clockwize 4 soft Counerclockwize for hard. U can actually feel the clicks (detents) when adjusted in this fashion. No more than 2 turns clockwize. I think that is supposed to be the limit. I know that u can't adjust on the fly but u can't adjust either when the cable is broken.

I'm going from memory here, but I'm fairly certain that turning the clicker at the shock itself clockwise increases the damping and counter-clockwise reduces the damping.

The direction reverses between the tunnel mounted knob and the shock itself.

When you install a new cable, you ultimately want to set things up so that when the tunnel control is on full hard (counter clockwise), that the shock is also on full hard (clockwise).

Regardless of the direction, the easiest way I found to do this was:

1. Install the new cable (with the skid in the sled is fine), but don't tighten up one end.
2. Turn the tunnel control all the way to "full hard". Don't force it - if it stops part way (because the shock hits full hard first), go to step 5.
3. Pull out the cable at one end and with it out, turn the tunnel control back towards "soft".
4. Re-insert the cable and go back to step 2.
5. Now that the shock is at "full hard", pull out the cable at one end, turn the tunnel adjuster to "full hard" and re-insert the cable.
6. Tighten up the cable thumb screws.
7. Test to make sure you can turn the tunnel adjuster all the way from soft to hard.
8. Go sledding.

You can do steps 2 through 5 all in one fluid cycle by holding the disconnected end of the shock cable in one hand while your other hand is controlling the tunnel knob. It only takes a few seconds to work the knob back and forth a few times and tighten up the clicker in the shock.

One thing to keep in mind is there is more rotation available at the shock than the tunnel clicker can handle. In other words, if you don't do the adjustment, you can easily end up with the tunnel knob being able to turn from full soft to hard (making it "look" like things are working), but still not get anywhere the stiffest setting when on hard.

 

[TBay Sledhead]

Clockwise for soft counter clockwise for hard

 

[ReX]

Clockwise for soft counter clockwise for hard

I thought I was correct - thanks for the confirmation.

Note that the valve at the shock itself turns the opposite direction for hard (as mentioned in my post above).

 

[TBay Sledhead]

R u referring to the adjusting knob or the cable itself.

 

[ReX]

R u referring to the adjusting knob or the cable itself.

I was looking at your picture to confirm my post above.

Adjusting knob: clockwise softer, counter-clockwise harder

Shock/cable: clockwise harder, counter-clockwise softer

It doesn't really matter which way is harder/softer if you use the method I posted to calibrate the adjuster.

 

[bashley]

I just noticed today that mine had came off. I don't know if I'm right or not but I stuck it back in and turned the knob all the way to hard until it stopped and then backed it off a couple clicks. It was definately stiffer than before so something must have worked. After I was done I just took the boot off and zip-tied the loose cable to one of the suspension arms so it didn't flop around.

 

[snoway]

Would it be best to find the exact center on each, the dial and the shock and assemble them at that point.
You may find the shock has 2 full turns while the dial has 1.5 turns. If you go all the way in either direction , you may be missing the opposite end of adjustment whether that be max. hard or max. soft.
The front clickers seem to have extra clicks in both directions according to the owners manual "shock adjustment"

 

[yamadog1]

dial

what ever way you do it make sure you ride your sled and fine tune, it's
very important for the best ride.

 

[ReX]

Would it be best to find the exact center on each, the dial and the shock and assemble them at that point.
You may find the shock has 2 full turns while the dial has 1.5 turns. If you go all the way in either direction , you may be missing the opposite end of adjustment whether that be max. hard or max. soft.
The front clickers seem to have extra clicks in both directions according to the owners manual "shock adjustment"

No. If you want to be able to make use of the full range you want it adjusted so full hard is full hard.

The reason for this is as the clicker is backed off towards the soft position, each click does less and less. Once the shock is backed off 20 clicks (away from full hard), turning the clicker further towards soft will do virtually nothing.

On the other hand, the first 5 or so clicks from full hard make the biggest difference.

Not only does it make sense to adjust it this way, but it is also what Yamaha states in the shop manual.

If you honestly find the ride better with more than 21 clicks towards soft I don't think it will hurt anything to run it this way - but I very much doubt you'll see any difference from 21 clicks vs 25 clicks.