lund
Pro
From right hand side hose routing from running board to under tunnel cooler.
The hose may be routed to the front cooler if your plan is to delete the under tunnel cooler.
I decided to retain it for extra snow melting.
Connection to under tunnel cooler.
The hose may be routed to the front cooler if your plan is to delete the under tunnel cooler.
I decided to retain it for extra snow melting.
Connection to under tunnel cooler.
lund
Pro
General overview.
The flow start's at the suction hose of water pump that connect's to the front tunnel cooler.
Flow's through the motor to the thermostat housing and when cold will flow back to front tunnel cooler then back to suction hose at water pump. Circulating engine front cooler, engine front cooler, till thermostat opens.
At this point the flow is redirected at the thermostat housing to the hose connected to the expansion bottle, then to the left running board cooler. Then it flow's through the running board to the tunnel rear U-cooler back to the right running board cooler.
It then flow's out the right running board to the under tunnel cooler, then back to the front cooler to the suction hose, where it will circulate again.
If you eliminate the under tunnel cooler, you will plumb the hoses so the flow will go from the right running board directly into the front cooler where it is picked up by the suction again.
The flow start's at the suction hose of water pump that connect's to the front tunnel cooler.
Flow's through the motor to the thermostat housing and when cold will flow back to front tunnel cooler then back to suction hose at water pump. Circulating engine front cooler, engine front cooler, till thermostat opens.
At this point the flow is redirected at the thermostat housing to the hose connected to the expansion bottle, then to the left running board cooler. Then it flow's through the running board to the tunnel rear U-cooler back to the right running board cooler.
It then flow's out the right running board to the under tunnel cooler, then back to the front cooler to the suction hose, where it will circulate again.
If you eliminate the under tunnel cooler, you will plumb the hoses so the flow will go from the right running board directly into the front cooler where it is picked up by the suction again.
kennyspec
Expert
Awesome build your cooling capacity is probably way overkill lol! Any details on the turbo? What fuelntank are you running? Any problems with the tunnel dump exhaust?
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
a couple of more questions what fuel controller and is it a low boost setup ?
lund
Pro
kennyspec said:
The turbo is a Garret purchased from Boondocker.
I generally run a mix of 91oct and C12 cause of the boost i like to run, 50/50.
No problem's with the tunnel dump, it actually sound's awsome realy deep and throaty not loud and annoying like a bagged out Honda.
lund
Pro
Sportsterdanne said:
It's a Boondocker fuel controller and the boost is completely adjustable from a low 8Lbs to over 20Lbs.
At 8-12Lbs you can run safely pump fuel 91oct. But its recommended to mix accordingly after 12Lbs.
I have her set at 18Lbs, so i run 50/50, C12 and 91.
lund
Pro
The turbo system work's extremely well, with the intake manifold and exhaust less then 6" in length. There is virtually no noticable lag and throttle response is extremely fast. The turbo is large and it also uses three extra injectors mounted in the innercooler, so its capable of making big HP.
Tunning is simple and the system has been very reliable, it now going on 4season's, no issues.
The only complaint or issue you could say has alway's been HEAT. A problem with most any front mount, they will melt anything near them, thus insulating is important.
But IMO the front mount's make the most HP and produce the best throttle response.
Tunning is simple and the system has been very reliable, it now going on 4season's, no issues.
The only complaint or issue you could say has alway's been HEAT. A problem with most any front mount, they will melt anything near them, thus insulating is important.
But IMO the front mount's make the most HP and produce the best throttle response.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Have you lowered the compression ?
kennyspec
Expert
Can we see more pics plz is it a 25 or 28 series of garrett?
lund
Pro
Yes the motor has a head shim. Its actually the only mod done to the motor, its otherwise stock.
The Garrett is a GT2860RS (aka GT28RS), Its a dual ball bearing, oil lubed and coolant cooled turbo. It can easily crank over 300hp.
She is a sweet turbo.
The Garrett is a GT2860RS (aka GT28RS), Its a dual ball bearing, oil lubed and coolant cooled turbo. It can easily crank over 300hp.
She is a sweet turbo.
kennyspec
Expert
Sounds like a sweet setup. Is there any noticeable lag when playing around in the powder or trees? What rpm does it spool at? I know I asked before but I would love to see a pic of the intercooler and manifold routing.
lund
Pro
Lag is something that can be virtually eliminated by having as short as possible and as direct as possible fresh air intake, intake manifold, exhaust manifold and a directly hookedup to carb.(throttle body) innercooler.
So there is no noticeable lag in powder or in tight trees, in fact this sled has a much more user friendly power then just about any 2stroke but with the bonus of instant jump out of a hole capabilities.
Unlike other setups such as rear mounts with long manifolds and pipe routings, spoolup is instant and lag nonexistant. Plus overall HP output is quicker.
The real drawback is HEAT.
So there is no noticeable lag in powder or in tight trees, in fact this sled has a much more user friendly power then just about any 2stroke but with the bonus of instant jump out of a hole capabilities.
Unlike other setups such as rear mounts with long manifolds and pipe routings, spoolup is instant and lag nonexistant. Plus overall HP output is quicker.
The real drawback is HEAT.
kennyspec
Expert
More pics!
Colorado Nytro
Extreme
Can you tell me if you have had any success with Hammerite Dual Protection? Is there not a product that just will not let the snow stick to the tunnel? Great work on the sled!
lund
Pro
Here are some of the results of first ride.
But first thing is first, one of the differences that you get is an extra 2litres of coolant in the cooling system. The entire cooling system has more volume and more exposed cooling area as compared to the oem radiator type cooling system.
We drove the sled hard on hard pack and the cooling remained constant at 180deg.
We spent most the entire day in the backcountry pounding the powder and after a good day the snow build up was at a minumum. I didn't get any pic's of the ride but plan to do so and i will post them. But i can honnestly say snow buildup was eleminated by atleast 75%. The entire center of the tunnel has virtually no snow buildup, except a very small portion under seat area. While the edges of the tunnel at rear does build snow, it is limited to that area. The running boards build NO snow at all, 100% clear of snow.
Noticable side notes on this mod, the radiator and fan combo with coolant inside was weighed at 8Lbs, now gone from front high location. Coolant weight now distributed through out tunnel now.
We also replaced the 14Lbs battery with a 3Lbs lithium ion battery.
The combination of nearly 18Lbs weight removal from the front suspension and spindles was very noticable in so many way's.
I will get pictures of the under tunnel during the ride next time out.
But first thing is first, one of the differences that you get is an extra 2litres of coolant in the cooling system. The entire cooling system has more volume and more exposed cooling area as compared to the oem radiator type cooling system.
We drove the sled hard on hard pack and the cooling remained constant at 180deg.
We spent most the entire day in the backcountry pounding the powder and after a good day the snow build up was at a minumum. I didn't get any pic's of the ride but plan to do so and i will post them. But i can honnestly say snow buildup was eleminated by atleast 75%. The entire center of the tunnel has virtually no snow buildup, except a very small portion under seat area. While the edges of the tunnel at rear does build snow, it is limited to that area. The running boards build NO snow at all, 100% clear of snow.
Noticable side notes on this mod, the radiator and fan combo with coolant inside was weighed at 8Lbs, now gone from front high location. Coolant weight now distributed through out tunnel now.
We also replaced the 14Lbs battery with a 3Lbs lithium ion battery.
The combination of nearly 18Lbs weight removal from the front suspension and spindles was very noticable in so many way's.
I will get pictures of the under tunnel during the ride next time out.
