rail tips hitting 06 attak

[mdkuni]

Yep, fill it with GOOP or I use RTV SILICONE of any kind, once you drill out the rivet to replace it, take the rail cap off and fill it up and re-install it and wipe of excess GOOP or SILICONE and re-fasten, it will absorb vibrations...

Did the same thing here, but have not put any miles on since. I will let you know how it holds up.

 

[NOS-PRO]

No, I tried the bolts on the side, and they still broke off. The method I mentioned is underneath the rails like the hyfax screws go into the rail.

Broke off???

I'm curious how that could happen....were they aluminum or was it sticking out past the cap and subject to impact from ice etc?

Don't know either, they were there, and then they weren't. Thought the bolts would have stayed there, but can't figure what happened. Bolt holes were fine, so the bolts must have came loose and lost the nuts, then everything came off.

 

[**sj**]

ah...need locktite dude..

 

[ReX]

I removed the rivet, drilled a second hole, and installed two nylock nuts and bolts holding each tip in place with small washers underneath on each side. I didn't countersink them.

In over 4000 miles, the tips are still rock solid tight.

As far as hitting extroverts, you definitely need to check the rail tips for clearance when installing extroverts.

With my 07 RTX, if I compressed the front of the suspension the right amount they did hit. To resolve this I removed 1/4" of plastic from the tip of each cap and then reshaped the bottom of the cap. This gives me close to 3/16" of clearance, but without removing material there was roughly 1/16" of interference at certain suspension positions.

I can't confirm that the Attak's rail tips hit, but with the ProActive suspension in the 07 RTX they definitely do.

 

[mdkuni]

In my opinion the rail caps are not the issue. After running several hundred miles with my clips siliconed on I still lost my clips. The caps are still solid.

The track is just going to have to be run tighter. I think that is the only solution.

 

[Blue Me]

Here's a fix for you boys!! I've had this problem twice on my 06 Attak and Yamaha has addressed in the form of warranty repair and replacement. I can't speak for the rest of you but I think with the wheel problems the hi-fax wear and the track clips it booils down to this. This suspension when run for long duartion of high speed runs falls apart like a POS!!!!!!

 

[**sj**]

when you take a 1.250 track with closed windows and an flat approach angle and rubber against plastic...you get problems like accelerated hyfax wear..loss of clips etc...

raising the limiter will lessen the flatness some and help on the rail tips and ratcheting...less heat built into the clips...slower hyfax wear etc...opening the windows allow more snow in...fully clipping stops the plastic against rubber friction...
I run simmons skis with snow throwers that throw snow into this area...every little bit helps...a sum of the parts thing...next year a 1" track will help further..

 

[stinx]

Mine are loose also. I was going to drill out the rivets and use a stainless bolt, lock washer and slicon or goo. What size nut and bolt would work best?

 

[iasledder]

Well I went the very expensive route and replaced the mono system with the zx2 on my Apex, no more yamie skid frame problems. Just waiting to find out what type of problems I had to pay more for. If this suspension holds up, in my opinion it's leaps and bounds ahead of the mono.

 

[**sj**]

better than the mono in what way?

 

[iasledder]

Rides better, no g bump problems and I had a revalve on my mono and weigh about 210 dressed. Hooks up better, although I give credit to the mono, especially compared to an M-10. I find it's flatter in turns. So far no slide rail, bogey wheel, grease zerk fitting, weld and rust problems. Like I said don't know what other trade offs I may have made. To me the ride difference is the greatest advantage I have enjoyed the most.