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Rear cooler for 07 Attak

timc

Extreme
Joined
Apr 5, 2007
Messages
102
Location
Old Town, Maine
I have a new 07 Attak. I came from a Ski-Doo 800 Renegade and I really like the Yamaha.

I have 162 Woodys 1.325" Mega Bites and I want to put a rear cooler that Yamaha offers for the rear of the tunnel as cooling can be an issue in icy conditions or when temps get into the mid-30's and nothing is being thrown onto the running boards.

My dealer says the tunnel protectors have to be cut to put this Yamaha built cooler on and it looks like the studs could contact the cooler. He checked with Yamaha and they said they don't recommend studs. They also said I shouldn't need the cooler if I have studs which makes no sense with running board coolers. They were also concerned the sled might run too cold with the extra cooler as it has a small radiator.

I can assure anyone, it doesn't run too cold. It's hard on rubber soles and the radiator fan does cycle although the temp light doesn't come on. (doesn't it have a thermostat?)

Is there a solution to the rear tunnel cooler with picks problem?

Tim
 

I rode my Gt on icy trails this March in mid to upper 30 degree temps, after a 50 degree day, adn I fought the temp light all day. It would go out if I stopped for a minute, which I had to do to look at the map from time to time. I have 144 studs in mine, and I'm adding the rear cooler this summer! I don't think you have to do anything to the sled for protection, but I'd search this site for rear coolers to see if there is something I'm missing
Nate
 
There has been some threads on this subject. Some riders posted that Yamaha might have the mixture of antifreeze more than 50/50 with water, that may or maynot be a cause for overheating. My son-in-law has a Attak and has experienced the temp lite coming on, he wants to put on rear heat exchanger and wants to stud sled. [ Lots of studs, because he likes to ice race occasionally]. plowking
 
I just checked my anti freeze yesterday..

1. the overfill tub was empty.. The fluid was at the top when I removed the cap though. But I think when your running it may go down some on demand. My truck use to anyway.

2. I checked the mixure with a tester I bought a few years ago. I don't know how accurate it is. It's a Autozone or Walmart type I'm sure.
It read off the scale.. last reading marks are around 50 below I belive. So it's like a lot here say.. I could cut it down some..

Mine overheated on it's first run on packed snow with a ice glaze on top. Until the snow softened.

I'm concerened for next year as well..

If we get the rear coolers we'll have to fabricate protectors somehow.


I wish they sold something to just rivit in place.. so we don't have to get a welder involved.
 
overheat

The overfill tub usually appears almost empty when it is cold. As the engine heats it should climb to about half way up. As far as antifreeze strength goes, by the sounds of everyone on this site, every machine comes from the factory with full strength antifreeze and has to be diluted. They should at least attach a WARNING sticker and let everyone know either on the sled or on the cover of the owners manual that comes with it. My rear heat exchanger should be here any day and there must be a way to bend down the tunnel protectors and slip the exchanger in there. I'm sure someone here has solved it.
 
Re: overheat

gitrdun said:
The overfill tub usually appears almost empty when it is cold. As the engine heats it should climb to about half way up. As far as antifreeze strength goes, by the sounds of everyone on this site, every machine comes from the factory with full strength antifreeze and has to be diluted. They should at least attach a WARNING sticker and let everyone know either on the sled or on the cover of the owners manual that comes with it. My rear heat exchanger should be here any day and there must be a way to bend down the tunnel protectors and slip the exchanger in there. I'm sure someone here has solved it.

The over flow tank was empty.

Port Yamaha sent me an email picture of a machine with the cooler protectors installed. Nice job.. I searched but can't find anyone that sells these protectors.
 

Attachments

  • RX-RS 136-151 Cooler With Protectors.jpg
    RX-RS 136-151 Cooler With Protectors.jpg
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you cannot use normal antifreeze tester you must use a reflectometer and adding rear yamaha cooler will not work first ride out studs will contact hard be careful
 
I don't believe that's the one everyone is using. That is way to big.
 
Thanks for the picture. That application looks like square tubing cut to shape and welded in place, but I'm sure the ends can be flared or adapted somehow, that rivets could be used.
 
lowboy said:
you cannot use normal antifreeze tester you must use a reflectometer and adding rear yamaha cooler will not work first ride out studs will contact hard be careful

Lowboy

Are you sure no one can run one in an Attak? Got any links for us to soak up? I've been searching alot and still can't get a finger on one.

Anyone got any links were an Attak has one and works well with or without studs?



[/quote]
 
Maybe I'm missing something but looking at the pictures, how can the studs hit the heat exchanger when they are 8-10 inches away? Even if you bottom out, wouldn't it be hard to move the suspension that far to hit?
 
SledFreak said:
I don't believe that's the one everyone is using. That is way to big.

That's the one I have on my Attak. They are bigger than the exchangers for the short tracks. I'm not studded, so didn't replace any protectors. And it works great on the Attak.
 
That is an Attak heat exchanger, I have one left in stock here. When you fully bottom out or if you land on the "tail" of the rear suspension it will hit the exchanger if you have studs. Those protectors in that picture look great!
 
Just as a guideline regarding stud length or lug height:

I am using that heat exchanger without stud protectors.
When the rear suspension is fully bottomed out, the lugs of my 1.5" Intense are just touching the bottom of the heat exchanger.
 
Allen, do you need protectors added for the 121 when adding a rear exchanger.
 


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