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Rear Heat Exchanger Stud Interference (Apex SE)

I have the ripper on an 06 Apex..... It is not a studded track feeling sled, better than nothing but miss my studs

No clearance problems
 

Port-Parts said:
The problem with the stock tunnel protectors on the newer power steering apex's is that the C-channel bracket that attaches them to the tunnel actually flexes as the track rubs against the protectors allowing the studs to do the damage you see. Over time the C-channel gap decreases as the channel bends from the protectors contact with the track and then you get into some serious problems with the cooler and the EXUP Valve getting hit by the studs (you may want to check out the EXUP on the sled above as well). What we have been doing is removing the C-channel brackets and having a chunk of aluminum welded into them to prevent them from collapsing and then reinstalling them. If you choose this route be sure to get a measurement of how big the gap is on a stock protector as most used sleds have already had the gap flattened as the C-channel bends over use. Here's a couple photos of how we mod the C-channel brackets.
It doesn't appear from the photos that there is enough room to get the nut back on (new piece seems too close to bolt hole) or a socket to fit now that you have diminished the hole by welding on the new piece. How did you re-install it?
 
Port-Parts said:
The problem with the stock tunnel protectors on the newer power steering apex's is that the C-channel bracket that attaches them to the tunnel actually flexes as the track rubs against the protectors allowing the studs to do the damage you see. Over time the C-channel gap decreases as the channel bends from the protectors contact with the track and then you get into some serious problems with the cooler and the EXUP Valve getting hit by the studs (you may want to check out the EXUP on the sled above as well). What we have been doing is removing the C-channel brackets and having a chunk of aluminum welded into them to prevent them from collapsing and then reinstalling them. If you choose this route be sure to get a measurement of how big the gap is on a stock protector as most used sleds have already had the gap flattened as the C-channel bends over use. Here's a couple photos of how we mod the C-channel brackets.

kevin maybe you could post the correct (undisturbed) "C" width of the mount?
 
I just modified the C-channel brackets like Kevin from Port Yamaha describes above. I dropped the skid and removed the protectors on my 2011 Apex SE with 5000kms and measured the widths of each of the 6 mounts from the top of the protectors to the top of the mounts with a caliper.They were as follows from front to rear:
Right side 27.54 mm 22.52 mm 40.10 mm
Left side 27.47 mm 21.84 mm 39.94 mm

I took a piece 1-1/2" x 1/8" aluminum bar stock from TSC ($12.99) and cut and ground inserts like Kevin pictures above to fit snugly into each C bracket so as to add approx. 1.5 mm of height to account for any possible sag that may have occurred. They fit so snug that no clamping was required once they were wedged into place. I then took them to a local welder and had all 6 welded for $40.00. I had 3 very fine scratches on the Exup cover and 3 deeper ones on the muffler edge and I run the track on the tight side of spec.and go through sliders like crazy. Hopefully this allows for a looser track, more top end?, better slider wear and less Exup $$$$ Anxiety!
 
Thanks very much for the info.

What are you running for studs?

I run 1.325 Megabytes down the middle and have had no issues with ticking Exup or muffler in 3 years.

Track has never been adjusted so is looser than spec. [these sleds have dual drivers so I do not worry about ratcheting.]

BTW I have 7500 km [5,000 miles] on the original slides and have no plans on changing them. [currently 12 to 13 mm and have been there since the end of seaso 1 for the sled.]
 
I run 1.325 Signatures in a 3-2-2 pattern X 17 rows for a total of 119 down the middle. I've bought the Duponts for next season and coupled with a looser track am looking forward to maybe a little more top end and a lot less slider changing time. I've never got more than a 1000 kms out of a set and as little as 100 kms on an icy day.
 
Whats easiest way to get the protectors out to add reinforcement? Whats the procedure for dropping the skid and whats the procedure for accessing the muffler on top of the tunnel? Im gonna go with 102 woodys sig. Series with aluminum backers. 1.325". Woodys tech says there should be no issues with hitting anything with that length and that amount of studs.
 
ApexSE/Vector said:
I just modified the C-channel brackets like Kevin from Port Yamaha describes above. I dropped the skid and removed the protectors on my 2011 Apex SE with 5000kms and measured the widths of each of the 6 mounts from the top of the protectors to the top of the mounts with a caliper.They were as follows from front to rear:
Right side 27.54 mm 22.52 mm 40.10 mm
Left side 27.47 mm 21.84 mm 39.94 mm

Interesting note with your measurements is that when new the front two brackets on each side are identical in width - your measurements show the middle brackets end up bent the most (5-6mm more collapsed than front set) which is what we have also observed. Your repair sounds like it is on the right track I just hope you enlarged the gap on the middle brackets far enough...as they should be the same width as the front brackets. The dupont sliders will also greatly help with the slide wear issue. :Rockon:
 
mr. shide said:
Whats easiest way to get the protectors out to add reinforcement? Whats the procedure for dropping the skid and whats the procedure for accessing the muffler on top of the tunnel? Im gonna go with 102 woodys sig. Series with aluminum backers. 1.325". Woodys tech says there should be no issues with hitting anything with that length and that amount of studs.

To remove the protectors you need to hang the rear of the sled up in the air and then remove the 2 rear bolts mounting the suspension to the tunnel - this will allow the track/suspension to pivot away from the tunnel allowing room to access and remove the 3 nuts per side that hold the protector to the tunnel. After removing the 3 nuts the protectors will slide right out and then can be worked on to mod the brackets or replace them with the kit we offer. When the sleds are brand new the clearance to run 1.325 studs is adequate but after as little as a couple hundred miles the brackets will collapse from track contact and the scraping issues with the exup, muffler, and rear cooler begin...
 
Ok. Do i need to unbolt one of the transfer rod bolts as well? What is the kit you offer? Any link to it? Is it somethimg i can install or
Doni need to ship them off? Thanks.
 
Anyone know how long/tall the brace piece needs to be that will be welded onto the "c" channel? Id like to go ahead and get some pieces cut to length on the bandsaw.
 
mr. shide said:
Ok. Do i need to unbolt one of the transfer rod bolts as well? What is the kit you offer? Any link to it? Is it somethimg i can install or
Doni need to ship them off? Thanks.

You don't have to unbolt one of the transfer rod bolts but if you have trouble getting it lined up when putting it back in you could remove one of the transfer rod bolts as it may make it easier. The kit we have contains all six new brackets modded like we have shown in the pics earlier in this thread to prevent the brackets from collapsing along with 12 rivets to install the brackets to the protector. You just need to remove the protectors from the sled, drill out two rivets per bracket to remove the brackets from the protector, then rivet on the modded brackets in our kit with the supplied rivets, and then reinstall the protector onto the sled. We sell the kit which includes 6 new modded brackets along with 12 rivets for $120. Give us a call at the number in my signature if you have questions or would like to get a kit. Thanks
 


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