Rear Heat Exchanger Stud Interference (Apex SE)

[mr. shide]

Which bolts? Seems to me there has to be more than just 2 rear bolts. I undid the 2 that are directly under the running boards but track is still hanging on the top rear idler wheels. So do i need to remove the idler wheels also? This isnt like my 2006.

 

[Port-Parts]

Yes on the 128" Apex models those upper rear idler wheels must also be removed from the tunnel in order for the track to pivot down out of the way to easily get at the protectors to remove them. The 144" Apex XTX models just require the two rear bolts holding the skid to the tunnel to come out to drop the back of the track/skid down.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

You may find it easier to lower the pressure in the shock and use a ratchet strap wrapped to compress the shock slightly. This will aid in dropping the skid and reinstallation.

HTH

 

[mr. shide]

Ok thanks for the info. Ill give her another try tomorrow.

 

[mr. shide]

Got the braced up tunnel protectors re-installed. The track just barely, barely rubs the protectors for about a 1" long section right past the upper idler wheel location. Im not too worried about it. I know itl be a little extra drag for a while but those lugs will wear down eventually.

 

[Vmaxkid]

Question for anyone who knows about the tunnel protector C brackets. I believe mine have started to compress as I found a gash in my rear exchanger. I looked at the various posts on here regarding the compression of these brackets and was wondering a few things. Does anyone know the proper distance at the opening of the C bracket from the factory? I thought I saw a post somewhere on the site showing two measurements taken by someone but can’t find it. And lastly, do you think that an automotive bump stop placed within the two rear most C brackets will keep the brackets from compressing? I bought these at Advance Auto today and since there already is a hole in the bottom of the bracket I figured I could trim them to fit and install with the existing lock nut and a fender washer. Thoughts? My big question is what is the factory spec on those rear brackets so I check mine and adjust.

 

[Vmaxkid]

Anyone?

 

[canadian nytro]

I think your idea could work. I don't know the factory spec but mine don't rub I'll check them tomorrow for you can see what my clearance is

 

[canadian nytro]

Ok I got off my #*$&@ and measured the space right after the C bracket and I have 1 11/16" from the bottom of the tunnel to the top of the protector and that distance is the same right in front of the heater exchanger as well. The measurement at the exup exhaust is harder to take if you need that I could maybe try tomorrow.

 

[1 TOUZAN]

Here's an updated version of my earlier post on just running a longer bolt thru the muffler mounting nut and using it as a stop for the tunnel protector. This time I used a collar that fits perfect into the half moon shaped cutout in the bracket and used a couple of washers to shim it which you can use to put a little downward pressure on the protector to add a little more clearance. These collars you already have because they're the collars that are used with the factory ski wear bars. I then just put a longer bolt thru the muffler bracket to hold the collar in place. I did also put a washer under the EXUP and muffler to shim them up a little. This is a simple and easy fix. These pictures are a 2014 Apex 128 with Woody's 1.325 studs using their stud pattern. And please run your track tension at factory spec, there is NO reason to run it loose.