rear heat exchanger

STILLCRP

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07 Attak
I ride a 07 attak. Bought a rear heat exchanger last year and a bb spring
have not put them on yet.How long does it take to put the heat exc. on?
Will it help just putting the bb spring on and not doing anything with the shock?I was up to the U.P. last week my attak cornered terrible ordered some new triple points from scott bergstom took my ski's off today my
stock carbides were gone with just 900 miles and the drivers side rod was half worn down . I hope the new carbides on the stock ski's will do better
When I was riding up at the U.P. last week right before I got to greenland
I went in a sump hole on the trail it was about 1-1/2 feet deep the width
of the trail .the front end of my sled went down to the spark plugs.I got out went to Pats Yamaha in greenland told him what happened ask him if he had a mechanic to check my sled out he said pull it around back.The
mechanic washed the mud and weeds off ajusted the track belt ajusted the drive chain charged me 10.00 what a terrific bunch of people. THANKS PAT'S YAMAHA IN THE U.P.
 
I also bought a rear heat exchanger this year for my 07 Attak GT. I had the shop install it and they told me it took them 1 hr to do.
I also installed Bergstroms skags as I wore out the original with just 500 miles. I was not to crazy about the originals as they did a lot of darting and were very hard to break free from someones rut. Installed the Bergstroms and the darting is gone and its like I have power steering. Its like a new sled she now goes where I point her. I think you will like the Bergstroms, Good luck...Paul :Rockon:
 
Here are some pics of heat exhanger install....water wetter by redline is also a good thing to add after diluting mixture to 50/50 or so.

Be sure to bleed system to get air pockets all out.

hope this helps anyone doing the job...

Dan
 

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The attak installation is a little more involved than the short track install. The cooler rivets to the tunnel extension so some more measuring and drilling is required
 
Have you seen the new 08 LTX and the cooler that comes OEM? It has new tunnel protectors and cooler design..

If I was you I'd look into getting the protectors and the new cooler that matches them. Probably easy to install protectors.

I got a cooler last spring and it works but you have to cut the old protectors and fabricate new protectorswhich isn't easy.. without a welding shop behind you.

Go look under a ApexLTX...(same as ATTAK) you'll see what I mean.

Also with my ATTAK I was able to use a jig saw to cut out the window..Lot's of room outside and inside.
 
I put the cooler on my attak last week in my neighbors repair shop with his help. Much more involved with learning curve being the first time and having to fabricate tunnel protectors for a studded track. I then road it for 2 days at very slow speeds in temps above freezing with a beginner on my Rage one day and my youngest daughter on our polaris 340 the next and no over heating woes.
Interesting that Yamaha has rear coolers on the 3 cylinder motor starting in 06 and not on the 4cyl.
 
Is the new exchanger different or is it the same exchanger with a new part number and higher price. Thought I had read from Ulmer it was the same. I'd like to know as I have one of the old number exchangers here that I have not installed yet and was thinking of ordering the new protectors for when I install it.
 
Shootinstick said:
Is the new exchanger different or is it the same exchanger with a new part number and higher price. Thought I had read from Ulmer it was the same. I'd like to know as I have one of the old number exchangers here that I have not installed yet and was thinking of ordering the new protectors for when I install it.

It's very different..I've seen it and I have the older version in mine so I know the difference..

The new ones have a cut out in the fins for the protectors to sit in on their way to the back. It looked to have a slightly different profile..
The tunnel protectors are one piece from the front of the sled to the back bending up just before the cooler then along the cooler to the back extension plate were they are anchored.

go to Yami dealer and find if you can get the whole kit i.e. cooler and protectors.
 
rear heat exc.

Thanks Dan I am going to try putting the rear heat exc. and the BB Spring mon am if it is not to cold out in my garage and head to U.P. first week in feb. GARY : :die :jump:
 
sorry i didnt notice this was for an attack....my pics are obviously from my RTX......but hope they might help some still...

Dan
 
What is the part number for the rear cooler ? Im getting one for sure now. I overheated about 10 times in the U.P THIS WEEK. What the best way to drain the coolant ?

Thanks
 
Bone Daddy said:
What is the part number for the rear cooler ? Im getting one for sure now. I overheated about 10 times in the U.P THIS WEEK. What the best way to drain the coolant ?

Thanks

check with some aftermarket guys...i think they carry them too and cheaper...

you can lift front of sled up high when doing the job and you will drain alot out of the rear hoses when installing exhanger....i just added water and used my tester till she was at minus 34f....which is about 50/50.....then added water wetter too.

great peice of mind and no more worries when riding in certain conditions.

Dan
 
Also I filled my cooler with antifreeze just before installing and also poured some into the lines going to the front.. with the sled still up in the air. Then topping off the overflow tank.
I didn't have to bleed the cooler at the back. I rode it around for an 1/2 hr .
I just topped the overflow bottle off again and also opened the main cap to make sure it was full which it was..
 
On 07 Attak, I also lifted the back up about three feet and after taking off exhaust pipe trim and plastic wraparound trim, and cut slots like Rockerdan shows(a simple hacksaw blade works also), I took the crossover pipe off. Least amount of antifreeze draining when you do it this way. You have to cut 6 3/4 inches off tunnel protectors. I made a template of the seven smaller rivet holes on a thick piece of paper. Hold it over the exchanger and push a pencil through. I installed the new exchanger dry. I believe the two rivets you drilled out are 6mm(about 1/4 inch) so you will need a larger riveter to install, most regular riveters go to less than 1/4. You can buy it for about 60. or rent from body shop supply store... or some guys say they install a smaller size rivet ?? Wedge exchanger up tight to aluminum tunnel extension with a piece of wood. I think the back 4 holes can be drilled from underneath, and the middle three are blind so that's where the template comes in. After riveting, and reattaching hoses and clamps, I dropped the back end down, loosened the antifreeze reservoir cap, and then undid the bleeder screw on the exchanger. When antifreeze comes out steady stream, put screw back in. I lifted the back end up, and topped off the exchanger with a 2 dollar large syringe from drug store, with a piece of 12/2 plastic wire insulation ducttaped to it(after pulling the copper out). Then screw bolt back in, torque is 9.4 ft. lbs.. Reinstall plastic trim pieces on the back, lower back end down and topup antifreeze reservoir and overflow reservoir. I hope I remembered everything as it was a couple of months ago and my sled is not here to look at. This was the 8EP-RHECR-KT-00 heat exchanger. Hopefully the NEW style is the same install.
 


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