nytrose
Pro
whats the difference between the rear limiter strap and the white transfer blocks on the rail....dont they do the same thing.looks like the latter doesn't have any ajustments
skyboz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The rear limiter strap will reduce weight transfer (less wheelies) and the blocks basically stop the rear arm. The blocks are not adjustable, but the farther you pull down the rear strap the closer the rear arm is to the blocks! I had AC blocks on last year and it greatly reduced the weight transfer because the rear arm was always so close to the blocks. This year I decided to put the stock blocks back on and pulled down the rear strap. I think this set up will help out the handling a little more versus the different blocks!
nytrose
Pro
Thanks
How many holes would you suggest to pull it down/.
How many holes would you suggest to pull it down/.
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
You always want to make changes in small increments. I am going off Hygear's suggestion of lowering the rear limiter strap one hole. Start with that and see how it is.
Take the time to set your suspension sag.
Take the time to set your suspension sag.
rz918
Extreme
Hey lucky, when you say set suspension sag, what exactly do you need to do. I am clueless on this.
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
What you want to do is get all of your snowmobile garb on and sit on the sled, then you will need someone to measure the distance from your coupler block to the scissor arm. This measurement should be on the top of the limiter block at that same angle. From Bruce at Pioneer suspension, he suggests a 14-22 mm gap from the block to the arm. Use your settings on the torsion springs (S, M, H) to set the right height. Your torsion springs are only there to set your ride height.
Also, one other thing, get off the sled and push down on the rear bumper and let it go. When you let it go, it should not top out the suspension. In other words let go of the bumber, once it stops, you should be able to pull up on it again without it topping out.
Hope this helps.
Also, one other thing, get off the sled and push down on the rear bumper and let it go. When you let it go, it should not top out the suspension. In other words let go of the bumber, once it stops, you should be able to pull up on it again without it topping out.
Hope this helps.
sd5500
Expert
I'm about 180lbs with full gear and my setting is M, is that ok?lucky_7 said:What you want to do is get all of your snowmobile garb on and sit on the sled, then you will need someone to measure the distance from your coupler block to the scissor arm. This measurement should be on the top of the limiter block at that same angle. From Bruce at Pioneer suspension, he suggests a 14-22 mm gap from the block to the arm. Use your settings on the torsion springs (S, M, H) to set the right height. Your torsion springs are only there to set your ride height.
Also, one other thing, get off the sled and push down on the rear bumper and let it go. When you let it go, it should not top out the suspension. In other words let go of the bumber, once it stops, you should be able to pull up on it again without it topping out.
Hope this helps.
I notice when I push down on the rear bumber it will actually pretty much stay in that position. In other words, it does not come back up at all unless I lift from the bumber. Should I be concerned about that?
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
If I were you, I would start on S (Soft). Skyboz weighs about as much as you do and figured that soft his for his weight.
So when you push down, it stays where you let go, now matter how low? I don't think that is right, it should come back about 90 percent of the way.
So when you push down, it stays where you let go, now matter how low? I don't think that is right, it should come back about 90 percent of the way.
Billock12345
Extreme
I started out with it set very soft. and around 300 miles it suddenly got really soft so I put it back to the original settings and then the suspension was really great. its stiff in the beginning but once it breaks in it smooths out. good luck with your 08................Im about 165 with my gear on.
sd5500
Expert
lucky_7 said:So when you push down, it stays where you let go, now matter how low? I don't think that is right, it should come back about 90 percent of the way.
Just checked it. I push down all the way (not engaging the shocks) and it only comes back up about 25-30%. I have to lift to get it all the way back up. I greased all the zerts I could find, which was 7.
sorry, not trying to hijack this thread.
rimmer
Newbie
My XTX is the same way. It has about 2-3 inches of sag all the time and I am on H setting. If I lift the front of the sled so the shocks are topped out and lift the back of the sled up the front of the track is an inch off the ground. Is this the way the XTX is suppose to be?
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