speedjunky
Extreme
Any body have a good trick to getting the rear suspension back in the sled. I just changed my track and having a hell of a time getting it back in.
Tirebuster
Lifetime Member
Did it a long time ago, but if I remember right it's easier if you disconnect the
suspension transfer rod.
suspension transfer rod.
APEX 06
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Tirebuster said:Did it a long time ago, but if I remember right it's easier if you disconnect the
suspension transfer rod.
X2 the easiest way to do it. And to get the back in after the front you are going to need a jack and a ratchet stap.
zeke66
Expert
Mine's a nytro but same thing should help, I used 2 ratchet straps to compress the skid a few inches. That and tie the belt up obviously.
TRUE BLUE SINCE 1980
Expert
I think i put a 4X4 under the front of the track and skid. ( on the floor) and let the weight of the sled down on it , that compresses the suspension enough to get the bolts started. I just cant remember if you hook the back up first or the front. ( if you are like me you will only be wrong 3 times or so.)
speedjunky
Extreme
Thanks, I think unhooking the transfer rod will help. Also the ratchet strap idea is good too. Thanks guys.
I think unbolting the limiter strap helps. I bolt the front first, then the back, then the extra rear wheels and axle. I have an attak
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
Had a bugger of a time with mine last year as well, I had the transfer rod unbolted, the track completely slack but I still couldn't get the rear bolts to line up (after being told multiple times it should just fall into place?)
Long story short, I had to lay on the garage floor and push my foot on the upper idlers hard then have my wife (who was thrilled!) put the bolts in.
The skid came out so easy (compared to my XLT) that I thought it would be real easy going back in as well, but I was way wrong!
Long story short, I had to lay on the garage floor and push my foot on the upper idlers hard then have my wife (who was thrilled!) put the bolts in.
The skid came out so easy (compared to my XLT) that I thought it would be real easy going back in as well, but I was way wrong!
Super Sled
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It really help to have another able bodied person there, who is at least somewhat mechanically inclined, to help you. Going at it alone makes it 10X harder to get the skid in there.
jat59
Lifetime Member
I pull mine every year to grease the wheels. I have to do everything myself (no helper around). What I found, and makes it a snap, I disconnect one end of the transfer rod, one end of the shock, and the limiter strap. Yeah, its a little extra work to hook it all up again, but doing the skid install yourself is a snap.
Yamahammer485
TY 4 Stroke Guru
The trick I use is to unbolt one end of the transfer rod, and use ratchet straps coming from the A-arm (lower and near bulkhead) and wrapped around the shaft tube in the main arm. Once tightened up, its a one man job, just got to lower the skid into the sled. Also, pulling apart the tunnel at the same time allows the bushings not to get destroyed, therefore, having someone else to operate the jack is better.
suprfst
Lifetime Member
Ok the transfer rod is real easy. With sled on floor sitting lay accross seat side ways and reach down and undo back transfer rod bolt. Reverse to install. Your body weight , well at least mine, compresses the suspension enough that theres no presure on the bolt when your laying accross it. this is the very first and very last step I do in removing and replacing rear skid.
AS far as everything else...... My 05 I had to put a port a power inside the tunnel everytime to get tunnel spread apart enough to get front arm up in there, I was always incredibly tight. For me, start with front arm bolts first then do rear. I use a chain fall/electric hoist and lower down chasis to suspension (after front bolts are in) to just about ride height to get rear bolts in. Lift up with one hand the rear arm and it will swing up allmost into place. The height is critical. You can actually use a screwdiver in the holes on the rear metal bracket against upper bogie wheel and pry the shaft to get it to line up. Be very carefull though as if it slips the rear arm will drop.
Its never fun but thats my tricks.
AS far as everything else...... My 05 I had to put a port a power inside the tunnel everytime to get tunnel spread apart enough to get front arm up in there, I was always incredibly tight. For me, start with front arm bolts first then do rear. I use a chain fall/electric hoist and lower down chasis to suspension (after front bolts are in) to just about ride height to get rear bolts in. Lift up with one hand the rear arm and it will swing up allmost into place. The height is critical. You can actually use a screwdiver in the holes on the rear metal bracket against upper bogie wheel and pry the shaft to get it to line up. Be very carefull though as if it slips the rear arm will drop.
Its never fun but thats my tricks.
speedjunky
Extreme
Thanks guys just got it all back in. I used your tricks of unhooking the transfer rod and the shock but still had such a hard time. Then I noticed that I didn't losen the rear axle!
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