REDUCE INSIDE SKI LIFT WITH GYTR SHOCKS ADJUSTED PROPERLY

[Timeline]

Current setup on my apex with gytrs revalved by shocktec: Spring preload zero compression full soft and rebound around 10-12 clicks out! Handles really well with trackers and transfer rod set close to min. Limiter strap factory holes. The revalve stiffened compression so if the shocks are stock valving you should be around 6 clicks out on compression.

Frank @ Shocktec re-valved my shocks as well. No preload on spring compression. A arms are almost level. Compression two from full soft and rebound are close to yours.

Limiter one up from factory. May lower to original because I replaced front arm this year with updated 08 arm and I feel it may be a little too much because of the increase in diameter of top pipe that the limiter wraps around.

Inside ski lift is drastically reduced when your shock isn't so soft during initial compression while entering a turn. Proper valving fixes this. Harder compression is then required when compressed in bumps further down the shock travel and speed of that compression. Bigger sway bar makes it hard at all times. They also take away from the independent action tranfering suspension action to both sides which in effect makes it rougher. Each side cannot absorb as well but act more as one.

I removed my 13mm sway bar after my revalve and reinstalled the stock bar.

Although I don't ride on a snowcross track, there is a reason why snowcross racers remove the factory sway bars right away and work on shock setup.

Different strokes for diff,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,aw you know what I mean.

 

[JROCK]

Current setup on my apex with gytrs revalved by shocktec: Spring preload zero compression full soft and rebound around 10-12 clicks out! Handles really well with trackers and transfer rod set close to min. Limiter strap factory holes. The revalve stiffened compression so if the shocks are stock valving you should be around 6 clicks out on compression.

Frank @ Shocktec re-valved my shocks as well. No preload on spring compression. A arms are almost level. Compression two from full soft and rebound are close to yours.

Limiter one up from factory. May lower to original because I replaced front arm this year with updated 08 arm and I feel it may be a little too much because of the increase in diameter of top pipe that the limiter wraps around.

Inside ski lift is drastically reduced when your shock isn't so soft during initial compression while entering a turn. Proper valving fixes this. Harder compression is then required when compressed in bumps further down the shock travel and speed of that compression. Bigger sway bar makes it hard at all times. They also take away from the independent action tranfering suspension action to both sides which in effect makes it rougher. Each side cannot absorb as well but act more as one.

I removed my 13mm sway bar after my revalve and reinstalled the stock bar.

Although I don't ride on a snowcross track, there is a reason why snowcross racers remove the factory sway bars right away and work on shock setup.

Different strokes for diff,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,aw you know what I mean.

I experienced the same feeling with the 13mm bar. Rode with revalved shocks and after first ride removed for the the stock bar. Too much feedback in the bars and just felt too stiff in the front end. Also i feel alot of the handling issue are with the rider. With these sleds you really have to just be as smooth as possible. keep a steady throttle through the turn to keep the sled balanced and dont pin it until your done the turn. If you are flipping the throttle in the corner your gonna lift the ski especially at speed. Other technique that works is come into the turn hot off the throttle so the weight is shifted to the skis and coast through the corner then back on the gas after the corner. These work the best for me. Now only if i can the steering effort and little lighter. Powersteering is im my future.

 

[Irv]

Current setup on my apex with gytrs revalved by shocktec: Spring preload zero compression full soft and rebound around 10-12 clicks out! Handles really well with trackers and transfer rod set close to min. Limiter strap factory holes. The revalve stiffened compression so if the shocks are stock valving you should be around 6 clicks out on compression.

Frank @ Shocktec re-valved my shocks as well. No preload on spring compression. A arms are almost level. Compression two from full soft and rebound are close to yours.

Limiter one up from factory. May lower to original because I replaced front arm this year with updated 08 arm and I feel it may be a little too much because of the increase in diameter of top pipe that the limiter wraps around.

Inside ski lift is drastically reduced when your shock isn't so soft during initial compression while entering a turn. Proper valving fixes this. Harder compression is then required when compressed in bumps further down the shock travel and speed of that compression. Bigger sway bar makes it hard at all times. They also take away from the independent action tranfering suspension action to both sides which in effect makes it rougher. Each side cannot absorb as well but act more as one.

I removed my 13mm sway bar after my revalve and reinstalled the stock bar.

Although I don't ride on a snowcross track, there is a reason why snowcross racers remove the factory sway bars right away and work on shock setup.

Different strokes for diff,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,aw you know what I mean.

Timeline, curious if you had your rear mono revalved/rebuilt by Frank as well?
I am thinking about sending him mine but would like some real world feedback first. (probably send him my front GYTR's as well)

 

[**sj**]

12mm sway bar is the compromise...the body roll is usually from sitting on not in the suspension...sit in needs to be adjusted..

and good progressive valving wont bring a harsh ride and will help

 

[ZapeX2]

Irv..... when I had my mono in my sled I sent my shock to Frank and I highly recommend him. He was great to deal with and the skid was vastly improved with the revalve from him. Good price as well if I remember correctly...

 

[Timeline]

Irv,

Yes he did. I brought him all three at once. He did a great job on the EC Ohlins too. His revalve / rebuild made a huge difference on how it works. Ohlins spring couldn't support sag anymore after getting close to 10,000 miles on it. I installed a 6.1 spring and that together with the rebuild / revalve made it a different handling sled. Once setup to my taste, I'm enjoying the change.

I'd recommend him, and I will be going back.

Current setup on my apex with gytrs revalved by shocktec: Spring preload zero compression full soft and rebound around 10-12 clicks out! Handles really well with trackers and transfer rod set close to min. Limiter strap factory holes. The revalve stiffened compression so if the shocks are stock valving you should be around 6 clicks out on compression.

Frank @ Shocktec re-valved my shocks as well. No preload on spring compression. A arms are almost level. Compression two from full soft and rebound are close to yours.

Limiter one up from factory. May lower to original because I replaced front arm this year with updated 08 arm and I feel it may be a little too much because of the increase in diameter of top pipe that the limiter wraps around.

Inside ski lift is drastically reduced when your shock isn't so soft during initial compression while entering a turn. Proper valving fixes this. Harder compression is then required when compressed in bumps further down the shock travel and speed of that compression. Bigger sway bar makes it hard at all times. They also take away from the independent action tranfering suspension action to both sides which in effect makes it rougher. Each side cannot absorb as well but act more as one.

I removed my 13mm sway bar after my revalve and reinstalled the stock bar.

Although I don't ride on a snowcross track, there is a reason why snowcross racers remove the factory sway bars right away and work on shock setup.

Different strokes for diff,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,aw you know what I mean.

Timeline, curious if you had your rear mono revalved/rebuilt by Frank as well?
I am thinking about sending him mine but would like some real world feedback first. (probably send him my front GYTR's as well)

 

[andrew1984]

i removed my 13mm bar completely after my revalve and i am very happy. no bump steer feed back from bumps and the compliance is great.

 

[Irv]

Irv,

Yes he did. I brought him all three at once. He did a great job on the EC Ohlins too. His revalve / rebuild made a huge difference on how it works. Ohlins spring couldn't support sag anymore after getting close to 10,000 miles on it. I installed a 6.1 spring and that together with the rebuild / revalve made it a different handling sled. Once setup to my taste, I'm enjoying the change.

I'd recommend him, and I will be going back.

Current setup on my apex with gytrs revalved by shocktec: Spring preload zero compression full soft and rebound around 10-12 clicks out! Handles really well with trackers and transfer rod set close to min. Limiter strap factory holes. The revalve stiffened compression so if the shocks are stock valving you should be around 6 clicks out on compression.

Frank @ Shocktec re-valved my shocks as well. No preload on spring compression. A arms are almost level. Compression two from full soft and rebound are close to yours.

Limiter one up from factory. May lower to original because I replaced front arm this year with updated 08 arm and I feel it may be a little too much because of the increase in diameter of top pipe that the limiter wraps around.

Inside ski lift is drastically reduced when your shock isn't so soft during initial compression while entering a turn. Proper valving fixes this. Harder compression is then required when compressed in bumps further down the shock travel and speed of that compression. Bigger sway bar makes it hard at all times. They also take away from the independent action tranfering suspension action to both sides which in effect makes it rougher. Each side cannot absorb as well but act more as one.

I removed my 13mm sway bar after my revalve and reinstalled the stock bar.

Although I don't ride on a snowcross track, there is a reason why snowcross racers remove the factory sway bars right away and work on shock setup.

Different strokes for diff,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,aw you know what I mean.

Timeline, curious if you had your rear mono revalved/rebuilt by Frank as well?
I am thinking about sending him mine but would like some real world feedback first. (probably send him my front GYTR's as well)

Thanks for the info you guys, appreciate it!

 

[turbine tester]

I set mine like this 6 on top and 10 on bottom and arms parallel, didn't touch them again.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPKrqxQTWlU

 

[Irv]

I set mine like this 6 on top and 10 on bottom and arms parallel, didn't touch them again.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPKrqxQTWlU

I forget exactly what my fronts are set at, but I think they are similar?

Friday, I had a great ride and I finally think I have my Mono set to where it has given me my best ride yet.

Still going to send them to Frank at shoctek, including my fronts as all 3 will be due for a freshening up anyways, but I must say Friday's ride was great and I think I finally found my sweet spot with my rear mono.
(Only took 3yrs! )