Removing clutch weights to install rivets, is it hard to do.

[russellrox]

I am needing to change the clutch weights for my altitude since the stock mtx's are weighted for like 10,000 feet, my elevation is about 2000 to 2300 feet, does anyone have any info on how to change these or any pics. Dealer wants 100 bucks to adjust to proper elevation, what do ya think.

 

[smalltownpower]

on the clutch cover remove 3 of the 10mm bolts (1 from each corner) then slowly, evenly remove the remaining three. the clutch cover and spring will then come off. you'll now be able to remove the weights.

 

[tapex_07]

After you pull the arms out, you'll be able to put the right size rivet in the holes on the arms. Once you do the first one, its a cake walk with the other two arms.

 

[Mtnviper]

They're pretty easy to change. To remove the old ones, partially drill the head of the rivit, then support the weight in a vise and drive it out with a center punch.
When installing the new ones, just lay them on top of a vise and smash'em down with a ball peen hammer.

I made a rivit removal tool that makes the job even easier. I got the plans for it right here on TY in the tech pages

I did have to add a dog-leg to the upper slot for the newer 3 hole weights used in the XTX. It was easy to do so using a drill press and rat tail file.
Bill

 

[dutchie]

my sled been running good so far , knock on wood

, a quick question , are they all set up when new at 10,000 ft , nytro's MTX

i been running up in the mountains '' crowsnest area , but never that high i'm sure , would it be worth my while to adjust it ,

or this just a round about figure , and i'd be wasting my time , as it wouldn't improve anything

 

[Mtnviper]

dutchie
All the MTXs come from the factory set-up for 10,000'. (Your dealer may have already set it up for your elevation)
If your riding at 8000' to 9000' the factory set-up should be pretty close and work well.
The way that you can tell if the primary clutch is set-up to "light", is if the engine over-revs consistantly when you have the flipper to the bar.
If it only over-revs once in awhile when on loose snow or ice, that is considered normal for the most part.
8700 to 9000 rpms at wide open throttle is the sweet spot for Nytros that are stock.
Another thing to keep in mind is that four strokes will usually gain some rpm as they break in from new. So it is fairly common to have to add a little more rivit weight to the primary after the sled has about a 1000 miles or more on it.

Bill

 

[dutchie]

thanks bill for the advice

, i'll keep a eye & ear open for when i get to the 1000 miles , i'm at the 300 mile mark now , i never got it from a dealer , second hand at 150 miles on it , so i'm thinking it must of been set up at the 10000 feet , anyway i could tell by looking at it , say like certain marks it would have or spots

 

[Mtnviper]

thanks bill for the advice

, i'll keep a eye & ear open for when i get to the 1000 miles , i'm at the 300 mile mark now , i never got it from a dealer , second hand at 150 miles on it , so i'm thinking it must of been set up at the 10000 feet , anyway i could tell by looking at it , say like certain marks it would have or spots

Sometimes some dealers will mark the tuning information on the belt guard.

If theres no information there, then the best way to tell, is to remove the belt and pull the 6 bolts that hold the primary clutch cover on. Then slide the moveable sheave and inspect the weights for tuning rivits in the holes. If there are no rivits in the weights, then it's set up for 10,000'
When you go to reinstall the cover, there is a "X" cast into the cover and the spider. Be sure to align the "X"s when bolting it back together.
I like to tighten the 6 bolts evenly and the torque spec for the 6 cover bolts is 10 ft-lbs or 14Nm

Bill

 

[russellrox]

thanks bill for the advice

, i'll keep a eye & ear open for when i get to the 1000 miles , i'm at the 300 mile mark now , i never got it from a dealer , second hand at 150 miles on it , so i'm thinking it must of been set up at the 10000 feet , anyway i could tell by looking at it , say like certain marks it would have or spots

Sometimes some dealers will mark the tuning information on the belt guard.

If theres no information there, then the best way to tell, is to remove the belt and pull the 6 bolts that hold the primary clutch cover on. Then slide the moveable sheave and inspect the weights for tuning rivits in the holes. If there are no rivits in the weights, then it's set up for 10,000'
When you go to reinstall the cover, there is a "X" cast into the cover and the spider. Be sure to align the "X"s when bolting it back together.
I like to tighten the 6 bolts evenly and the torque spec for the 6 cover bolts is 10 ft-lbs or 14Nm

Guess that's what my sled is set up for then, I had no rivets in the weights at all, I added 1 thick rivet for each weights but I think I installed the rivets in the wrong location, it didn't change it at all, I thought I was installing them on the top, but turns out it was the heel, tomorrow will get same weights and drill out the ones I installed before and redo it, will keep you guys posted.

Bill

 

[dutchie]

Great info to know bill, I"m back out in the hills today , still taking it easy some till that roll over shut off valve and kill switch gets here. With luck it will be this week

Nothing written on my belt cover. So must be factory set. , I won"t fool with it till it starts acting up.