Replacing Single Shot Upper Carrier Wheels

[RobX-1]

Needed to replace one of my upper carrier wheels on my Single Shot suspension so bought two new ones and will keep the other for a spare but now have a question after removing them and the inner shaft. Threading the bolt into the shaft and then using a punch & dead-blow/sledge hammer (or even an air hammer) against the head of that bolt got the one wheel off and then used my vise to straddle the shaft with the other wheel still on it and remove the other wheel using the punch/hammer method.

Knowing they were pressed on, does one need to remove the pivot arm from the suspension and use a press to re-install the wheels or has anyone had success with possibly freezing the inner shaft and then using a heat gun to heat the inner race of the bearing? With having a pressed-on fit, wasn't sure if the freeze/heat trick would work or not so wanted to see what others have done. If the freeze trick does work, does it require a two-step where you first freeze the shaft and heat the bearing race for the one side, install, then freeze the shaft and wheel again, and then repeat but this time insert the shaft into the pivot arm before heating the other wheel's bearing race and installing?

 

[MrSled]

View attachment 179295

Needed to replace one of my upper carrier wheels on my Single Shot suspension so bought two new ones and will keep the other for a spare but now have a question after removing them and the inner shaft. Threading the bolt into the shaft and then using a punch & dead-blow/sledge hammer (or even an air hammer) against the head of that bolt got the one wheel off and then used my vise to straddle the shaft with the other wheel still on it and remove the other wheel using the punch/hammer method.

Knowing they were pressed on, does one need to remove the pivot arm from the suspension and use a press to re-install the wheels or has anyone had success with possibly freezing the inner shaft and then using a heat gun to heat the inner race of the bearing? With having a pressed-on fit, wasn't sure if the freeze/heat trick would work or not so wanted to see what others have done. If the freeze trick does work, does it require a two-step where you first freeze the shaft and heat the bearing race for the one side, install, then freeze the shaft and wheel again, and then repeat but this time insert the shaft into the pivot arm before heating the other wheel's bearing race and installing?

I take an oversized deep well socket or pipe that goes over the shaft and hammer them on.

 

[pdiddy]

I like your idea of freezing the shaft and heating the bearing race. I'd try to do it all in one go while the shaft is still cold. When I did mine last year I just beat them on with a deep socket like Mr Sled said. Took several attempts to get them off though. I ended up mashing the bolt heads a bit and had to go up a socket size when re-installing in the tunnel. Note to self - order new bolts!

 

[maim]

hammer on with a socket/pipe is pretty much how i do them all the time. i will cheat a bit and leave the wheel close to the heater with the bearing installed before i hammer it on. i also use a ratchet strap to hold tension on the installed wheel to the shock mount s that it cannot slide out when installing the other wheel when in the sled.

 

[74Nitro]

I have those gold colored spacers kicking around that were used on the 97-04 yamahas in that spot. They work similar to the socket, but the fit is perfect.

 

[CaptCaper]

View attachment 179295

Needed to replace one of my upper carrier wheels on my Single Shot suspension so bought two new ones and will keep the other for a spare but now have a question after removing them and the inner shaft. Threading the bolt into the shaft and then using a punch & dead-blow/sledge hammer (or even an air hammer) against the head of that bolt got the one wheel off and then used my vise to straddle the shaft with the other wheel still on it and remove the other wheel using the punch/hammer method.

Knowing they were pressed on, does one need to remove the pivot arm from the suspension and use a press to re-install the wheels or has anyone had success with possibly freezing the inner shaft and then using a heat gun to heat the inner race of the bearing? With having a pressed-on fit, wasn't sure if the freeze/heat trick would work or not so wanted to see what others have done. If the freeze trick does work, does it require a two-step where you first freeze the shaft and heat the bearing race for the one side, install, then freeze the shaft and wheel again, and then repeat but this time insert the shaft into the pivot arm before heating the other wheel's bearing race and installing?

Did your wheel have a bearing loosen and along with the c clip come out of the wheel? Mine did on my xtx single shot. I was going to do it but realized it would be a hassle. I've had some health issues and didn't want to wrestle with them. I do not like this single shot at all. Adjusting the track is harder,serviceing the upper wheels is harder, dropping those wheels to loosen the track to service other wheels is a pia. Right about now I'd love to get a 15 ltx and off this 2016 xtx.

 

[RobX-1]

No, the reason for replacing the one upper carrier wheel wasn't due to the bearing/c-clip coming loose but due to some yahoo riding a Ski Doo up on Houghton Lake last year not seeing me on my Apex as I was sitting parked on that lake on a clear sunny day to check the trail map on my GPS and rear ended me. He could not have hit me more square where his skis straddle the rear of my Apex but his one ski did get into the idler wheel where it jacked up the wheel. Fortunately, no one was hurt and was able to man-handle idler wheel back to point I could get sled back to cabin.

As for your love, or lack there of your XTX, I have over 10k on my 18 XTX and that was even with the Fox Float. I believe you either upgraded to the Fox shock for the Single Shot or you upgraded to the Hygear but when my Fox finally went out, well after over 10k, I opted to stick with the same and hope to get another 10k on this one. As for servicing/removing the Single Shot, I find it much easier than compared to doing the same with the Mono in my 08 Apex.

 

[CaptCaper]

No, the reason for replacing the one upper carrier wheel wasn't due to the bearing/c-clip coming loose but due to some yahoo riding a Ski Doo up on Houghton Lake last year not seeing me on my Apex as I was sitting parked on that lake on a clear sunny day to check the trail map on my GPS and rear ended me. He could not have hit me more square where his skis straddle the rear of my Apex but his one ski did get into the idler wheel where it jacked up the wheel. Fortunately, no one was hurt and was able to man-handle idler wheel back to point I could get sled back to cabin.

As for your love, or lack there of your XTX, I have over 10k on my 18 XTX and that was even with the Fox Float. I believe you either upgraded to the Fox shock for the Single Shot or you upgraded to the Hygear but when my Fox finally went out, well after over 10k, I opted to stick with the same and hope to get another 10k on this one. As for servicing/removing the Single Shot, I find it much easier than compared to doing the same with the Mono in my 08 Apex.

Early on I upgraded to Hygear coil over. I have taken out the monos more then a few times. Still I wish I had a 15 ltx.