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Replacing stop/kill switch on 2009/10 Vector

Geoty

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Dec 15, 2017
Messages
6
Age
69
Location
Ontario
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2009/10 Vector
Trying to deal with a broken stop/kill switch button on a 2009/10 Vector. I say 2009/10 because this is technically a 2009 model but has the 2010 fuel injected engine (I guess it was an early release or something). Looking at the parts list for these 2 years the stop switch (red button - 8GL-86284-09) is not available on the 2009 parts list but is available on the 2010 - and my local dealer had one in stock suggesting it is reasonably standard. Is there actually any difference between the years or is it just that Yamaha didn't sell it separately in 2009?

Assuming that the one I got off the 2010 parts list is correct does anyone have any advice on how to perform the replacement? My dealer said that it is "challenging" although the last post in this thread (https://ty4stroke.com/threads/kill-switch-button-apex.56795/ ) suggests that on the Apex it is pretty easy (wondering if that comment would apply to the Vector as well). The Service Manual is completely unhelpful on this point (simply saying in effect "if it doesn't work, replace it").
 
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Your sled IS a '10.

The tag on the tunnel will say x/'09 (x meaning month built) but it's a '10.

So, yes the kill switch you need is for a '10 model.

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Your sled IS a '10.

The tag on the tunnel will say x/'09 (x meaning month built) but it's a '10.

So, yes the kill switch you need is for a '10 model.

Thanks. I can't go to look at the sled itself right now but the VIN number indicates an '09 though (the 10th digit is a 9 not an "A" - see http://www.snowmobilestyle.com/archives/snowmobile-vin-number.html).

The exploded parts diagram for the switch for the two years is identical except for the fact that in the 2010 the button is separate from the assembly whereas in the 2009 it is integrated.

2009 - https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003c6d8f8700212fc842e6d/handle-switch-lever

2010 - https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003c88ef8700212fc84359e/handle-switch-lever
 
Unless someone did a swap?

You the original owner?

Here's my VIN. Dated '09, but A indicates '10 model.

Something doesn't add up on your sled. Either an engine swap, or it was wrecked, and an '09 tunnel swapped on.

86f741dca5324bb87fb285d46213abd4.jpg


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Unless someone did a swap?

You the original owner?

Here's my VIN. Dated '09, but A indicates '10 model.

Something doesn't add up on your sled. Either an engine swap, or it was wrecked, and an '09 tunnel swapped on

It was originally owned by a Yamaha employee who would have had the ability to purchase units that were not yet available to the public. Where your VIN says AA mine says 9A. Definitely an ‘09.
 
I completely believe what you say about the VIN.

I am however sticking to my guns that there is something fishy though. Of which I think is a motor swap.

Just because he worked for Yamaha as a whatever he said he was for them, to me anyhow, doesn't make him privy to have essentially a prototype, or own something that's not available to john q public. And prototypes are not numbered/titled/VIN'd either. Again, just my opinion. Please don't take it personal, but I feel the previous owner wasn't honest with you as to why an '09 model has the FI 1049.

Non the less, I'd say you need a kill switch for an '10 since it's been swapped to the FI engine & associated electronics.

May I ask where you are from?

Because there was a Vector for sale near me, near Madison WI last year that had a 1049 swap into what was an '08 or '09 973 carb Vector chassis.

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Thanks. Hoping you are right about the ‘10 switch. Also hoping we can install it ok as it sounds tricky. Any advice on that process would be welcome.

I am from the greater Toronto area BTW
 
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Wrapping this up - the 2010 part worked fine. It was not that challenging to replace it after all - you do, however, have to be careful not to drop all the little parts (have a helper hold a tray underneath the assembly when working on it to catch anything that you do accidentally drop). We had to put a screw in the bottom part of the broken red button and pull it up in order to raise it to the "run" position (needle nose pliers didn't do the job). You could not complete the disassembly with the button in the "stop" position.
 
Good to hear. [emoji41]

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