smokingcrater
Expert
So short of using "The Force", I'm just not seeing how that bottom bolt is coming out. The engine is about as far forward as it will go, I think the throttle and choke cables are limiting at this point. Any tips?
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
Grizztracks has a very good sticky on here on how to do it....give that a read....but I take carbs right off and pull valve cover and bring up to top dead center on 1 cylinder then zip Ty the chain to the cams so you don't jump time then you have to get the engine as far forward as possible then it will come out
smokingcrater
Expert
I've followed the writeup to a T. Just stuck at this point. I may have to pull the carbs yet I guess.
smokingcrater
Expert
umm, just realized something on my own pic... That is a blue mark on there! Is that the 'new tensioner' blue mark? The previous owner said he is the original owner, and he confirmed the tensioner had not been done. Even looking at the pic, it looks like the tensioner might be a little cleaner/shinier than the block.
**edit, nevermind... Not sure what that blue is, there is a very clear orange dot on the body though.**
**edit, nevermind... Not sure what that blue is, there is a very clear orange dot on the body though.**
sparks49
Extreme
I just finished doing both of my Vectors, the first one was a royal pain, the second one actually went much smoother. From the looks of your picture, you've got everything where you need it. I was able to access the bottom bolt coming in from the rear of the sled through the gas tank space, then using a 1/4" drive ratchet with a short extension, I was able to break it loose. Once you have it loose, I actually used a magnetic tipped tool and just more or less "unscrewed it", once it's free it actually spins really easy. It's not a piece of cake, but it's definitely doable. Don't give up, I'm sure you can do it. By the way, make sure to use the zip ties on the cam chain to avoid anything jumping time, I followed Grizztracks directions and everything came out great.smokingcrater said:
Good Luck,
John
smokingcrater
Expert
Just got it out!! So what made it easier was removing the spacer entirely. Once I had that out, I gave it a little more of a nudge with a pry bar, and it was enough to get a 1/4 u joint drive on it. (a 1/4 drive air socket made life easier!) One word of advice, do the BOTTOM bolt first! Whatever bolt you do last is going to be fighting the tension for most of its threads. It would have been much easier to deal with that on the top one.
Now the wait for new parts begins...
(and yep, chain is zip tied... I've done more than enough timing belts on vehicles to ALWAYS secure cams and belts... I did my subaru last year, that was a joy... With a flat 4 DOHC boxer engine, the timing belt is about 3 miles long. Two of the cams have constant tension on them, and want to spin the instant you look at them wrong.
Now the wait for new parts begins...
(and yep, chain is zip tied... I've done more than enough timing belts on vehicles to ALWAYS secure cams and belts... I did my subaru last year, that was a joy... With a flat 4 DOHC boxer engine, the timing belt is about 3 miles long. Two of the cams have constant tension on them, and want to spin the instant you look at them wrong.
sparks49
Extreme
Oh yeah, if you didn't take out the spacer, it would probably be virtually impossible to get that bottom bolt out. Glad everything went well.smokingcrater said:
grizztracks
Tech Advisor
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
- Messages
- 3,110
- Age
- 60
- Location
- Scio, NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- FX Nytro RTX, RS Vector, SR Viper RTX SE
Yes, you need to remove the engine spacer to gain access to the tensioner. I found a right angle bit driver at Lowe's that makes removing the tensioner bolts much easier. All you need is the 1/4" drive end of the ratchet instead of an 8mm wrench or socket.
Kobalt Right Angle Bit Driver #0338358
Kobalt Right Angle Bit Driver #0338358
bcporsche
Extreme
I've only done one, my wifes 07 Rage. turned into all day project with my friend and I. About 7-8hrs...I guess if I did another would go quicker...But hey, only cost me price of part. Didn't have to pay dealers price. And I learned something.. Yes I followed someones post to a tee. 
smokingcrater
Expert
Finished it up and it runs great! About the only words of advice is to be EXTREMELY careful when you zip tie the chain. In particular, be careful clipping them. I was firmly holding on the ties, but as I clipped one of them, the small lock piece flew off on its own... My worst fear was that it dropped down into the area where the chain goes to the crank sprocket. No idea how I would have gotten that out! Luckily it missed and ended up on the metal lip by the oil change plate.
