Replacing the speedo driveshaft bearing, again.......

[Stubbs]

Yes. Set screws secure the bearing collar to the drive shaft just inside the tunnel.

 

[JERSEYJOE]

Funny on my 06 APEX I check it and it needs replacement a lot, on my 2001 SRX I grease it every year and it has only been changed once

 

[Sasquatch]

They always look good until you pull them out, wash out the grease, and feel how rough the bearing is.
My sleds both had roughly 6500 miles each and I had greased them every year. They looked clean, but I was replacing the drive shaft on my Attack and checked the bearing whilst it was out. I'm glad I did. I pulled the bearing from my Apex and it was much the same.
I'm sure they would have continued on fine, but for $20, from now on I'm thinking of replacing them at 5K intervals.
I did check my friends 2012 sled with the plastic cover and his looked great at 1500 miles. I'm thinking of adding the plastic cover to my sleds.
Does anyone know if you have to remove the drive shaft to install these?

I have no problem with your Preventive maintenance, I applaud it. When I replaced the bearings at 8,000 miles because I was installing a new track. Only the Jack Shaft bearing secondary side was rough a bit. All the other bearings where smooth as silk. It is better to put in new ones then reassemble with old so I did them all.

I then lost the speedo bearing in basicly one year of riding. I blamed it on the NTN bearing I put in. Bought the Toyo bearings and replaced the whole works while it was apart and found the NTN in the chaincase bottom to be rough. Lost faith in NTN bearings (bought them from Royal Distributing) but apparently that is what Yami is using now from what some have said. NTN does have a higher quality bearing and a standard bearing. Put the High quality bearings 15 bucks apiece in skid on the back idler wheels because that was all I could find in town and I needed them now. We will see how those last.

 

[kviper]

The inner race of the bearing sticks through to the inside of the tunnel, two Torx set screw's lock it to the drive shaft.

 

[Teamblue4]

Where r the set screws? Under the tunnel?

yes, the set screws are on the inside of the tunnel on the bearing.

 

[icebreaker]

Where r the set screws? Under the tunnel?

Another way o make your bearing last longer is when you buy a new one take the seal off of the old one and slip it on the new bearing on the back side for a shield it works great on the older ones that don't have the plastic shield. I do it to every ones bearing that I change for them. Then grease in the spring time before you put the machine away, you will get 10,000 miles out of it.

 

[Hartatac]

1. Loosen track
2. Elevate back of sled
3. Loosen two set screws in bearing collar.
4. Pop off hood and left side panel.
5. Remove nuts that hold speedo sensor and outer bearing cage.
6. Remove old bearing and install new.
7. Re assemble in reverse order.

I do this every fall and have never had to deal with a bearing seized to the shaft or a trail side failure.

Once you loosen the bearing cage and loosen set screws how to you remove the old bearing? I can't imagine it simply slides out.

 

[Stubbs]

I've seen sleds that it slides right off with a wiggle/jiggle of the drive shaft, and sleds that require some persuasion from the back(tunnel) side with a pry bar.
The key is to keep the bearing from seizing to the shaft. If the bearing slides easily on the shaft they come off with little trouble.

 

[Hartatac]

I've seen sleds that it slides right off with a wiggle/jiggle of the drive shaft, and sleds that require some persuasion from the back(tunnel) side with a pry bar.
The key is to keep the bearing from seizing to the shaft. If the bearing slides easily on the shaft they come off with little trouble.

If it is seized on the shaft do you then have to remove the chain case? I bought an '06 Apex with 7000kms and I'm not sure if it has ever been done. I opened up the bearing and there was a little rust inside. I packed it with grease again but I would rather replace it.

 

[Winderallday!]

If the bearing race is indeed seized (spun) on the shaft, then yes, you would need remove drive shaft and use a puller or similar to remove bearing. Typically, it's just corrosion that's holding it tight to the shaft, a little PB blaster soak on it and if you remove the set screws altogether, hit it with PB through the holes to help get it in there to penetrate.
The drive shaft is sized so the bearing is a slip fit, not an interference fit, so usually it's corrosion that's holding it on. Deal with that and get a pry bar or large blade screwdriver of sorts in behind the bearing and it usually pops right out. I generally polish any corrosion off the shaft with fine emery paper and if the set screws have dimpled the shaft, just smooth them off with a fine file. I put anti-seize on when re-assembling as well.
Another thing to consider is if you have the suspension out for whatever reason, I always loosen off these set screws to allow the tunnel gap to expand slightly. This is handy when re-installing the skid so you aren't fighting with the front swing arm to get it back up into place. I've even jammed a slightly longer piece of wood between the tunnel legs to expand the tunnel gap, makes the installation way easier and less prone to breaking the thin shoulder off the plastic swing arm bushings.
Since the front suspension swing arm when bolted up in place sets the tunnel width, the set screws on the drive axle bearing are always the last thing I tighten up.

 

[Stubbs]

X 2

 

[4Fighter]

Going to try the one Barn of Parts sells. I usually change it out every fall, or remove and clean it, re-pack it, put it back in. One failure on the RX-1 was enough for me. It's CHEAP insurance otherwise, and I have a box of spare usable ones if I/friends need them on a trip or after dealer hours.

 

[Hartatac]

Some great explanations oh here, I also found this video. It is in french but the video is good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJ4plHxzcug

 

[maim]

cleaned and repacked mine with 6000km on it this year. have a spare at home. brothers 04 rx that had a bearing done when he did the track 2 seasons ago had almost no grease in it but was fine. i checked an allballs one and almost cried at the lack of grease in it.

 

[Hartatac]

I just removed mine because it had no grease and a little rust in it and it was fine as well, I repacked it and keeping it as a spare.