NY AttakGT
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Just trying to see potential causes of grinding when sled is put in reverse. As per manual, adjusted upper linkage to 27mm...it was a little long. Still would not engage reverse properly. Took chaincase apart and found small spring (between small gears) had broke...replaced that, reassembled and thought I'd be good to go. Still grinding. I don't think it would but would a stretched chain cause this condition? Just looking for some leads. Shift forks are properly sitting in the groove on the lower gear.
What about the lower linkage on the left side of chaincase.......should that one also be adjusted to 27mm?
What about the lower linkage on the left side of chaincase.......should that one also be adjusted to 27mm?
JROCK
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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You have to adjust that lower linkage as well. I forget the procedure though. Find that adjustment and you will be good to go.
80h4thephaze
Expert
My 2011 did the same, i adjusted the top linkage after disconnecting the ball joint, leaving limited play when the ball joint re-attached. Works mint.
My '11 doesn't grind but sometimes won't engage unless I throttle the sled forward a little bit...
CaptCaper
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I haven't adjusted in a while but I found once it's adjusted to OEM specs. I had to go past the spec just a small amount to make sure it engaged solidly into reverse. It isn't much. I remember loosening the star wheel lock nuts then adjusting it a little at a time until it locked into reverse. If you go to much it will grind etc. You have to adjust it so it just locks in. PIA but once it's done you don't have to do it again. I've done it on 3 Apex and Attaks.
And like the poster above said there are many times you have to go ahead to get it to engage. That's normal. Probably why they came out with electronic reverse in the Viper. I think I like ours because of no electronics to fail in cold,etc.
And like the poster above said there are many times you have to go ahead to get it to engage. That's normal. Probably why they came out with electronic reverse in the Viper. I think I like ours because of no electronics to fail in cold,etc.
black knight
Expert
mine starting doing this early this year.
It actually wasn't the Linkage but the linkage bracket
that the upper adjuster and lower adjust connect to.
Its shaped like an L and has a 10mm bolt with a nylon nut on the
back (i think that was the size). its bolts onto the chain case just down in between the rad
and chain chase. its suppose to be tight and have no slop. there's a
metal tube in there that bottoms the bracket out and allows for movement
it wasn't that loose but that was all it took.
Cheers
It actually wasn't the Linkage but the linkage bracket
that the upper adjuster and lower adjust connect to.
Its shaped like an L and has a 10mm bolt with a nylon nut on the
back (i think that was the size). its bolts onto the chain case just down in between the rad
and chain chase. its suppose to be tight and have no slop. there's a
metal tube in there that bottoms the bracket out and allows for movement
it wasn't that loose but that was all it took.
Cheers
monte1214
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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Mine too. Hmmm?
Millinocket Rocket said:
CaptCaper
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monte1214 said:
They all do that. I have had that on both Attaks I've owned and now on my 2010 VectorLTX
TBay Sledhead
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01 SXR Long Track
If the reverse isn't adjusted properly the round dogs on the shift fork will wear from rubbing on the side of the shift ring. Had to turn the fork around on one sled it was worn so bad. This could be why yours needs different than the factory adjustment.
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
black knight said:
Mine was the same case. Check the mount that is bolted to the chaincase.
If drive belt is too tight it can grind trying to put into reverse....if you have checked all the linkage adjustments, then look at the belt next, and loosen slightly if too tight
stevewithOCD
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2006 Apex RTX
First make sure your ball joints are tight & not sloppy. Replace if they are. The top adjustment is 27mm INSIDE the nuts! Critical adjustment. The second adjustment, or vertical rod, is less acurate. The manual says 1) move shifter to FWD position 2) loosen locknuts 3) turn shift rod (tighten) to 0mm free play then back 1/4 turn 4) tighten lock nuts.
