Ground Blizzard
Pro
I need to sync the carbs on my Rage and I am little confused as to how they lay out on the RS engine. My best guess is the carb on the non-clutch side is fixed (no vac tube just a cap on top and no adjustment screw) and this should be the reference carb and the other 2 carbs are snyc'ed to it. Can anybody confirm this or send me in the right direction. Thanks in advance
Slush Monster
Expert
First of all just curious,why do you need to sync your carbs? This is
all set to go. Ok here is how to do it. For referance #3 carb is the
PTO side (clutch side) #2 carb is the center and #1 carb is MAG side.
the vacume lines hooked to # 3 and #2 are used as pulse lines for
the dual fuel pumps. You will need to use a "T" on these line so your
fuel pumps will keep working while you sync the carbs. The #1 carb
you will remove the rubber plug and hook on there. Ok With engine
warm set idle to 1400 rpm +- 100. Next, Sync carb #3 to carb#2 by
turning the sync screw located between #3 and#2 until the gauge reads
the same.Ok next sync carb#3 to carb #1 By turning the sync screw
located between #2and #1 until the gauge reads the same. Rev the
engine between these steps sevaral times. Ok reset your engine rpm.
Now you want to see abought 3.41 psi of vacume at idle. There should
be no more than .19 psi between carbs.If there is readjust.
Thats is. Good luck.
all set to go. Ok here is how to do it. For referance #3 carb is the
PTO side (clutch side) #2 carb is the center and #1 carb is MAG side.
the vacume lines hooked to # 3 and #2 are used as pulse lines for
the dual fuel pumps. You will need to use a "T" on these line so your
fuel pumps will keep working while you sync the carbs. The #1 carb
you will remove the rubber plug and hook on there. Ok With engine
warm set idle to 1400 rpm +- 100. Next, Sync carb #3 to carb#2 by
turning the sync screw located between #3 and#2 until the gauge reads
the same.Ok next sync carb#3 to carb #1 By turning the sync screw
located between #2and #1 until the gauge reads the same. Rev the
engine between these steps sevaral times. Ok reset your engine rpm.
Now you want to see abought 3.41 psi of vacume at idle. There should
be no more than .19 psi between carbs.If there is readjust.
Thats is. Good luck.
Ground Blizzard
Pro
Slush yo da man!!
The reason I feel I need to sync them is upon a visual inspection I noticed that they weren't opening the same. They are all slightly different with #2 being the most noticeable. I also had a very rough idle and with no snow its the only time I can spend getting to know the new sled. I would have had the dealer do it but its a 5hr rnd trip. I do realize that the butterflies will be different because of variances in the carbs but I just want to make sure. I'll post the results when finished. Thanks again
The reason I feel I need to sync them is upon a visual inspection I noticed that they weren't opening the same. They are all slightly different with #2 being the most noticeable. I also had a very rough idle and with no snow its the only time I can spend getting to know the new sled. I would have had the dealer do it but its a 5hr rnd trip. I do realize that the butterflies will be different because of variances in the carbs but I just want to make sure. I'll post the results when finished. Thanks again
Slush Monster
Expert
One other quick note! I noticed on my rage that over 1/2 throttle
position the carb return springs would actually overcome the springs
that hold the sync screw against the plate that the sync screw pushes
against and they would start to be forced out of sync NOT GOOD. I
had to remove the throttle return spring on the #3 carb so that all
3 carbs would stay togrther through the full range of throttle travel.
Maybe you have sort of the same thing going on but worse. The return spring was real easy to get unhooked I just sliped the spring off where it is
wrapped around that small knob on the carb #3 and just kind of pushed it
past the rubber and let it hang loose under the carb. If you need to get it
back on fish it out with a piece of wire with a very tight hook on the end.
There are 3 return springs total so removing just one still seemed to
give plenty of throttle pull. now all of my carbs move perfectly together
+I have a lighter throttle pull . Seemed like a pretty stiff throttle pull
with all 3 springs on.
position the carb return springs would actually overcome the springs
that hold the sync screw against the plate that the sync screw pushes
against and they would start to be forced out of sync NOT GOOD. I
had to remove the throttle return spring on the #3 carb so that all
3 carbs would stay togrther through the full range of throttle travel.
Maybe you have sort of the same thing going on but worse. The return spring was real easy to get unhooked I just sliped the spring off where it is
wrapped around that small knob on the carb #3 and just kind of pushed it
past the rubber and let it hang loose under the carb. If you need to get it
back on fish it out with a piece of wire with a very tight hook on the end.
There are 3 return springs total so removing just one still seemed to
give plenty of throttle pull. now all of my carbs move perfectly together
+I have a lighter throttle pull . Seemed like a pretty stiff throttle pull
with all 3 springs on.
Slush Monster
Expert
One other quick note! I noticed on my rage that over 1/2 throttle
position the carb return springs would actually overcome the springs
that hold the sync screw against the plate that the sync screw pushes
against and they would start to be forced out of sync NOT GOOD. I
had to remove the throttle return spring on the #3 carb so that all
3 carbs would stay togrther through the full range of throttle travel.
Maybe you have sort of the same thing going on but worse. The return spring was real easy to get unhooked I just sliped the spring off where it is
wrapped around that small knob on the carb #3 and just kind of pushed it
past the rubber and let it hang loose under the carb. If you need to get it
back on fish it out with a piece of wire with a very tight hook on the end.
There are 3 return springs total so removing just one still seemed to
give plenty of throttle pull. now all of my carbs move perfectly together
+I have a lighter throttle pull . Seemed like a pretty stiff throttle pull
with all 3 springs on.
position the carb return springs would actually overcome the springs
that hold the sync screw against the plate that the sync screw pushes
against and they would start to be forced out of sync NOT GOOD. I
had to remove the throttle return spring on the #3 carb so that all
3 carbs would stay togrther through the full range of throttle travel.
Maybe you have sort of the same thing going on but worse. The return spring was real easy to get unhooked I just sliped the spring off where it is
wrapped around that small knob on the carb #3 and just kind of pushed it
past the rubber and let it hang loose under the carb. If you need to get it
back on fish it out with a piece of wire with a very tight hook on the end.
There are 3 return springs total so removing just one still seemed to
give plenty of throttle pull. now all of my carbs move perfectly together
+I have a lighter throttle pull . Seemed like a pretty stiff throttle pull
with all 3 springs on.
RSVECTORFREAK
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2004
- Messages
- 1,151
- Age
- 54
- Location
- Chassell Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2005 RS Vector ER
Here's somethingI thought you ought to know about if you don't already. I sent my carbs and airbox to a specialist about this problem. He found major air disturbance due to the stock breather hose in the airbox and some problems with the screen. His product is called the Flow Commander and can be seen at: http://www.southernweb.net/~flo-comm/index2.html This will synch air / fuel to all carbs perfectly. This is no gimmic. I had the first one installed in the country and let me tell you, against another stock sled they are going to be wondering what you did.
milljk
Extreme
Freak, Can you post some pictures of the flow commander on your machine? Is it an install that can easily be done by yourself? What did it cost you?
RSVECTORFREAK
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2004
- Messages
- 1,151
- Age
- 54
- Location
- Chassell Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2005 RS Vector ER
No problem. I'll post a picture of the SS Clips he also added to the screen in the airbox. It would warp when the cover was snapped on. The cost was around $340 for both main and pilot kit. The install can be done by yourself quite easily. Well I tried to post the pictures but the resolution on the digital pics are too high.
RSVECTORFREAK
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2004
- Messages
- 1,151
- Age
- 54
- Location
- Chassell Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2005 RS Vector ER
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
Toys-R-Us, I had the carb sync done on my RX-1 a couple of weeks ago at a dealer in Houghton. He only charged my $10. Afterwards, I noticed the engine was even more quiet, especially in the lower revs. It was so quiet I could hear my skis carving through the snow and the bushings squeeking on the Warrior in front of me.
