RTX-LE suspension setup

jeffgilbert

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Newfoundland
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Snowmobile
2019 Sidewinder BTX LE
I have tried doing some research on fox web site but they give a wide range of air pressures for the evol rc2 and nothing by weight. I believe now I am running the main at 75 and evol at 150 the center shock I have increased the preload and 4 clicks on compression and I think I may need some more because i get some bottoming on the from of the rear skid on larger bumps the rear springs are one at hardest and the other in the middle with the rear shock increased by 2 clicks with the rear coupler blocks removed. I am 240lb, is there anyone else with the RR suspension around my weight that has it dialed in?

Thanks
Jeff
 
I had mine revalved by Carver and have DSC valves versus singles, but here is a start of what I have.

2016 season shock setup
Carver valving from 2015


Front:
80 psi main, 140 psi Evol

High speed 6 clicks out
Low speed ?? clicks out

Rebound 16 clicks out

Rear:

Torsion springs on #2

Fr high speed 8 clicks out

Rear High speed 6 clicks out
Rear low speed?

Rear rebound ?



I find that running the high speed clickers in a bit really helps cushion hard landings. I like to skip a bit. I would not say jump by most standards. I try to keep the rear axle within a foot or two of the ground, but the skis high.
 
I was hoping you would chime in TD Max I know you have the same sled as me and Tried a few different setups. I'll try some of it out and see if I can get the most out of this. The amount of adjustment that can be done on these sleds is almost overwhelming.
 
I think without having the revalve you will be most happy with a 30psi spread between Evol and Main with Evol always being higher psi and charged first .Try to control bottoming with the compression clicker. Before you do anything though you must adjust rebound to as fast as possible without kicking. Rebound affects compression so get the rebound right first then leave it alone.
 
I have the front shocks set up at 50 psi main, 180 evolution. Compression is roughly 7 clicks.and rebound about 10. Works amazing for me. As for the rear...

Not yet perfected it. I have the front shocks 2 clicks from the max, and the rest the compression is pretty much max and the rebound is about 10 clicks. I still.have the coupler blocks in. If I were to take them.out what exactly does that do?

The rear ain't perfect for me but it works ok till that big bump.... I'm about 245 lbs without gear
 
Taking out the rear coupler blocks give more weight transfer I love lifting the skis
 
I may try that I do to. Haha lifts the skis pretty good as is with the turbo. So when you take them.off your not gonna cause any damage anywhere else.on the skid? There just held.on by one bolt I believe to.eh?
 
Just a bolt on each side and no damage to my knowledge
 
So depending on the terrain and if you like to bump and jump, what I do is add a couple clicks to whichever end I am focusing on and see if I can feel a difference. If not add 2 more etc.

I never messed with the single adjust or stock valving though.
 
Single vs hi lo is a 3 click difference. Single adjuster requires less clicks if valved properly for rider
 
I have tried doing some research on fox web site but they give a wide range of air pressures for the evol rc2 and nothing by weight. I believe now I am running the main at 75 and evol at 150 the center shock I have increased the preload and 4 clicks on compression and I think I may need some more because i get some bottoming on the from of the rear skid on larger bumps the rear springs are one at hardest and the other in the middle with the rear shock increased by 2 clicks with the rear coupler blocks removed. I am 240lb, is there anyone else with the RR suspension around my weight that has it dialed in?

Thanks
Jeff

When you removed the coupler blocks you left the shift in.im.assuming ? Just took the blocks out and put the shift back in?
 
Single vs hi lo is a 3 click difference. Single adjuster requires less clicks if valved properly for rider

Regardless the click count, the idea is to move a large step in one direction or another to first feel it out and find out if you are going the right way. In some cases you might find it best to overcorrect then work back. In others you might find that it's best to return to your base setting and creep up on it.
 
When you removed the coupler blocks you left the shift in.im.assuming ? Just took the blocks out and put the shift back in?
Yes if you take out the blocks put the shaft back in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I had it all removed I have done this with previous cats I had.
 


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