Has anyone found the exact cause, and a solution to the tracking rubbing problem?
I noticed the problem on my Apex ER after a couple hundred miles, had the dealer look at it and they couldn't find anything wrong, mentioned that they looked at a few other Apex sleds that were in for their 500 mile service and they had similar rub marks.
Well, after 1200+ miles the rub marks are more noticeable, with the addition of small puncture marks in the rubbing areas!
Had a chance to check out the new '07 preview models and looked at a Apex that was on display-it had obviously been driven as it had the distinct rub marks on the inside of the track.
I questioned the Yamaha rep about the rubbing marks, but he didn't really have any info to share with me, other than the obvious-contact my dealer (which I will be!), who in turn will contact Yamaha to see what the cure is.
I've seen it posted that some '06 Vectors also have the problem. Has anyone with the mono skid RX1's had any similar problems?
Was anything changed in the mono skid for '06 from '05 that would cause this problem?
I noticed the problem on my Apex ER after a couple hundred miles, had the dealer look at it and they couldn't find anything wrong, mentioned that they looked at a few other Apex sleds that were in for their 500 mile service and they had similar rub marks.
Well, after 1200+ miles the rub marks are more noticeable, with the addition of small puncture marks in the rubbing areas!
Had a chance to check out the new '07 preview models and looked at a Apex that was on display-it had obviously been driven as it had the distinct rub marks on the inside of the track.
I questioned the Yamaha rep about the rubbing marks, but he didn't really have any info to share with me, other than the obvious-contact my dealer (which I will be!), who in turn will contact Yamaha to see what the cure is.
I've seen it posted that some '06 Vectors also have the problem. Has anyone with the mono skid RX1's had any similar problems?
Was anything changed in the mono skid for '06 from '05 that would cause this problem?
06RTXRider
Expert
I went through the dealer BS and they tell me it's from the track being too loose and that some rubbing is normal. My RTX is studded so they don't even want to hear about it. I talked to the rep at the dealer show and seemed surprised that pieces of the track were coming off. He didn't seem to feel like this was normal even with studs but offered no course of action. I've just been riding it how it is and checking my track tension, keeping it not as tight as the spec but tight enough so it doesn't hang more than 1/2" from the rails. I'm not sure if it's getting worse but doesn't matter because they will do nothing about it.
Larger diameter wheels-help stop contact?
Would it be possible to change out the track wheels (the ones that carry the track over the top of the rear shock mount, on the sides of the tunnel) to larger diameter wheels to provide more clearance between the shock and track to hopefully keep them from coming in contact?
If so, any ideas on what wheels may fit?
I have seen it posted elsewhere about possible ice build-up could be causing the rubbing, but I don't believe it as the marks are right in the center of the track, and I have yet to see any ice built up on any part in the center of the skid. The double-tube front arm does do a nice job of building up with snow & ice though!
Would it be possible to change out the track wheels (the ones that carry the track over the top of the rear shock mount, on the sides of the tunnel) to larger diameter wheels to provide more clearance between the shock and track to hopefully keep them from coming in contact?
If so, any ideas on what wheels may fit?
I have seen it posted elsewhere about possible ice build-up could be causing the rubbing, but I don't believe it as the marks are right in the center of the track, and I have yet to see any ice built up on any part in the center of the skid. The double-tube front arm does do a nice job of building up with snow & ice though!
06RTXRider
Expert
I almost tried this, I had wheels that were 7 3/4" or 8" don't remember but it looked like it would raise the track too close to the tunnel with the studs and was afraid of creating another clearance issue.
xcsp,
I JUST got my sled back last week from the dealer. (05 RX-1)
I had 2300 miles on it (from last season) before I noticed what were almost holes by now in the center of the track. When I got the sled from the dealer I bought it from, the track was way to loose. I was ratcheting bad. I took it easy until I got back to the cabin so I could tighten it a bit. Never thought to look at the CENTER of the track. Well last fall I ripped the suspension out at 2300 miles to get the shocks rebuilt and to look over everything after reading so much on this skid here. I was no longer ratcheting but I was running it as loose as I could without due to hyfax wear. Needless to say, my shock was worn bad and the track was pretty bad in the middle. I also had virtually NO bushings left in the skid. I replaced all the bushings with 06 ones (updated and covered under warranty. The dealer just gave them to me and I put them in) The rails at the time seemed ok. Only thing I noticed was it seemed as thought I could NOT get my track aligned the same from front to back. (possible bent W arm I tought to myself) At the time the rails and arm looked ok. Went on my first trip this season and put about 700 miles on. Used the 5.35 Poo wheels to solve the hyfax problem. This worked well...and I ran the track a little tighter than I was before.
Got home from that trip and looked it over again. This time I saw hairline cracks in the rails. Now it was time to go to the dealer with it.
Yamaha replaced the entire suspension including both rails, W arm, new pivots WITH the fittings now and the drivers up front since they were also damaged. I went with anti ratcheting drivers and paid the difference in cost. The track however they would NOT replace because A) it was studded and B) because I did not go back to the dealer and complain that it was ratcheting right away. They basically looked at it as if I continued to drive it like that even though I did not. So If I had like a few hundred or even under 1000 miles on it, it sounded like I would have gotten a new track even though it was studded. But since everything was brought up to them with 3000 miles on it, I was SOL on the track. But they did step up to the plate on evey thing else. I was even able to get all new bearings in the drive and jack as long as it was all apart. They said I HAD to purchase the heavier spring to get the claim covered as well. So I had to flip for the track, or use my old one...and flip for the spring. I was NOT going to put the old track back in with the miles I do.
Dealer said the wear in the track and shock is because the track was too loose. The dealer who did the work is NOT the same dealer who I bought the sled off of. The dealer who did the work said they have seen a number of them and that is IS due to running the track to loose. It seems to be a fine line on the hyfax wear VS. how loose you can run it. As it is...I am missing the entire piece of aluminum twards the back that goes across the tunnel protectors and looks to provide support and protect the exhaust. My studs completly tore it out, yet hardly grazed the exhaust at all. Looks like I am going to have to weld something in there for piece of mind and support. I did not notice it until I got the sled back from the dealer. Would have been nice if they had noticed it....
Now that I know that there are others out there with the same problem...I feel as though they should have bought the track as well. Obviouslly somthing is up.
Have you ever ratcheted or had the track to loose???
I JUST got my sled back last week from the dealer. (05 RX-1)
I had 2300 miles on it (from last season) before I noticed what were almost holes by now in the center of the track. When I got the sled from the dealer I bought it from, the track was way to loose. I was ratcheting bad. I took it easy until I got back to the cabin so I could tighten it a bit. Never thought to look at the CENTER of the track. Well last fall I ripped the suspension out at 2300 miles to get the shocks rebuilt and to look over everything after reading so much on this skid here. I was no longer ratcheting but I was running it as loose as I could without due to hyfax wear. Needless to say, my shock was worn bad and the track was pretty bad in the middle. I also had virtually NO bushings left in the skid. I replaced all the bushings with 06 ones (updated and covered under warranty. The dealer just gave them to me and I put them in) The rails at the time seemed ok. Only thing I noticed was it seemed as thought I could NOT get my track aligned the same from front to back. (possible bent W arm I tought to myself) At the time the rails and arm looked ok. Went on my first trip this season and put about 700 miles on. Used the 5.35 Poo wheels to solve the hyfax problem. This worked well...and I ran the track a little tighter than I was before.
Got home from that trip and looked it over again. This time I saw hairline cracks in the rails. Now it was time to go to the dealer with it.
Yamaha replaced the entire suspension including both rails, W arm, new pivots WITH the fittings now and the drivers up front since they were also damaged. I went with anti ratcheting drivers and paid the difference in cost. The track however they would NOT replace because A) it was studded and B) because I did not go back to the dealer and complain that it was ratcheting right away. They basically looked at it as if I continued to drive it like that even though I did not. So If I had like a few hundred or even under 1000 miles on it, it sounded like I would have gotten a new track even though it was studded. But since everything was brought up to them with 3000 miles on it, I was SOL on the track. But they did step up to the plate on evey thing else. I was even able to get all new bearings in the drive and jack as long as it was all apart. They said I HAD to purchase the heavier spring to get the claim covered as well. So I had to flip for the track, or use my old one...and flip for the spring. I was NOT going to put the old track back in with the miles I do.
Dealer said the wear in the track and shock is because the track was too loose. The dealer who did the work is NOT the same dealer who I bought the sled off of. The dealer who did the work said they have seen a number of them and that is IS due to running the track to loose. It seems to be a fine line on the hyfax wear VS. how loose you can run it. As it is...I am missing the entire piece of aluminum twards the back that goes across the tunnel protectors and looks to provide support and protect the exhaust. My studs completly tore it out, yet hardly grazed the exhaust at all. Looks like I am going to have to weld something in there for piece of mind and support. I did not notice it until I got the sled back from the dealer. Would have been nice if they had noticed it....
Now that I know that there are others out there with the same problem...I feel as though they should have bought the track as well. Obviouslly somthing is up.
Have you ever ratcheted or had the track to loose???
Track rub
I have maintained the track tension to be within the factory specs. and have never had any track ratcheting.
I have also added SLP wear pads, the 4th whel kit and marginal snow wheels(placed directly behind the rubber block at the bend in the rails)-this way I could keep the track tension to spec and minimize hyfax wear.
I have read where guys are running the tracks real loose, yet they do not rub, so I am curious why some seem to rub, some don't.
For the larger diameter carrier wheels, even if a guy could go maybe 1/4" larger diameter(?) that might solve some of the problem?
I have maintained the track tension to be within the factory specs. and have never had any track ratcheting.
I have also added SLP wear pads, the 4th whel kit and marginal snow wheels(placed directly behind the rubber block at the bend in the rails)-this way I could keep the track tension to spec and minimize hyfax wear.
I have read where guys are running the tracks real loose, yet they do not rub, so I am curious why some seem to rub, some don't.
For the larger diameter carrier wheels, even if a guy could go maybe 1/4" larger diameter(?) that might solve some of the problem?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
I can't see it from being too loose, more like too tight. Tension draws the track into the shock mount.
Interceptor007
Extreme
I have the same problem. With 1000 miles on my Apex there are some pretty good gouges in the center of the track. I think I'm going to pull the suspension this summer and see if there is any way to weld some "guides" over the top of the shock.
I am not very happy about it at all. But so far my only complaint.
I am not very happy about it at all. But so far my only complaint.
Check this
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=26811
Here's a possible "fix" for the track rubbing.
I'd like to know who has problems with the track rubbing or not, and what they have the track tension at: within Yamaha specs, or more loose?
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=26811
Here's a possible "fix" for the track rubbing.
I'd like to know who has problems with the track rubbing or not, and what they have the track tension at: within Yamaha specs, or more loose?
BA APEX
Expert
I have chunks of track down to the threads the size of a dime every 6-9 inches right up the middle. i'm studded so no chance of being covered.
I am going to make some protectors like Got RTX made in his thread: http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=26811
I am going to make some protectors like Got RTX made in his thread: http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=26811
1yamadog
Veteran
I'd like to know where to get the materal to make them. It sounds like a great idea so would like to put them on but not sure where to buy the stuff
Apex_Gt--1671 miles.My track hangs 1 1/4 "loose.
No marks on my track.???????
No marks on my track.???????
BA APEX
Expert
I just checked my second shock today(3/17/06). found out it has been rubbing track... take a look at page 6 of my thread in the suspension forum.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=21213&start=75
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=21213&start=75
This is ridiculous
I cannot believe we are having this problem-rubbing of suspension parts on the inside of the track, and Yamaha and the dealers don't have an idea to solve the problem.
I stopped by my selling dealer and was told to ride it and not worry about it-it's a normal condition! I for one do not see it as normal. When has wear on the inside of the track been normal?
But why do some sleds have the problem, some don't??
"Got APEX RTX" seems to have a simple solution and I sure would like to add the parts when I pull the skid out this spring.
I cannot believe we are having this problem-rubbing of suspension parts on the inside of the track, and Yamaha and the dealers don't have an idea to solve the problem.
I stopped by my selling dealer and was told to ride it and not worry about it-it's a normal condition! I for one do not see it as normal. When has wear on the inside of the track been normal?
But why do some sleds have the problem, some don't??
"Got APEX RTX" seems to have a simple solution and I sure would like to add the parts when I pull the skid out this spring.
Anyone find out if the Attack pads can be put on the RX skid???
