RX carb cleaning

[dfroster]

Wondering how long it may take to clean the carbs on my dad's rx warrior. I think one of the needle jets is plugged and I figure if I clean 1 I'll have to clean them all.

 

[Len Todd]

The first time you do it it will take at least an hour. You are going to have trouble getting the Carb Bowl bolts out. You will want to replace them with allenhead bolts. If one head does get mashed up, grind off the head. Then with the bowl off, you can get at the remaining bolt and it turns right out. Mine did by hand. Needle nose Vise Grips work too.

I think the allenheads you need are 4mm dia x 8mm long. I will do a search on this to verify it.

I recommend that you take the full rack off the sled and work on these bolts on the bench. I use a nut driver, with and extended bit I made up to remove the carb bolts. Not much tapping is needed. But the nut driver's bit fits the screws well and the handle gives you a good grip. Only problem is you have to make up a longer bit for the one screw cause the bowl is in the way.

I use a bristle from a wire brush to "rod out" the pilots. Use liberal amounts of carb cleaner and keep everything clean. Those pilot jets are tiny and any foreign material you get in there will gravitate to the pilot jets. Set the Pilot screws to two turns from the bottom.

 

[TrailxRider]

The first time you do it it will take at least an hour. You are going to have trouble getting the Carb Bowl bolts out. You will want to replace them with allenhead bolts. If one head does get mashed up, grind off the head. Then with the bowl off, you can get at the remaining bolt and it turns right out. Mine did by hand. Needle nose Vise Grips work too.

I think the allenheads you need are 4mm dia x 8mm long. I will do a search on this to verify it.

I recommend that you take the full rack off the sled and work on these bolts on the bench. I use a nut driver, with and extended bit I made up to remove the carb bolts. Not much tapping is needed. But the nut driver's bit fits the screws well and the handle gives you a good grip. Only problem is you have to make up a longer bit for the one screw cause the bowl is in the way.

I use a bristle from a wire brush to "rod out" the pilots. Use liberal amounts of carb cleaner and keep everything clean. Those pilot jets are tiny and any foreign material you get in there will gravitate to the pilot jets. Set the Pilot screws to two turns from the bottom.

I've just cleaned mine or in process still bc He's right about the screws. One of mine stripped really bad and they are very cheap. Not to hijack your post...

Todd I was thinking about buying a screw extractor kit. I do have a dremel with grinder on it so am I better off just cutting the head off and pulling the bowl apart? are you sure this definately works?

also I cant find the pilot screw on my carb. Heres a picture of it. I've only found the main jet and the pilot jet. One pilot jet in the other carb was completely plugged.

According to my service manual the location isn't a screw on my carb. Its just flush there with what looks like a green marker dot on it.

 

[grader]

the pilot screws len is refering to are not in the bowls, they are on the bottom of carbs on the motor side. turn screws in untill lightly seated and back out 2 turns. cutting the head off should be a last resort, slot it and use a large flat screwdriver to remove screw. im not saying len's method wont work but try other methods first, while you still have the option.

 

[Len Todd]

It works. You will have ~ 3/16" of bolt sticking out. They are not locktited. Mine came out with my fingers.

This is the simplest and quickest way.

 

[dfroster]

Thanks for the great info guys!

 

[Len Todd]

I just had to clean my carbs again. Third time this season. Had to flush out tank & lines. Had Stable in the fuel all summer.

But, ... I know what did this, ... I drained the bowls this year cause I was going to Alaska for several months and could not run the sled monthly. And, ... guess what. I got a lot of varnish/deposits. This is the first time I left the carbs "dry" for any period of time.

I am figuring, unless you totally drain the fuel system, there is gong to be two places in the fuel lines where air will be working on the fuel. This causes varnish/deposits. The deposits dissolved in carb cleaner. But, ...

Today it was so bad one main jet was totally plugged. The sled acted like I lost the spark plug at high speed and acceleration. Then when I dropped back to idle it was fine, except I could tell a Pilot was plugging up. The idle would not drop back as fast as normal.

One main was plugged, one pilot was partially plugged. The other jets were fine. But, ... there were deposits in all 4 bowls.

On a positive note, I got this carb removal down to a science.

 

[TrailxRider]

I'm glad I know how to clean them now. I did end up getting that stripped screw off and ended up gently tapping a small socket onto the deformed screw. It made a snug fit and one tiny turn and the screw was loose and out. The pilot in that carb was fully plugged too. So out of the 3 carbs 2 pilots were fully plugged. The sled started right up and ran before this but it wasn't idling like it should and sounded kinda bad and assuming this was why. I store my sled with Seafoam and run it every so many months. I've never cleaned the carbs in the 3 years I've owned the sled. The bowls looked very clean on the other hand.

I'm going to clean them every year now that I kinda know what I'm doing. Didnt geta chance to find the fuel screws yet though.

 

[dfroster]

Opened the hood and took a look at what is going on. Gas is leaking out of the T intake valve between the clutch side carb and next carb. Took the airbox lid off and found some gas on the air box floor directly in front of that 1st carb. Could that T valve be bad or can plugged jets force gas out of T valve?

 

[TrailxRider]

are you're hoses on good and no cracks?

 

[RedRocket]

Didn't get a chance to find the fuel screws yet though.

The fuel screws are accessible from under the carb next to the bowl towards the side of the carb that mounts to the engine and not the intake box. Screw it in lightly until you reach the end then carefully unscrew it 2.5 turns for a good stock setting. This is assuming you have not made any changes to the sled.

Here is a picture of the screws on a 2003 RX-1:

Click thumbnail for larger image

 

[Len Todd]

Defroster

I am wondering if maybe you could fill out your signature with your sled model and year so we know what sled you are talking about. I assume it is an RX-1. But, the term "T Intake Valve" has me thrown a bit here.

Also, I am not clear on what you are talking about. The Throttle Valve is Item #21 on the attached figure. Is that what you are talking about?

Are you saying there is fuel running into the carb throat via the fit of the Throttle Valve to the carb body? This would have to be a stuck needle valve Item # 10 on the attached figure. If YES, it is time to clean the carbs.

 

[Len Todd]

... Screw it in lightly until you reach the end then carefully unscrew it 2.5 turns for a good stock setting.

Most folks claim they set them at two turns out. I am wondering what has led you to 2.5 turns. I have been considering turning mine out a tad from 2 turns. I have a split second hesitation when I do a WOT from a start. The hesitation has always been there. It lasts about 1/4 of a second. Maybe even less.

Other than than this minute hesitation, all else is well. Hits 10,200 on WOT, drops to 9,950 -10,000 on hook, then goes right back up to 10,200 and stays there. It could be that I am just being ultra-critical on this hesitation. But, I was just wondering what was driving you to 2.5 turns on the fuel screws.

By the way, the Tech Manual just says "Approx 2" turns.

 

[rx1 fern]

i have heard of some guys putting bigger pilot jets on their sleds like a 20 pilot jet instead of a 17.5 because the 17.5 get plugged to fast.does that make a difference on your sled .

 

[RedRocket]

Most folks claim they set them at two turns out. I am wondering what has led you to 2.5 turns.

I am at about 700ft above sea level for reference and with the stock pilot screw setting of "approx 2 turns" I found the spark plugs to be a little lighter then I liked. They were more beige then a good medium tan color. I decided to richen it up a little by going to 2.5 turns out and am happy with the results. It makes cold starts easier and the plugs are the color I like. I guess I should have said use 2-2.5 turns out for a good stock setting.

I have not noticed any hesitation but can not say it would solve your problem for sure.