grashoper
Extreme
Any updates? How did you make out?
SMOKNZ
Extreme
I was able to pick up a used CDI on my way up to the UP and installed it when I got to Hancock. Didn't change anything. I pulled all the coils off my buddies RX1 that is running fine and no change.
If there is a hole in the fuel line in the tank I should be able to see this if I run the fuel pump discharge thru a clear hose, correct? I will pull apart the tank as well and check everything out. I have about 3/4 tank in it now. it does the studder immediately when the throttle is blipped. Is the logic here that the bowl is not full enough so it idles ok but the main and secondary jets starve when giving it throttle? Plugs all look OK too which is puzzling.
I ended up running my buddies Vector all weekend, so at least I got to ride!
I do have a quad gauge for carb syncing somewhere around, I bought it for an old bike I had years ago. I will have to dig it up, but you can post the parts list for the mentioned DIY guage kit, it may help other members!
Bill
If there is a hole in the fuel line in the tank I should be able to see this if I run the fuel pump discharge thru a clear hose, correct? I will pull apart the tank as well and check everything out. I have about 3/4 tank in it now. it does the studder immediately when the throttle is blipped. Is the logic here that the bowl is not full enough so it idles ok but the main and secondary jets starve when giving it throttle? Plugs all look OK too which is puzzling.
I ended up running my buddies Vector all weekend, so at least I got to ride!
I do have a quad gauge for carb syncing somewhere around, I bought it for an old bike I had years ago. I will have to dig it up, but you can post the parts list for the mentioned DIY guage kit, it may help other members!
Bill
Have you checked for a wire rubbing through on the harness in front of the sled under the tool box. It may have this problem and only shows up when the revs of the engine cause it to vibrate and dance on the spot where the rub through part is.
SMOKNZ
Extreme
I looked for this rub a couple years ago and rerouted and wrapped the harness in plastic to prevent this.
Also the engine ran perfect with only 2 bars of fuel in the tank prior to my first trip when I filled it up and ran the first tank.
Everyone that has heard it is thinking ignition because it backfires, like the ignition curve isn't advancing with the extra fuel. I guess I could also check the TPS signal at the CDI itself to rule out any damage to the harness because the TPS also checked out good. Otherwise Stator is the last piece of the puzzle ignition related.
I will also check the tank.
Also the engine ran perfect with only 2 bars of fuel in the tank prior to my first trip when I filled it up and ran the first tank.
Everyone that has heard it is thinking ignition because it backfires, like the ignition curve isn't advancing with the extra fuel. I guess I could also check the TPS signal at the CDI itself to rule out any damage to the harness because the TPS also checked out good. Otherwise Stator is the last piece of the puzzle ignition related.
I will also check the tank.
grashoper
Extreme
Any more news? I have been reading your posts.... And yes, I absolutely will make a post how I built this sync. tool... May not b til the weekend again so I can make a proper post..instead of just making up a list... My sled is currently about an hour away at my buddies place (where the .snow is) but I wish it was here, just so I could knock one of the carbs off sync, and show u, that it will in deed backfire, pop and do what yours is doing with just a small adjustment! I really think your digging too deep rite off the get go tho.... We all do it..we all think the worste, cuz were so used to running 2 stroke... lol maybe im just wishful thinking on your behalf...lol still think u should throw the gauges on it...
Oh ya, one more thing, even if not to help u, but anybody reading, that I haven't read much is when u do your sync. Make absolutely sure, ever time u make an adjustment, two things MUST follow each and every time.. Blip the throttle a few times THEN re adjust the idle to 1500rpm or what ever u want to use as a final idle RPM. Stock is I belive 1250rpm. I use 1500 to reduce clutch noise... make sure tyre track is off the ground!
Oh ya, one more thing, even if not to help u, but anybody reading, that I haven't read much is when u do your sync. Make absolutely sure, ever time u make an adjustment, two things MUST follow each and every time.. Blip the throttle a few times THEN re adjust the idle to 1500rpm or what ever u want to use as a final idle RPM. Stock is I belive 1250rpm. I use 1500 to reduce clutch noise... make sure tyre track is off the ground!
SMOKNZ
Extreme
I had my buddy tow it back with him and he took a look at it. He swore it was carbs and I swore it wasn't because they looked great, well he tore it apart and said they were filthy... May have found the issue. The secondary jets were plugged on all the carbs, it was the one thing I didn't check/change inside. I should know tomorrow.
Bill
Bill
grashoper
Extreme
Well...how did I make out?
yamascoot
Veteran
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2011
- Messages
- 33
old gas
i had never had a problem with my warrior, but the idle started hanging at a high rpm for the first time ever. I hadnt had to clean the carbs before, but i tore them apart and found the "gunk" from old gas in the bowls and the pilot jets. im sure it would have plugged everything else up over time. Had stabil in the gas from last year, but apparently it doesn't do any good for junk gas they make nowadays.
i had never had a problem with my warrior, but the idle started hanging at a high rpm for the first time ever. I hadnt had to clean the carbs before, but i tore them apart and found the "gunk" from old gas in the bowls and the pilot jets. im sure it would have plugged everything else up over time. Had stabil in the gas from last year, but apparently it doesn't do any good for junk gas they make nowadays.
The only thing I know for sure works for storage is airplane gas it still has lead in it. Nothing grows with lead in it!
rxwrob
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2005
- Messages
- 1
I'm guessing the problem is solved, and it was the carbs. Great read though on sync'g etc. My idle on the 04 RXW is unstable, and starting to think its the sync. This is after I cleaned the carbs with a sonic cleaner and reset the fuel pilot screws to 2 turns out. I'll be building the DIY sync tool, and give it a try. The comment on gas shelf life is a big one for me. My carbs (with stabil) went green and deposits everywhere last summer. With ethanol blends here in Canada Ottawa, I've been told 2 weeks shelf life even with Stabil. I've heard they are making a stabil for e-gas. Until then, I've switched to Shell V-Power the only local gas without ethanol. And will drain and replace every 2 months with Stabil. I hope the original poster found the problem and is fixed 
I am having the same issues as SMOKNZ. I have an 05 Warrior with 6200 miles. Mine would run great above 8.5K Rpm's and below 6K Rpm's. It would backfire and miss in between. I took it to a dealer that cleaned the carbs and said it ran great. When I got it back, I took it on a 200 mile trip.
Fifty miles in, it started doing the same thing for about 10 miles then cleared up and ran great. Just went to the UP, and rode about fifty miles and it started backfiring and missing so bad the silencer got cherry red and started the plastic around it on fire. I let things cool off and was able to get it back to the trailer about twenty miles away. It wouldn't backfire or miss too bad above 8.5K or below 6K. The next day, I took it for a test ride for about 2 miles and it ran great. Any suggestions as to would be causing the problem or what I should be looking for?
Fifty miles in, it started doing the same thing for about 10 miles then cleared up and ran great. Just went to the UP, and rode about fifty miles and it started backfiring and missing so bad the silencer got cherry red and started the plastic around it on fire. I let things cool off and was able to get it back to the trailer about twenty miles away. It wouldn't backfire or miss too bad above 8.5K or below 6K. The next day, I took it for a test ride for about 2 miles and it ran great. Any suggestions as to would be causing the problem or what I should be looking for?
SMOKNZ
Extreme
Hey guys,
Issue is still not solved. I finally got around to messing with it today and cleaned the carbs and put new filters in the tank. I drained all the old gas out and cleaned the tank. Hooked everything back up and it idles great, however it dies if you open the throttle. I am going to put my original CDI back in it and see if it makes a difference again. If I slowly give it throttle I can get the rpm's up to around 6K but I can't get any higher than that.
I am positive that the secondary jets are clean, however I notice under the jet is a small brass peice with an orifice in it. Does this need to be rodded out as well like the pilot jets. Makes sense to look into this since it appears the idle circuit is working properly now. Where does this circuit go to?
Bill
Issue is still not solved. I finally got around to messing with it today and cleaned the carbs and put new filters in the tank. I drained all the old gas out and cleaned the tank. Hooked everything back up and it idles great, however it dies if you open the throttle. I am going to put my original CDI back in it and see if it makes a difference again. If I slowly give it throttle I can get the rpm's up to around 6K but I can't get any higher than that.
I am positive that the secondary jets are clean, however I notice under the jet is a small brass peice with an orifice in it. Does this need to be rodded out as well like the pilot jets. Makes sense to look into this since it appears the idle circuit is working properly now. Where does this circuit go to?
Bill
SMOKNZ
Extreme
Well spent about 2 hours with carb cleaner and compressed air cleaning out the area under the power jets and the power jets themselves. Couldn't tell visually that I made any difference. Put Carbs back on and it idles fine but wont take any throttle.
Next step is going to take the carbs and air box off my buddies sled and slap it on mine and see if that works. That should at least help me eliminate the carbs as the problem. If it eliminates the problem I am going to try and swap over the TPS to my carbs and see if it solves it. If it doesn't take care of it I will replace the stator.
Looking to have the donor carbs this next week.
Bill
Next step is going to take the carbs and air box off my buddies sled and slap it on mine and see if that works. That should at least help me eliminate the carbs as the problem. If it eliminates the problem I am going to try and swap over the TPS to my carbs and see if it solves it. If it doesn't take care of it I will replace the stator.
Looking to have the donor carbs this next week.
Bill
I noticed in this thread you keep pulling the carbs
apart and finding them plugged again. Do you have
pond scum in the tank or are your fuel lines breaking
down inside from ethanol and plugging them?
apart and finding them plugged again. Do you have
pond scum in the tank or are your fuel lines breaking
down inside from ethanol and plugging them?
Indy
TY 4 Stroke God
when you are doing your tests, do you have the air cleaner on?
