Hey guys,
Been on here reading and researching for about 6 months but never had a question I couldn't find with the "search" function.
So here it is... just bought a 2003 RX1 with 2200 miles and M10 suspension. I installed a new Ripsaw track (studless), reverse chaincase, and new speedo side bearing and did the first ride (30 miles) last weekend. When I go from my SRX to the RX1, I can't get over the amount of coast drag that the RX has. It's not a little coast torque, but it actually slows you down as if you're on the brakes.
- Checked the parking brake and main brake for drag
- Checked track tension and it's on the tight side (set it up like this assuming new track stretch)
- Checked gearbox chain tension and just right
What else? I'm not a clutch guy and tend to enjoy my sleds right out of the box so haven't done any clutch mods. I know there's a backshift elimination kit for this sled - is it really that excessive or do I have a problem?
Thanks for the input...
Been on here reading and researching for about 6 months but never had a question I couldn't find with the "search" function.
So here it is... just bought a 2003 RX1 with 2200 miles and M10 suspension. I installed a new Ripsaw track (studless), reverse chaincase, and new speedo side bearing and did the first ride (30 miles) last weekend. When I go from my SRX to the RX1, I can't get over the amount of coast drag that the RX has. It's not a little coast torque, but it actually slows you down as if you're on the brakes.
- Checked the parking brake and main brake for drag
- Checked track tension and it's on the tight side (set it up like this assuming new track stretch)
- Checked gearbox chain tension and just right
What else? I'm not a clutch guy and tend to enjoy my sleds right out of the box so haven't done any clutch mods. I know there's a backshift elimination kit for this sled - is it really that excessive or do I have a problem?
Thanks for the input...
Thats called engine braking.You will get used to it.
YammyRX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
That's normal for the RX-1 and after a while you will probably get used to it and like it.
YammyRX1 said:
Hmmm... I like engine braking in my tow rig but not sure i'll like that on the trail.
Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll give her another couple trips before I order the eliminator kit
yamaha-rider
Extreme
yup engine breaking thats what it is but i was in the same boat i hated it but now i love it and dont think i could ride with out it....lol
GUKROKIT
Expert
I got used to it and eventually really liked it."automatic brake "comes in handy when riding agressively.Problem is anyone following you will complain that they never see brake lights because you won't use them half as much.
MT.man
Pro
Ah yes , engine braking , like said you will get used to it and learn how to use it . I have had about the same set-up as you have . Dont be afraid to run the track much loser than you have on any sled you have owned. I used to run like 3 or 4 inches of sag. This was recommended to me by fast.
Sasquatch
Lifetime Member
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Love engine braking. Its a life saver!
MT.man said:
3-4" of sag? You never had a problem with ratcheting?
MT.man
Pro
I tried running more and did have to tighten it up until it wouldn't ratchet
Indy
TY 4 Stroke God
3 to 4 inches is perfect on my 136 M10. I had to pull my skid recently to replace the track. I noticed the rear mounting bolts (upper rear axel) into the plate had actually started to drill circles into my tunnel heat exchangers. I lowered the plates about 3/4", works great. So the next time I drop the skid, I will just have to remove the axel bolts instead of the mounting plates to get to the axel bolts.
Oh, BTW, I love engine braking, but the riders behind me have also complained about lack of brake lights, so now I always give my brake lever a little tap or taps to warn the guys behind me.
I also recommend dropping the gears to make up for lack of transfer from the M10.
Oh, BTW, I love engine braking, but the riders behind me have also complained about lack of brake lights, so now I always give my brake lever a little tap or taps to warn the guys behind me.
I also recommend dropping the gears to make up for lack of transfer from the M10.
rednecksized
Extreme
GUKROKIT said:
Theres a reason my new flap has been folded under 3 times already!!!!...lol
GUKROKIT
Expert
Me too!rednecksized said:
sconnierider
Extreme
I have an '03 with the M10. Engine braking is the norm. Scary as hell. Stud the bitch or sell it. Studded, this sled is a blast. I started with 144 down the center and moved up to 168 because I was bending a few. I am 225 lbs so I needed to go heavier. As far as track tension, here it is. Loose to the point of ratcheting, then tighten it up a bit. I have several other mods to my ride and just love it.
sconnierider
Extreme
Oh yeah, when you get used to the braking, it actually helps you set up the sled and rotate it into turns. You learn to use it to your advantage. I would suggest the 13mm sway bar from Pioneer Performance. Send me a pm if you have any other questions. The Apex seat swap combined with a 4" riser was as important to the handling as the studs.
