Nothing too unusual. These have the cheap plastic Floating Piston in them like the Float 3's. But the thing to watch is of course the oil. Burnt. Keep them fresh. Its only $30 a shock.
Front QS3 R Bottom vs Front SE Top
Interesting at least to a shock guy!
Interesting at least to a shock guy!
Shagnos
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Explain please.
Well basically the designs are very different as I see it. Yet attempt to accomplish same thing. A nice adjustable ride. But by eliminating the Compression adjustment and using the rebound circuit to adjust both rebound and compression the SE shock is actually more complicated design and has to work harder. I am revalving this customers SE shocks. Softer compression damping to allow the rebound adjustment to be slowed down or tightened. So having to do 2 things to SE when with QS3R could just revalve the Compression and accomplish the same thing. When rebound is too fast on fronts you will feel it in your hands through the bars.Explain please.
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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Great to see shock stuff, Good to read Cannon, thanks.
Question for you.....Aiming for quicker transfer, when it comes to rear shock for this question.....I want to speed up my rebound, in other words allow the shock to move quicker thru its motion to allow for more/quicker transfer. I assume I want to speed up rebound on rear shock, so therefore I would go from 12 clicks out(stock setting on my rtx) to maybe 2o clicks out? Is that correct?
Thanks Brother.
Dan
Question for you.....Aiming for quicker transfer, when it comes to rear shock for this question.....I want to speed up my rebound, in other words allow the shock to move quicker thru its motion to allow for more/quicker transfer. I assume I want to speed up rebound on rear shock, so therefore I would go from 12 clicks out(stock setting on my rtx) to maybe 2o clicks out? Is that correct?
Thanks Brother.
Dan
Yes. Counter clockwise. 20 is a lot though!Great to see shock stuff, Good to read Cannon, thanks.
Question for you.....Aiming for quicker transfer, when it comes to rear shock for this question.....I want to speed up my rebound, in other words allow the shock to move quicker thru its motion to allow for more/quicker transfer. I assume I want to speed up rebound on rear shock, so therefore I would go from 12 clicks out(stock setting on my rtx) to maybe 2o clicks out? Is that correct?
Thanks Brother.
Dan
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
Ok great thanks brother....Yes. Counter clockwise. 20 is a lot though!
When I had skid out, it was first time I could really see/look closely at the adjuster on top, and see the +/- ect.....So I just wanted to be sure, that "increasing" clicks(from the bottom) would allow a faster movement of shock.
Plus(+) does seem to make sense, that it will make things move faster/easier/quicker when referring to 'rebound' but it could be easily mistaken. So this is good to know.
I did just go to 20 clicks out from bottom(as a test).....12 was stock and exactly what spec sheet said for stock rear shock rebound. Now that I know where it is and how to adjust it(flat screwdriver) I can play with things and test my transfer.
Also will see what it does to the ride, seems it should sorta soften things more? I run compression on 2 most always but do have the odd bottom out on biggest hits, which isnt bad. 3 is just way too stiff for most part.
Dan
Yes clockwise slows it down/stiffer and counter clockwise speeds it up and makes it softer. Doubt you will ever get it soft enough to use 3 for anything other than 3 ft'ers at 70mph+ but it works. Can sit on back of seat and steer with one hand through that on 3 easy! If you ever find those type trails you will enjoy 3!Ok great thanks brother....
When I had skid out, it was first time I could really see/look closely at the adjuster on top, and see the +/- ect.....So I just wanted to be sure, that "increasing" clicks(from the bottom) would allow a faster movement of shock.
Plus(+) does seem to make sense, that it will make things move faster/easier/quicker when referring to 'rebound' but it could be easily mistaken. So this is good to know.
I did just go to 20 clicks out from bottom(as a test).....12 was stock and exactly what spec sheet said for stock rear shock rebound. Now that I know where it is and how to adjust it(flat screwdriver) I can play with things and test my transfer.
Also will see what it does to the ride, seems it should sorta soften things more? I run compression on 2 most always but do have the odd bottom out on biggest hits, which isnt bad. 3 is just way too stiff for most part.
Dan
upnumber6
Extreme
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- 2007 apex rtx, 2011 apex se
Do you recall How many miles on those shocks to have the oil looking like thatNothing too unusual. These have the cheap plastic Floating Piston in them like the Float 3's. But the thing to watch is of course the oil. Burnt. Keep them fresh. Its only $30 a shock.
View attachment 142770 View attachment 142771
I believe he said 1800mi.Do you recall How many miles on those shocks to have the oil looking like that
WVTurboLTX
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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2017 Sidewinder LTX LE
You rear shock is compressing when you are trying to transfer, not rebounding. Rebound can have an effect on compression of the shock as well but not much. If there is a shock that you want to rebound faster, it would be the center but there is not an adjustment on that one. Unless you sit way back on the sled the center shock is taking most of the hit in the bumps. The rear controls the front to back see saw action in those situations. I would try to take your compression on the rear down to 1 and see if it transfers more. It should. It might act funny when the trails get rough though.Ok great thanks brother....
When I had skid out, it was first time I could really see/look closely at the adjuster on top, and see the +/- ect.....So I just wanted to be sure, that "increasing" clicks(from the bottom) would allow a faster movement of shock.
Plus(+) does seem to make sense, that it will make things move faster/easier/quicker when referring to 'rebound' but it could be easily mistaken. So this is good to know.
I did just go to 20 clicks out from bottom(as a test).....12 was stock and exactly what spec sheet said for stock rear shock rebound. Now that I know where it is and how to adjust it(flat screwdriver) I can play with things and test my transfer.
Also will see what it does to the ride, seems it should sorta soften things more? I run compression on 2 most always but do have the odd bottom out on biggest hits, which isnt bad. 3 is just way too stiff for most part.
Dan
Rebound clicker effects low speed compression on these shocks a lot. Try it.You rear shock is compressing when you are trying to transfer, not rebounding. Rebound can have an effect on compression of the shock as well but not much. If there is a shock that you want to rebound faster, it would be the center but there is not an adjustment on that one. Unless you sit way back on the sled the center shock is taking most of the hit in the bumps. The rear controls the front to back see saw action in those situations. I would try to take your compression on the rear down to 1 and see if it transfers more. It should. It might act funny when the trails get rough though.
number1kyster
TY 4 Stroke God
How much to revalve the SE shocks for a 200 lb rider? Is it even worth it?
I have only done 3 sets. All differently. Waiting for feedback/Snow. I did these Revalves for $50 each. Process is you tell me what it is that you dont like and I try to correct it.How much to revalve the SE shocks for a 200 lb rider? Is it even worth it?
number1kyster
TY 4 Stroke God
I have only done 3 sets. All differently. Waiting for feedback/Snow. I did these Revalves for $50 each. Process is you tell me what it is that you dont like and I try to correct it.
Did you ever receive feedback on these? I'm finding my rear SE shocks are too stiff in the small to medium bumps, and too soft in the larger bumps. I'm having a hard time finding a happy medium. With the torsions on soft, the sled bottoms a lot. Torsions on stiff, and the small to medium bumps are like a brick. Torsions on medium, the sled is still too stiff in the small to medium junk, but feels ok on most of the larger stuff.
I can't decide if I want to revalve the SE's, or bite the bullet and pick up a QS3 rear from a ZR limited or Viper LE.
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