Secondary Clutch Issue

[DigitalFusion]

Im borderline retarded from lack of sleep right now and trying to get my clutch put back together before we load up the sleds tomorrow for a trip. This secondary clutch is winning the who's-smarter-battle at the moment and I'd appreciate anyone who can point out my stupidity on what Im screwing up so I can just get this damn thing back together!

I put the spring at #1 in the clutch sheave, and #6 in the helix. I twisted it about a quarter turn to get the ramp behind the shoe. I tightened down all the bolts, installed on the machine, and the damn thing seems so bound up even the belt removal tool from muffin works wont budge it. I take if off the machine, take it apart, repeat the process and get the same damn result every time. What stupid mistake am I not seeing that I am doing?

 

[VX1R]

I assume that you're trying to wrap your spring to 70 degrees ( 6-1)? I've been there before trying to get a sled together with lack of sleep. Like the old Dean Martin song, "Ain't That A Kick in the Head" goes are you sure that you've wrapped the spring the correct direction? Clockwise? From your picture it looks FUBAR.

 

[DigitalFusion]

Im turning the helix clockwise, so that the ramp in focus in pic #3, goes behind the show in focus in pic#4

 

[wavemaster]

Is the track off the ground and do you spin it out after putting the belt back on? Make sure you spin it up and allow it to backshift to see where it will sit naturally.

I have had the same springs sitting next to each other on a table with the winding off 30deg before, so the numbers are good benchmarks to go by, but you may need to fine tune it to your setup. Reducing some tension or adding some is no big deal, in your case it sounds like it might be wound a little too tight.

 

[DigitalFusion]

I havent even got to the point where I can put the belt back on. Im turning this thing the right way, arent I?

 

[DigitalFusion]

When assembled, the ramp should be touching the shoes, right? Cause if i turn the helix counterclockwise, which im sure is the wrong way. the ramps arent seating against the shoes. If i turn the helix clockwise, the ramps are touching the shoes but it seems too tight.

delirious right about now

 

[subaru2006]

You go clockwise. And yes it will be tight. Mine is set at 6-2 with a red spring from Ulmer. It takes some force to wrap it and put the nuts on.

There are also directions on his site.


Subaru2006

 

[DigitalFusion]

but why is it so tight that the belt removal thing from muffin works wont budge it open? previously, it would open it right up.

 

[cannondale27]

Are you trying to open it up after all three nuts are on helix? Doesnt that Muffin works tool go under the bolt holding secondary on? Maybe the secondary is done right since it looks fine to me but you are putting the tool on wrong?

 

[TD Max]

Check the threads in the tool to make sure that they are not crossing or galling.

 

[DigitalFusion]

that was it. one side of the tool has messed up threads. I ended up getting it all put together at around 1:30am after figuring that part out. The belt is sitting really low in the secondary, but I havent got to take her out for a rip yet.

 

[Turtle]

Just to be clear .... We (Muffin Works) do not sell a belt changing tool, or any kind of tools for clutch work.

 

[subaru2006]

If you didn't mess with the spacers or anything. Work the belt around the secondary before you go out on it. Its simple and just work it around clockwise also. If not put it on a stand and run it and it should be back up top.

Subaru2006

 

[TD Max]

that was it. one side of the tool has messed up threads. I ended up getting it all put together at around 1:30am after figuring that part out. The belt is sitting really low in the secondary, but I havent got to take her out for a rip yet.

There's another vendor here Rich Motorsports that makes this tool. I got mine from Ulmer so I forget the name. What I would suggest is chasing the threads with a thread restorer and then use a good EP lube on the threads.

In absence of a thread restorer you can take a bolt of proper size and pitch and cut a couple slots parallel to the length of the bolt.

To the vendor that makes this tool: A little shorter pin on the tip of the screw would help by engaging more threads in the tool before putting load on it. I have found that depending on the helix and shimming of helix, we are putting load on the first couple of threads sometimes. I just ground mine back a good 3/16" to 1/4" to eliminate this. Maybe an anodize to harden the surface as well?

 

[TD Max]

It actually looks like the wrench part of the Viper is longer than the other kits in the pictures.