Secondary Spring question

[nolancolins]

The Yamaha secondary clutch has 1 - 2 - 3 inside the pockets where the spring and helix goes. The helix will have 0 - 3 - 6 - 9 and this determines how much twist the spring will have and force for shifting.

Like the percentages listed above.... 6-2 = 80%. All you are doing is taking the number from the helix, adding to the number on the secondary and basically putting a 0 at the end. Result is the tighter the twist, the more force it takes to make the secondary shift.

Now, if you have really crappy traction (drag racing or want the track to bite more) then lower your percentage to 3-3 (wouldn't go lower than that othewise you slip the belt and just heat up the clutches).

If you are doing off trail where you need to have very quick backshift or keep the rpms wound up more (kinda like holding it in first gear longer), then you want more twist like 6-2 or 80%.

Adding a steeper helix angle to the equasion will also help with traction without sacrificing to end performance.

If you can get your hands on the clutch tuning book from Olav Aaen.....the clutches are something else and clutching comes down to a science. Trust me I read it twice and still learning....

So I was recommended by a yamha tech to have it 0-1 on my 08 nytro it's turbod with 270 kit and when it give it gas it revs and then shift and it's acting like a stall converter from a car from the 80s and bam I'm going I'm trying to change that I have a light purple spring and the helix says it's at 9 so I have no idea what to do

 

[RobX-1]

Fixed secondary sheave will have holes that are numerically marked. As for the helix, at least if it's stock, it too will have holes with number identifying each one. Determine your wrap and then insert one end of spring into fixed sheave hole and other spring end into the helix and then rotate helix clockwise: