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Serious brake fade or lack of brakes??

SEVS11

Extreme
Joined
Feb 26, 2010
Messages
113
Location
Canada
Has anyone experienced grabbing a handful of brakes and the lever depresses all the way to the handlebar? My 2019 SRX started doing this last week and more frequently after high speed or bumpy trails. They do come back to life after few pumps but it's pretty scary. I never flipped the sled or anything and the brake fluid is perfect. The sled has 1313 miles and the rotor does not seem to be warped(ran it on stand and clamped a piece of metal very close to the rotor and spun the track and it did not contact the rotor).
 

Yes. My old 2012 ProCross POS did this bad. My winder did it towards the end of last season also, when the bearing started spinning on the shaft again and the setscrew and loctite I put in failed to hold the bearing. Now with the BOP wedge in the shaft and tight, it works great and is perfect again. I bet it has to do with the slop from shaft to bearing causing the DISC AND SHAFT to runout and vibrate at high speed pushing the pistons back in the caliper, causing the need to pump the brakes to get the pistons back into the disc. That is the only time it seems to happen is when you need the brakes the worst from a high speed run like that. I used to need to pump the brakes 2-3 times to get them the pistons back into position and work on the old 2012 POS.

You have the BOP wedge in the shaft yet? If not I suggest getting it in there fast. I bet your shaft is already really worn. Mine was shot at 2300 miles and needed replaced.
 
Wow thanks Knapp. I will bring it in to the dealer and suggest they change the shaft/bearing and then I can place that BOP parts in. No sense in putting it in now as it's probably already damaged.
 
Yes. My old 2012 ProCross POS did this bad. My winder did it towards the end of last season also, when the bearing started spinning on the shaft again and the setscrew and loctite I put in failed to hold the bearing. Now with the BOP wedge in the shaft and tight, it works great and is perfect again. I bet it has to do with the slop from shaft to bearing causing the DISC AND SHAFT to runout and vibrate at high speed pushing the pistons back in the caliper, causing the need to pump the brakes to get the pistons back into the disc. That is the only time it seems to happen is when you need the brakes the worst from a high speed run like that. I used to need to pump the brakes 2-3 times to get them the pistons back into position and work on the old 2012 POS.

You have the BOP wedge in the shaft yet? If not I suggest getting it in there fast. I bet your shaft is already really worn. Mine was shot at 2300 miles and needed replaced.


I have the wedge installed to 35lbs and experienced that same symptoms as the OP. I have 3200miles on my '19. maybe i need to torque the wedge more?
 
Just saw a snowmobile show this morning about brakes. One suggestion to cure brake fade was to put a heavier brake fluid in to prevent the fluid from boiling and causing brake fade. I didn't know there was a heavier fluid.. My Viper recently had a total failure of the master cylinder assembly...had to replace the assembly.
 
Great Suggestion but I am not getting boiling fluid since I can get it instantly after a 1000 ft on my first 5 sec run and I haven't even touched the brakes yet.
 
Just saw a snowmobile show this morning about brakes. One suggestion to cure brake fade was to put a heavier brake fluid in to prevent the fluid from boiling and causing brake fade. I didn't know there was a heavier fluid.. My Viper recently had a total failure of the master cylinder assembly...had to replace the assembly.

Its not brake fade. Its the pads and pistons getting pushed back into the caliper from disc run out and or disc vibration. Its either loose on the shaft, bent or the shaft is vibrating the disc at high speed somehow.
 
I have the wedge installed to 35lbs and experienced that same symptoms as the OP. I have 3200miles on my '19. maybe i need to torque the wedge more?

I too witnessed this quite a bit the last couple of weekends and it scared me. I have the BOP Wedge installed as well, flush with the shaft. When I originally installed the BOP Wedge I did not have it flush with the end of the shaft. I then decided to take the bolt out and to try and tap the wedge so it would be flush with the end of the shaft. I had to heat up the wedge and shaft a bit to get it to budge so I could tap it in. I then put the bolt back on and torqued it to 35 ft lbs. Not sure by tapping the wedge in without the bolt it did something, but now I have very little rotor movement (almost none) when I try and wiggle my rotor when it is sitting on a stand.

Would not having any or very little rotor movement back and forth on a stand have any effect on the brakes fading???
 
I bet if it’s to loose it’ll expand the rotor splines next to it and cause issues with rotor alignment. On my 2020 bearing was pretty tight on the shaft and couldn’t move the rotor at all on splines with 0 miles. My 16 viper Ltx had no bearing/shaft wear at 7500km.
 
I bet if it’s to loose it’ll expand the rotor splines next to it and cause issues with rotor alignment. On my 2020 bearing was pretty tight on the shaft and couldn’t move the rotor at all on splines with 0 miles. My 16 viper Ltx had no bearing/shaft wear at 7500km.
My rotor was very tight on the shaft till I loosened the track and removed the 3 mounting bolts for the calliper, I removed the rotor before installing the wedge so I could see if the shaft had play or not and on mine the bearing was loose on the shaft..
 
My rotor was very tight on the shaft till I loosened the track and removed the 3 mounting bolts for the calliper, I removed the rotor before installing the wedge so I could see if the shaft had play or not and on mine the bearing was loose on the shaft..
Do you have the light weigh rotor or the solid one? Mine is the solid one, wonder if there is a difference in spline tolerances? Never mind I know the answer!
 
Just saw a snowmobile show this morning about brakes. One suggestion to cure brake fade was to put a heavier brake fluid in to prevent the fluid from boiling and causing brake fade. I didn't know there was a heavier fluid.. My Viper recently had a total failure of the master cylinder assembly...had to replace the assembly.
Dry boiling point of DOT 4 is around 230c. We go through 1-2 sets of pads per race weekend on our USXC sleds and run DOT 4. I'd look to Knapp's suggestions on this for the fix.
 


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