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Brake Pads & Brake performance...

Sounds like it time to pop the pistons out inspect and replace the seals. Good to make sure everything is moving freely. Belt Dust and dirt can make a caliper piston sticky.
 

are the seals a common readily available item? Cat sells the seals and piston kit for 80 bucks.

my guess is the seals are about 3-4 a piece.
 
Sounds like it time to pop the pistons out inspect and replace the seals. Good to make sure everything is moving freely. Belt Dust and dirt can make a caliper piston sticky.

Done it. All working well there and even was previously. Ordered up new stock brake pads today.
 
Why would you wait to 4500 miles to change belt or broke, didn’t the belt become thinner after 2000 and lose performance,just curious.
I changed belt every season 1000-1500 miles on them. This one just happened to be only one I ever broke.
 
Well these ones lasted about 1500 miles of my riding


I noticed a few times the brake lever had A LOT of throw to it today. A simple tap and then I got back my short throw of the lever.
Got home and saw this
PXL_20230311_202626013_copy_2040x1536.jpgPXL_20230311_202619948_copy_1536x2040.jpg
 
Seems the aftermarket pads don't perform or last no matter the brand. Same deal with the Niche semi-metallic pads I tried. They just don't last or have the performance the original Hayes pads do.
 
2017 Ltx-Le. Pads were wore more than 50% at 3000 miles. Sled has 6000 miles and they are squealing pretty good Right now. Going to change them. Always use stock pads. Change the fluid when pads are changed. Run big T.D. Closed loop Tunes in the U.P. Love the 1 finger brakes.
 
I've got an extra set of these pads that I'm going to try and put in. Problem is the piston is way far out and last time I did this the piston for stuck. I cleaned some of the crap off the pistons with green scotch Brite and put the new pads in and changed the fluid.

I don't want to do that again but need to push those pistons back in.
 
IMO - very common to see pistons stuck or hanging up; pads wearing unevenly. Operator's manual says to change brake fluid once per year. Along with that, although it's a big PIA, should thoroughly clean caliper, polish pistons, and re-assemble. Always makes brakes smoother and work flawlessly.
 
Well after pulling the caliper and then splitting and then putting it back in, I'm of the belief that it's easier to split the caliper and bled the system.

I learned some stuff that may work but have to give an update tomorrow
 
Should the pads and disc get hot when just riding around with no braking applied? My pads are loose but got really hot. Stupid question I know.
 
Should the pads and disc get hot when just riding around with no braking applied? My pads are loose but got really hot. Stupid question I know.
No question is stupid, how else would we learn, no they should not, bearing maybe cocked on shaft? Bearing sliding in&out on shaft? moistier in brake fluid?
 
No question is stupid, how else would we learn, no they should not, bearing maybe cocked on shaft? Bearing sliding in&out on shaft? moistier in brake fluid?
Could also be warped rotor, does it palsate brake lever when apply'n brakes?
 
So this was with brand new pads and fluid. I didn't feel any pulsing but I was feeling some drag in the snow. It could have been the warm temps but I'm more alert this time to the brakes. How long do pads hold heat for?

Both the pads and the rotor are floaring with my shaft saver, meaning I can move all of them and they are not locked in place.
 
Could it possibly be excess tunnel flex? We all know that shaft and tunnel move around, perhaps the tunnel is flexing more with age, the caliper is mounted to the tunnel, flexing might be pushing the pucks in a bit and polishing the face of the pads as the rotor skims across the pads.
 


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