• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Brake Pads & Brake performance...

one thing to keep in mind is that if you run a steep (fast upshifting) helix, it will cause your brakes to wear out noticeably faster if you do a lot of trail riding. Another reason to strike your clutching balance with an appropriately shallow enough helix (especially the start angle) if you trail ride lots of miles. In my experience steep helixes can cause rotors to overheat and pads to wear crazy fast because there just isn't enough backshift. Just a thought...
 

one thing to keep in mind is that if you run a steep (fast upshifting) helix, it will cause your brakes to wear out noticeably faster if you do a lot of trail riding. Another reason to strike your clutching balance with an appropriately shallow enough helix (especially the start angle) if you trail ride lots of miles. In my experience steep helixes can cause rotors to overheat and pads to wear crazy fast because there just isn't enough backshift. Just a thought...
Disagree. I ran a straight 45 for 12K miles.. The TP orange spring cranked to 6/3 and ZERO issues with backshift. I never used my brakes hardly.. I'm on a straight 38 now and its SLIGHTLY more back shift.. Very little difference. HH weights loaded all on the heels and tips.. I feel this is a factor also,.
 
Disagree. I ran a straight 45 for 12K miles.. The TP orange spring cranked to 6/3 and ZERO issues with backshift. I never used my brakes hardly.. I'm on a straight 38 now and its SLIGHTLY more back shift.. Very little difference. HH weights loaded all on the heels and tips.. I feel this is a factor also,.
I disagree :)
 
Bringing this around to the top. I must be riding faster and faster as I get older. I need better brakes. Last few weeks I've tried a lot of things to improve my brakes to no avail.

I wire brushed my stock pads again, no workie, those things are completely toast and just wont stop like when new, and my gawd are they pricy to replace. I removed the pistons, cleaned and refilled with fresh brake fluid.


I tried the new Niche semi-metallic pads I bought off e-Bay. I think they must be half gone by now as I see the fluid level getting lower. The smell off them is extreme, a cross between a grinding wheel and of course clutch or brakes from a semi. Ohh they stink when you grab a handful on them. They don't bite hard enough and they are not going to last any time at all, I can feel them grinding away with ever hard stop.


Has anyone tried the full metallic ones off e-Bay from SPI? Wondering how they would do. It seems I can cook any of these pads. Wondering what works for the guys who have tried aftermarket pads. I'm still using the stock race disc the LE came with and its in fine shape, just would like a set of good pads that are one-finger, even two-finger braking. I need something good I can drive in deep with a lot of power on a heavy studded track and know I can get things hauled down reliably. Seems like pad choices are limited.
 
I’ve found the full stock rotor to be the best for breaking and wear
 
Bringing this around to the top. I must be riding faster and faster as I get older. I need better brakes. Last few weeks I've tried a lot of things to improve my brakes to no avail.

I wire brushed my stock pads again, no workie, those things are completely toast and just wont stop like when new, and my gawd are they pricy to replace. I removed the pistons, cleaned and refilled with fresh brake fluid.


I tried the new Niche semi-metallic pads I bought off e-Bay. I think they must be half gone by now as I see the fluid level getting lower. The smell off them is extreme, a cross between a grinding wheel and of course clutch or brakes from a semi. Ohh they stink when you grab a handful on them. They don't bite hard enough and they are not going to last any time at all, I can feel them grinding away with ever hard stop.


Has anyone tried the full metallic ones off e-Bay from SPI? Wondering how they would do. It seems I can cook any of these pads. Wondering what works for the guys who have tried aftermarket pads. I'm still using the stock race disc the LE came with and its in fine shape, just would like a set of good pads that are one-finger, even two-finger braking. I need something good I can drive in deep with a lot of power on a heavy studded track and know I can get things hauled down reliably. Seems like pad choices are limited.
It really sounds like stock pads are way to go, and by time you have invested in all the cheaper ones or replacing them more often they will be cheaper a less hassle than any these others. Ebc may work well and be cheaper but again less longevity. I’ve noticed even in vehicles that factory rotors an pads are the only good solution for daily use.
 
It really sounds like stock pads are way to go, and by time you have invested in all the cheaper ones or replacing them more often they will be cheaper a less hassle than any these others. Ebc may work well and be cheaper but again less longevity. I’ve noticed even in vehicles that factory rotors an pads are the only good solution for daily use.

Pads like tire compounds trade performance for wear. Not saying cheap-cheap pads are either but high performance pads simply do not last long. You can have long wear or you can have grip ...
 
I’m in same boat. Ironically It became noticeable after I blew my first belt at 4500 miles end of last season. I scuffed rotor with brake clean and scotch brite when I swapped track this fall with 0 change. Bdx rotor and some new pads are my next stop
Why would you wait to 4500 miles to change belt or broke, didn’t the belt become thinner after 2000 and lose performance,just curious.
 
I’ve found the full stock rotor to be the best for breaking and wear


OK, stock pads it is. I'll order them today. Seems like the aftermarket pads are lesser than.
 
Hayes sells a floating rotor
 


Back
Top