• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Several questions concerning 2006 apex.

Wisconsin

Pro
Joined
Nov 30, 2007
Messages
146
Location
Monroe, Wisconsin
I have a bunch of questions. I have printed off lots of the FAQ section and these are the questions I still have after doing some searches and reading the FAQ.

1. How do you remove the seat? I want to gut my exhaust and am not sure how to get the seat off.

2. If my 3 large rear wheels wobble, how do I fix that? New bearings? Can I just get the bearings or do I need to buy new wheels? They are in good shape, but wobble a bit. My dad's apex ER only has two rear wheels and they do not wobble. All of his idler wheels are solid black and some of mine look stock (grey plastic design on them) and others are spoked black (orangish red retainer clip). Any ideas where those wheels are from (brand)? We both bought our sleds used.

3. Coolant in both sleds looks pretty bright green. We though it looked like quite a bit of anti-freeze to water ratio. We tested it and all of the little balls float in the tester, but we don't know how to test the ratio of coolant to water. I figured that if the other owners didn't complain about it that we shouldn't touch the coolant. I have a rear cooler and he does not.

4. He has a screw that is stripped out on the plastic chrome trim that is in front of the steering shaft (up by the handlebars). Any idea how to get that out? Don't want to break that plastic trim. It seems like the gold colored threaded sleeve in the trim ring spins with the screw and doesn't loosen at all I can't get to that sleeve from underneath to hold it while turning the screw without breaking the trim ring.

5. Farm and fleet is sold out of their 0W-40 motor oil. Any idea where to get more besides $9 a quart for semi-syn at the dealership?

6. Where can I buy a heated shield wiring harness to hook to the battery? My last heated shield came with one (Zeus helmet), but I used that for my last sled.

7. Limiter strap...my sled has two sets of holes showing and is tight when the sled is sitting flat on the ground. My dad's has 3 holes showing and has slack. Any suggestions for what they should be at? I weigh about 190 and he weigs about 215 without snow gear on.

8. Transfer rods. I hear that they should be set with about half of the threads showing. We do lots of trail riding with a little drag racing here and there for fun. I read that if you unscrew it out too far that they tend to break.

9. Oil change (crankcase): I did the chain case with no problem, but can you let me know exactly where to drain the crankcase oil? I have a printout from the FAQ section. I have the sled dismantled enough to get to the oil filter and assume you fill the reservoir with oil when done, but don't see where to drain the oil.

10. Spark plugs. I see where they are and will be ordering CR10EK or iridium plugs. Any opinions on either one of those two types? I know that the CR10EK will be better than stock, but are the iridiums worth it over the CR10EK's?

11. Air box mod. I would like to do this myself. I have read that other people do them, but I don't have any specific instructions where to cut. I see the holes and the foam on the bottom. I would assume that I could cut more area open on the bottom of the box that is still filtered by that foam so I don't have to worry about snow dust getting into the air box. If I wanted to do ram air or something similar, where do you purchase the prefilter material and how do you securie it to the box? I think people cut a sheet of aluminum, paint it black and rivet it to the top of the airbox lid over the prefilter material?

12. Which 6-6.5" riser to get? I asked about the 2006 mountain riser at the dealership and they want $62 for a hunk of aluminum. I figured I could get it for less somewhere else. Which ROX riser would be the equivalent? I looked on their website for their plain jane pivoting riser and they said that you need an extra part for yamaha sleds. I figured that would bring up the cost to what the stealership wants. Any other sled brand risers fit? I only paid $20 for my 6.5" firecat riser. I think they retailed for $25....

13. Gearing: 2006 Apex RTX and 2006 Apex ER. I can't remember what they came with from the factory and I know that it is supposed to be cheaper to buy both gears than it is to buy a new chain. 23/40 or 22/38 is good, but I can't remember from reading the forum what we have in them now and I can't remember which combo is less expensive b/c I remember reading that buying the chain is the most expensive part.

Thanks for your help!! I appreciate it! :4STroke:
 

To take the seat off remove allen bolts around the rear exhaust tips, and remove wire screen with to philips head scews.. there's 2 bolts 10 or 12 mm nuts that are attached to rods that hook into the seat bracket.. remove those and the seat comes right off. Don't forget to disconnect taillight connector under the seat when removing!!
 
I have searched for the answers to many of these questions, but sometimes there are a ton of posts that aren't exactly related. I.E. airbox mods. Many relate to the RX-1 and ECP filters, not modding the stock airbox. Coolant searches reveal the following: "some sleds shipped with 100% anti-freeze....make sure to dilute to 60/40. Well, I don't know how to check what ratio it is currently at. Walmarts around southern wisconsin that I checked do not carry any zero weight oil. Farm and fleet was the only place that I saw, but they are out until December 22nd. Mobile 1 0W-40 is what they normally stock. Thanks for the seat removal tip. I was looking up underneath the tunnel and saw studs sticking down through, but no nuts.
 
Check your coolant with an automotive coolant tester from Walmart. Take a sample from the reserve bottle under the handlebars. For 60/40 mix you need to see about a -37 Celcius reading. If it is reading something like -60 then you have a 100% coolant. Drain 2 liters from the sled and add 2 liters of distilled water.
 
ah, well, the tester that we have wouldn't get good suction. It did go to -40, but maybe that was because we didn't get enough fluid in it. I can try that, but with your guidelines I will figure it out!
 
You need to completly fill the tester. Once filled sometimes you need to give it a tap or two to get the needle to work. Try it a couple of times. If you get -40C you are pretty close.
 
you can get most of your stuff from allen ulmer at ulmer racing...he's an advertiser on the site..

He's a terrific person to deal with and has fantastic service..
 
I'll 2nd SJ on that Allan is first class to deal with and his customer service is second to none.
 
Many of your questions are in the system, just do a search. Please don't gut the exhust can. All it does is make it louder! Nothing for performance! The BIGGEST complaint of Landowners is LOUD Pipes! Don't close another trail PLEASE!!! It is really hard to keep the trails open as it is! Reroutes really SUCK!!
 
To answer the question about draining the oil, there is a drain on the bottom of the oil tank and there is a drain in the bottom of the crank case. If you remove the plate on the bottom of the belly pan (5 or 6 allen bolts) you will see the drain plug in the bottom of the crank case. It is a allen screw as well. Good luck and enjoy the sled.
 
I, and others on this site, are Amsoil dealers, we use the 0-40 Four Stroke oil. Its around $6-7/qt.
There is an Amsoil advertiser on this site.

Use the best!!!
 
I used amsoil in my 2-stroke. I probably won't use it unless I can get it for less than regular oil. If I have to change the oil every year and I won't be putting even near 6000-7000 miles on it, I don't see the cost/benefit ratio paying off. I have never had engine troubles in even one of my sleds, I wouldn't think that it would start now with today's yamaha technology. Look at the R1 motorcycle and see how many engine failure complaints are related to dinosaur oil??? Not many, I'll bet. There isn't an amsoil dealer really close to me that has decent prices. I am not driving an hour or paying shipping for something as simple as oil. If I can get mobile one 0W-40 for $6 a quart at farm and fleet, I'll wait until december 22nd. I'm tired of hearing about the exhaust whiners, too. I had everything modded on my firecat f7 from the airbox to the Y-pipe to the exhaust pipe to the loudest sno-stuff rumble pack silencer and that thing was quieter than my previous bone stock SXR-700! A large tractor plowing in the field is louder than a sled running across the same field. I am from the country on a farm and have driven both plenty of times. Don't tell me farmers don't work at night, either! They do where I come from! I grew up right by a corridor trail. I could hear stock and modded sleds, but I didn't complain. No different than living in the city near a busy street that has cars and trucks driving by all day and night.....anybody ever been to a larger city on this forum??? My parents knew the location of where they were buying property when they bought it. Hell, my dad gets excited when he hears sleds going by. We also can hear the jefferson speedway race track from where we live, and we're almost 8 miles or so away from it! No big deal. Noise pollution is everywhere and we just have to get used to it. This planet is getting more and more over-populated every day.
 
P.S. I will definitely back Amsoil. It was definitely less smokey than the stock arctic cat oil I was using. No gumming of powervalves, either. I do like the smell of the strawberry polaris oil, but that stuff is pretty expensive.
 


Back
Top