Shock rub kit...found the problem

[ROCKERDAN]

Guys...

Once again,this is not aimed at anyone...I just want to give a heads up to fellow TY guys about this kit...I spoke up about the kit a few weeks ago and I wanted to post what i found today...but the thread is gone....so Im posting it in another thread here.

IMO,this kit is NOT GOING TO WORK with studs....i only rode it for alittle over 20 miles and found this today when i looked closely...I guess testing these kits wasnt possible in the summer months....another member had same thing happen...

the bearings cannot take the chattering of the stud heads against them...and IMO this is what BROKE the bearing....end result of the break is that the cover falls out and you can then see the raw bearings...I wasnt too worried about this until i saw the bearing was actually broke...and this is how the cover came off.

just beware that the kit is probably fine without studs,but IMO studs broke the bearing...so I spent the afternoon removing the kit....guess Im back to taking my chances on shock rubbing.


Dan

 

[nate007]

What's up with the thread being gone? I swear I've went back to check on stuff I've posted to - and can't find it. weird....
I have a pretty good bearing store around here, let me know what the diameter is. I will try to browse through their stuff and see what else I can find.
Do you think it would be easier to find a larger upper idler wheel? Iknow you'd have to adjust the track, but if it solves the problem....
Nate

 

[ROCKERDAN]

What's up with the thread being gone? I swear I've went back to check on stuff I've posted to - and can't find it. weird....
I have a pretty good bearing store around here, let me know what the diameter is. I will try to browse through their stuff and see what else I can find.
Do you think it would be easier to find a larger upper idler wheel? Iknow you'd have to adjust the track, but if it solves the problem....
Nate

Nate....yes good call...last year we all were talking about a larger upper wheel....which would be perfect idea..but noone seemed to come up with anything...I really never had an issue with track and shock,just the typical minor wear on shock...and slight marking on track..but my studs are not in middle so I guess Ill live with it stock for now...I am running alot less tension this season too...I see about 1/4 inch space when track is warmed up....between shock and track...i think it just slaps it once inawhile...BTW,changing back to stock bolt was a royal pain in butt with suspension in...I had installed kit originally last summer when i had skid out so it was simple..

Not sure where my other thread went....??....

Its funny cause my first thought when i saw this kit was that metal studs hitting metal bearings wouldnt be too good..but figured it would be better then hitting the shock...but apparently the bearings dont like the chatter of stud heads..and I have a funny feeling it wouldnt matter how good the bearings were...this was going to happen sooner or later .

Dan

 

[Srxspec]

The thread isn't gone, it was moved to the proper section. The TY moderator crew tries to put something that doesn't apply directly to the Apex/Attak section in it's proper section.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=38219

Again contact us and we will take care of you just as I stated in the previous post. Having your studs tight enough so the backs of them are sunk into the track far enough is critical. This is the highest quality bearing we can get in that particular size. Now if the seals came off and they locked up continually beating on one spot a crack could definitely occur.

Also to change with suspension installed unhook rear transfer bolt, then pick up rear of sled slightly off the ground to remove pressure and remove bearings and bolt.

 

[nate007]

I have a buddy's 600 REV in my garage, I'll go down after the SuperBowl and see if a DOO wheel will work. If not, I'll call my buddy Eric, and ask him to measure the wheels on his F7.
I should do something about this. I had to have my shock replaced due to leakage, and upon removing it, I noticed a pretty good sized flat spot on the shock, with a line on the track!
Nate

 

[RTX]

I made a anti rub kit for my sled at the end of last season and used nylon for the wheels instead of the bearingsyou guys are using.
same exact setup as what you have shown in the picture with the bronze bearing pressed into the nylon on mine. 760 miles so far and not a single problem. i have studs (double backers) and they run down the center.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

The thread isn't gone, it was moved to the proper section. The TY moderator crew tries to put something that doesn't apply directly to the Apex/Attak section in it's proper section.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=38219

Again contact us and we will take care of you just as I stated in the previous post. Having your studs tight enough so the backs of them are sunk into the track far enough is critical. This is the highest quality bearing we can get in that particular size. Now if the seals came off and they locked up continually beating on one spot a crack could definitely occur.

Also to change with suspension installed unhook rear transfer bolt, then pick up rear of sled slightly off the ground to remove pressure and remove bearings and bolt.

thanks again....i wasnt sure what happend to it..

My stud heads are sunk in to proper torque specs...possibly the woodys GDs with their unique head design is abit more chatter then a flat headed stud?..

I removed kit and feel its not going to hold up with studs as I posted above....I really am not interested in another kit for that reason(it was a royal pain to remove and dont want to to again)I did remove transfer rod and raise rear..still wasnt easy to remove bolt....tricky.

Would there be a refund for something like this?...No problem if not...I looked at receipt and it was $25.00 plus 7.50 shipping...so its not a huge amount of money,but It would be a good show of goodwill..if not,no big deal.

thanks,
Dan

 

[nate007]

Allen,
I think this is an awesome fix, and a great idea, I'm just wondering if it may be a "fatal flaw" that really can't be helped? I have studs as well, but I still think that with the track flex in that area, and the small sized bearing, it will contact the stud heads no matter what. Maybe a couple of plastic wear bars like the ones on the front of the suspension?
I think this thread should have been left alone by the mods.... Not too many other models have this problem that I've seen, JMO...
Nate

 

[ROCKERDAN]

allen...forgot to say that the bearing was rolling no problem....i had spun them earlier to check it when i showed some buddies the kit...i looked closely at bearing and the covers cannot come out unless the bearing actually cracks....it was set into a groove and cannot pop out like other bearings ive seen...so i think it must have just cracked then lost the covers in that order.

wow,nylon wheels?...wouldnt those wear out fast?...i know the track only hits once in awhile.


NATE,you have a GT correct?...the GT defintely rubs more...my RTX only had slight amount of wear on shock while buds GT had much more wear...now,i do run a 1 inch track and possibly my track has less wear or slap then ripsaw?

dan

 

[ejcamaro]

Moved this thread to the correct section. Your other post on the same subject is here also. The Mod Results section is meant to report your findings on modifications and aftermarket parts.
Also, please contact Ulmer and try to work it out with him, advertisers are the reason this site rolls on, day in day out. Alan has said he wants to help you on this and can help you far more than readers of this site who aren't experiencing the problem.

 

[nate007]

Yes, I have the GT. I only have a few miles on it since replacing the shock, but I'd rather figure something now.
Nate

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Moved this thread to the correct section. Your other post on the same subject is here also. The Mod Results section is meant to report your findings on modifications and aftermarket parts.
Also, please contact Ulmer and try to work it out with him, advertisers are the reason this site rolls on, day in day out. Alan has said he wants to help you on this and can help you far more than readers of this site who aren't experiencing the problem.

thanks,but i am trying to help out others on the site with the same problems...several already localy having issues and I want people to be aware before there bearings make a mess of there track or heat exchangers....never was my intent to say anything negative.

dan

 

[nate007]

I'm with you, Dan. I haven't seen any bashing or outright negative comments. It seems that the site is obviously being protective, which is good. I do feel that the feedback of customers and fellow TY members can only serve to help make the products we buy better. I am a good example of this. If we can all help come up with a solution, I'll be the first guy in line to buy.
Allen, you have a free research and development team behind you, here. Don't be defensive, just work with the guys who are putting the effort into their sleds to make them better!!! (much like you)I don't think anybody is throwing this idea away, because we do need it. Just realise that if somebody here can help come up with an idea that fixes it for good, you make money!!!
Nate

 

[Srxspec]

You guys are missing the fact that this kit can be sold & installed on a RX-1, Vector, and the Apex/Attak models. That is the reason for it being moved to the MOD section by the TY moderator group because it is not directly pointed at just the Apex/Attak.

Machzed, you will need to call the shop and talk to the owner (Gary) directly about refund/warranty, etc as I don't handle that part of the business. 605-387-2833.

Nate, I am not being defensive at all, simply asking for a call to the shop for further information is all. Getting input through the internet is great, but tough at the same time as you can not truely understand what someone is typing versus what someone is saying when speaking to you on the phone. It's like watching a movie with the sound off, you can assume what is being said and end up with a way different concept of the movie! We spent all weekend looking at different options for different upgrades of this kit. If somewhere I have come across as defensive I am sorry, I don't believe I have. As Machzed said, the seals on those bearings are in a groove and tough to get them off, it's the best bearing we can currently get!

 

[ROCKERDAN]

You guys are missing the fact that this kit can be sold & installed on a RX-1, Vector, and the Apex/Attak models. That is the reason for it being moved to the MOD section by the TY moderator group because it is not directly pointed at just the Apex/Attak.

Machzed, you will need to call the shop and talk to the owner (Gary) directly about refund/warranty, etc as I don't handle that part of the business. 605-387-2833.

Nate, I am not being defensive at all, simply asking for a call to the shop for further information is all. Getting input through the internet is great, but tough at the same time as you can not truely understand what someone is typing versus what someone is saying when speaking to you on the phone. It's like watching a movie with the sound off, you can assume what is being said and end up with a way different concept of the movie! We spent all weekend looking at different options for different upgrades of this kit. If somewhere I have come across as defensive I am sorry, I don't believe I have. As Machzed said, the seals on those bearings are in a groove and tough to get them off, it's the best bearing we can currently get!

thanks allen for reply....please PM me or post if you come up with any other designs for this kit...possibly Nylon?..

an