Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
I sure love having the ability to adjust the the RPM I am pulling on the mountain in a minute with the Shockwave adjustable helix.
The problem is, I have become a RPM slut! I can't get enough RPM!
Originally I was shooting for 10,200 while climbing with the ring fully seated (minumum helix angle / maximum engine RPM) and I'm there right now. I'm still Shocked, it makes a HUGE difference in the sleds climbing ablity to be able to climb at peak engine RPM vs. climbing at the 9,500 -9,600 where my RPM used to sit while climbing.
Down at lower elevation (3-4,000 feet) at the parking lot and on up to the good snow if I leave the ring seated (all the way in) I can pull right at 11,000+ RPM on the trail. I know this is well over the engines peak hp RPM but man the sled just feels insane. Who needs a stinkin turbo!
Here's the problem I wanted to ask you guys about.
To gain the Rs the new RPM slut in me wants to see and feel, I have incrementally lightened my heavy hitters. I stole some weight from the tip last time I rode but I missed the top end pull I once had so I added it back.
Yesterday I stole .5 grams from the mid range bolt and washer combination and I can live with the ever so slight decrease in mid range. I know I need to be stealing weight from the heel to remove weight next. I hate to do it because with the 3/4" AND the 1/4" Allen bolts in the heel I can pull some awesome wheelies and loading the engine in this fashion compliments the engine torque delivery. I think I'll try removing the 1/4" Allen bolt from each weight and see if I can live with the decreased bottom end pull from the primary. If I am too light the whole idea behind the Shockwave is I can turn the shockwave ring out (counter clockwise)and load the motor through increased helix angle. I guess the good things about this are the sled will feel more snappy with the lighter clutch weights and I can always add the 1/4" Allens back if I miss them too badly. Also, Justin at Outlaw Racing (where I bought the Shockwave) says if you can't maintain your RPMs while climbing you have too much heel weight. He also said that adding tip weight will help you to maintain engine RPM while climbing.
I already have the strongest primary spring yamaha makes (O/S/O) with four spring shims and a sliver secondary at 90 degrees. I may see what the total force of my Dalton primary springs I have laying aroubnd are, if they are higher I may give it a shot.
This damned Shockwave works great but it turns you into a clutch tinkerer. I still want to try to climb with my engine RPMs at 10,700 where with ECP filters the RX-1 motor makes its most power.
Sorry for the long winded story. I certainly didn't intend to talk so much!
Frosty
The problem is, I have become a RPM slut! I can't get enough RPM!
Originally I was shooting for 10,200 while climbing with the ring fully seated (minumum helix angle / maximum engine RPM) and I'm there right now. I'm still Shocked, it makes a HUGE difference in the sleds climbing ablity to be able to climb at peak engine RPM vs. climbing at the 9,500 -9,600 where my RPM used to sit while climbing.
Down at lower elevation (3-4,000 feet) at the parking lot and on up to the good snow if I leave the ring seated (all the way in) I can pull right at 11,000+ RPM on the trail. I know this is well over the engines peak hp RPM but man the sled just feels insane. Who needs a stinkin turbo!
Here's the problem I wanted to ask you guys about.
To gain the Rs the new RPM slut in me wants to see and feel, I have incrementally lightened my heavy hitters. I stole some weight from the tip last time I rode but I missed the top end pull I once had so I added it back.
Yesterday I stole .5 grams from the mid range bolt and washer combination and I can live with the ever so slight decrease in mid range. I know I need to be stealing weight from the heel to remove weight next. I hate to do it because with the 3/4" AND the 1/4" Allen bolts in the heel I can pull some awesome wheelies and loading the engine in this fashion compliments the engine torque delivery. I think I'll try removing the 1/4" Allen bolt from each weight and see if I can live with the decreased bottom end pull from the primary. If I am too light the whole idea behind the Shockwave is I can turn the shockwave ring out (counter clockwise)and load the motor through increased helix angle. I guess the good things about this are the sled will feel more snappy with the lighter clutch weights and I can always add the 1/4" Allens back if I miss them too badly. Also, Justin at Outlaw Racing (where I bought the Shockwave) says if you can't maintain your RPMs while climbing you have too much heel weight. He also said that adding tip weight will help you to maintain engine RPM while climbing.
I already have the strongest primary spring yamaha makes (O/S/O) with four spring shims and a sliver secondary at 90 degrees. I may see what the total force of my Dalton primary springs I have laying aroubnd are, if they are higher I may give it a shot.
This damned Shockwave works great but it turns you into a clutch tinkerer. I still want to try to climb with my engine RPMs at 10,700 where with ECP filters the RX-1 motor makes its most power.
Sorry for the long winded story. I certainly didn't intend to talk so much!
Frosty
culvert
Expert
Keep us posted on your progress Frosty. I'm really looing at getting a shockwave. I end up riding at home around 2000" but head to the Mtns 1-2 times a year and this would be a great way to get more form the sled then always changing weights,springs.
Also how do you like going from your stock 21/40 gearing to 21/42? Any reports on how that made a difference to your sled?
Pm me with results if you'd like
Also how do you like going from your stock 21/40 gearing to 21/42? Any reports on how that made a difference to your sled?
Pm me with results if you'd like
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Culvert, I sent you back a PM.
Gearing?
I wish I could tell you with conviction that the sled accelerated harder, climbed higher and was just generally more fun to ride but I can't. The only difference I have seen is the drop of 6 to 7 mph off the top end.
Best of luck on your trip to the mountains.
Frosty
Gearing?
I wish I could tell you with conviction that the sled accelerated harder, climbed higher and was just generally more fun to ride but I can't. The only difference I have seen is the drop of 6 to 7 mph off the top end.
Best of luck on your trip to the mountains.
Frosty
culvert
Expert
Hey Frosty...
Can you explain how pulling weight from the heel and adding to the tip is helping with holding R's while climbing.
I thought you needed less in the tips to get RPM's up?
Heading out next week and would like to know. I was going to pull the tips rivits if I couldnt get high enough RPM when climbing.
STOP MAKING ME THINK SO MUCH !!!!!!
Can you explain how pulling weight from the heel and adding to the tip is helping with holding R's while climbing.
I thought you needed less in the tips to get RPM's up?
Heading out next week and would like to know. I was going to pull the tips rivits if I couldnt get high enough RPM when climbing.
STOP MAKING ME THINK SO MUCH !!!!!!
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