Sidewinder coolant bleeding process: How to inside

[kinger]

Most on here know my issues with my sled but one thing I learned all about while I was fighting overheating issues was the coolant system bleeding. Everything below is my process to completely and FINALLY get my coolant system bled on my 153 BTX (longer but still should apply to trail sleds)

Process:
Service manual says to warm it up then let it cool, fill the to about 3/4" of a inch below the actual coolant cap (not the overfloat plastic tank that says "COLD" with a line on it). Then add coolant to the plastic tank until its at the cold line. Do this 3-4 times until bled. So that is what I started with and I felt it worked good. As delivered from the dealer it overheated in my garage from all the air. This is critical for you to watch, set up the display to show coolant temp in degrees. Then watch if it slowly increases when running and decreases when cooling (I shut off engine then cycle the key to check the temp without starting the sled) Mine would jump 4+ degrees before I started and then go in increments of 2 degrees after I was done with the service manual way. When I was having major issues it would jump buy 10 degrees+. Also on the cool down watch that it would cool in my garage 20 degrees in a matter of seconds, this is false readings because of the air in the system.

I thought I had it fixed.

Then I remembered a trick Ulmer shared with me which was go over to the mag side and raise it up 6" and pop the 14mm bolt loose on the coolant tank for the turbo cooling and wait for coolant to come out while it was running. I did this and waited...and waited...holy crap batman no coolant!...waited some more and even though it felt like it took forever it was probably 15-20 seconds before coolant started to come out air free. Wow that was a lot of air on a sled I thought was now bled.

At this point everything is working fine, I have added over 2 cups MORE coolant then it showed up to me with from the dealer already 'bled'

Then I was staring at it and I noticed how much higher then tail end is then the majority of the coolant system. I remember the Apex rears always had a bleed screw and I used to jack up the rear of the sled and crack that until fluid flowed readily then done. So I push down on it and I go no gurgling and I thought its probably ok. Then it bothered me and I gabbed my level:

I realized the front of the sled needed to go up a LONG ways. About 3' on the clutch side to be exact and about 6" on the mag side. So this is what it looked like:

Pushed down gently on the rear while the sled was off and cool with the rad cap off, and it gurgled and gushed and drained my coolant next, added some more coolant, repeat, it kept taking it, a few oz at a time. Finally it was full no more bubbles and it took over a CUP! That is a lot on this little system especially considering I thought it was bled for the 3 time.

Took it for a ride and the sled is unbelievably cool now. It rises at idle slowly it cools so fast on take off that the T stat closes, I did a few tests with it trying to heat soak like I was used to in the past and nothing. As soon as it ANY snow it would come down from 195 (after idling for almost 3 mins) to 158 within seconds, then the T stat would close and open and the sled loves 172 + or - 4 degrees. Let it sit overnight and it was below cold line again, added a few more oz and it hasn't moved since.
3 more little test runs of a hour each and nothing. Sled is working flawless.

This was the hardest sled I have ever had to bleed. Hopefully this helps out others. I would do this on a brand new one before it even left the garage! If it took 3 cups like mine I would add distilled water to dilute the coolant a little bit as Yamaha puts in almost straight coolant anyway to further help cooling.

Good luck all!

 

[mysledblows]

I have the same sled with the same cooling issue. Mine is so random - it will be fine for an hour, then overheat. Then it might overheat three times in a row, then be fine the rest of the day. I’ll give this bleed procedure a try and see what happens. Thanks!

 

[kinger]

I have the same sled with the same cooling issue. Mine is so random - it will be fine for an hour, then overheat. Then it might overheat three times in a row, then be fine the rest of the day. I’ll give this bleed procedure a try and see what happens. Thanks!

EXACT same problems I have had since day 1. You have a lot of air in it. Be patient and allocate a day when you have to let it cool in between warm ups as it takes forever.

 

[fatchance]

Another way i found effective if you have an overhead lift is to get the nose of the sled as high as possible and run the sled with the coolant cap off. You can cycle it a couple times if necessary. Remove the access plate under the motor and reach in behind the oil filter there is a coolant hose there you can squeeze to really push the coolant through the system, make sure the cap is on if you do this because you'll end up with coolant blasting everywhere. You will want the expansion tank cap off to do this.

 

[02ViperMody44]

My '20 SRX runs very hot. I will give this a go!

 

[mysledblows]

Guess I know what my next day off is going to entail. Hope it solves the problem since it’s a fun sled when it runs but is a frustrating sob when I’m sitting on the trail or in the field waiting for it to cool off.

 

[Rtbo]

I just put a rear heat exchanger in my sled and went trough the same thing. Mine was on a sled lift so I filled up the system and ran it while I pushed down on the back bumper so it was teetering on the lift. Had to do this 5 times to get air out. I think I’m good now. I used premix 50/50 antifreeze with 3/4 bottle of water wetter. Where is the 14mm bolt near the turbo for coolant? I want to check that

 

[kinger]

I just put a rear heat exchanger in my sled and went trough the same thing. Mine was on a sled lift so I filled up the system and ran it while I pushed down on the back bumper so it was teetering on the lift. Had to do this 5 times to get air out. I think I’m good now. I used premix 50/50 antifreeze with 3/4 bottle of water wetter. Where is the 14mm bolt near the turbo for coolant? I want to check that

Its right above the ROV valve on the large squarish aluminum box. You can reach it with the hood on and a spanner wrench.

 

[SledFreak]

Most on here know my issues with my sled but one thing I learned all about while I was fighting overheating issues was the coolant system bleeding. Everything below is my process to completely and FINALLY get my coolant system bled on my 153 BTX (longer but still should apply to trail sleds)

Process:
Service manual says to warm it up then let it cool, fill the to about 3/4" of a inch below the actual coolant cap (not the overfloat plastic tank that says "COLD" with a line on it). Then add coolant to the plastic tank until its at the cold line. Do this 3-4 times until bled. So that is what I started with and I felt it worked good. As delivered from the dealer it overheated in my garage from all the air. This is critical for you to watch, set up the display to show coolant temp in degrees. Then watch if it slowly increases when running and decreases when cooling (I shut off engine then cycle the key to check the temp without starting the sled) Mine would jump 4+ degrees before I started and then go in increments of 2 degrees after I was done with the service manual way. When I was having major issues it would jump buy 10 degrees+. Also on the cool down watch that it would cool in my garage 20 degrees in a matter of seconds, this is false readings because of the air in the system.

I thought I had it fixed.

Then I remembered a trick Ulmer shared with me which was go over to the mag side and raise it up 6" and pop the 14mm bolt loose on the coolant tank for the turbo cooling and wait for coolant to come out while it was running. I did this and waited...and waited...holy crap batman no coolant!...waited some more and even though it felt like it took forever it was probably 15-20 seconds before coolant started to come out air free. Wow that was a lot of air on a sled I thought was now bled.

At this point everything is working fine, I have added over 2 cups MORE coolant then it showed up to me with from the dealer already 'bled'

Then I was staring at it and I noticed how much higher then tail end is then the majority of the coolant system. I remember the Apex rears always had a bleed screw and I used to jack up the rear of the sled and crack that until fluid flowed readily then done. So I push down on it and I go no gurgling and I thought its probably ok. Then it bothered me and I gabbed my level:
View attachment 158410

I realized the front of the sled needed to go up a LONG ways. About 3' on the clutch side to be exact and about 6" on the mag side. So this is what it looked like:

View attachment 158411

Pushed down gently on the rear while the sled was off and cool with the rad cap off, and it gurgled and gushed and drained my coolant next, added some more coolant, repeat, it kept taking it, a few oz at a time. Finally it was full no more bubbles and it took over a CUP! That is a lot on this little system especially considering I thought it was bled for the 3 time.

Took it for a ride and the sled is unbelievably cool now. It rises at idle slowly it cools so fast on take off that the T stat closes, I did a few tests with it trying to heat soak like I was used to in the past and nothing. As soon as it ANY snow it would come down from 195 (after idling for almost 3 mins) to 158 within seconds, then the T stat would close and open and the sled loves 172 + or - 4 degrees. Let it sit overnight and it was below cold line again, added a few more oz and it hasn't moved since.
3 more little test runs of a hour each and nothing. Sled is working flawless.

This was the hardest sled I have ever had to bleed. Hopefully this helps out others. I would do this on a brand new one before it even left the garage! If it took 3 cups like mine I would add distilled water to dilute the coolant a little bit as Yamaha puts in almost straight coolant anyway to further help cooling.

Good luck all!

I believe in my 2020 TCAT, i read that in my manual that you should crack the 14mm bolt to bleed it out.

 

[74Nitro]

Thanks Kinger

 

[Turboflash]

IMO, this bleeding process is absolutely critical. Many many dealers do not do it right. Yes, by all means lift the front end up as high as you can - I had mine 3' above the rear. Tip sled so turbo side small coolant tank is highest point. Continue to run and bleed and run and bleed until no more air - just nothing but coolant. You can't be in a hurry. IF bled completely, there should be no temp spikes or over-heats during normal operation. They still will heat up when you're sitting at idle waiting for the rest of the pack to catch up. I don't let mine idle up to more than about 190-195. They have a starter so I just shut if off and chuckle on far ahead I am that I had to sit and wait so long that my sled was heating up. LOL
My coolant level in my overflow bottle never changes except it goes up an inch when engine is hot, then goes back down an inch as engine cools off. Haven't added any coolant for 2 years.

 

[kinger]

I just shut if off and chuckle on far ahead I am that I had to sit and wait so long that my sled was heating up. LOL

The one time I was really able to flog it, this is what happened to me! I was so far ahead I sat there almost 10 mins!

 

[SidewinderConvert]

The one time I was really able to flog it, this is what happened to me! I was so far ahead I sat there almost 10 mins!

I have quit even idling up to 190. I just give the sled about a minute to cool down the turbo/block and shut it off because I am usually waiting a while for my buddies who all ride 600 class sleds.

 

[kinger]

I have quit even idling up to 190. I just give the sled about a minute to cool down the turbo/block and shut it off because I am usually waiting a while for my buddies who all ride 600 class sleds.

That is what I will do from now on. I just didn't like start and stopping but I'm over it LOL.

 

[SidewinderConvert]

That is what I will do from now on. I just didn't like start and stopping but I'm over it LOL.

Thats what the electric start is for.