Sig. Series Studs

[JohnWI]

I've read that some people experience bending of these compared to the Gold Diggers or Megabites.

Any thoughts about using the "Big Nut" to reduce the bending?

I'm thinking about 120 or so down the middle. Primarily because of icy corners and hills (not to mention the tilt bed trailer!). I'm too new to really need them for hammering it everywhere.

While I don't think I want the sled to be pushing anymore than it does, should I maybe do 96 in the middle and 48 on the outside to help the track grip in the corners?

Anybody tried using the 1.325s on the outer sides and 1.45 for the absolute center line (maybe 24 of a 120 pattern) since there's less downward pressure in the middle? Or maybe the 32 innermost of 96?

My plan is 6-8" Triple points up front on the Vector but I was hoping to stay on the smaller side to keep steering a little lighter.

Also, why is the pattern like an hourglass instead of wedges? Like a series of V's instead of X's It seems like there are two scratch lines just outside the middle that overlap quite closely together. Maybe I'm wrong.

 

[Yeller]

I've had good luck with sig series studs. Never bent or broke any. I never stud the outside. I have 144 1.325s in the middle and they work very well. No pushing in the corners. For the first 96 studs I used the V pattern then added one extar stud per band after that.

 

[maxdlx]

Familyman has some baely used ones for sale. I'd run 144 in a 4-2-4-2 pattern. in the center only. Maxdlx

 

[Grimm]

Last winter, I ran 96 Signatures up the middle with no problems bending. This past winter, I had added another 48 (total 144 in the middle) using alternating double backers and single backers. I wanted the extra studs for peace of mind.

This past season, the conditions here in Ottawa were terrible and and I encountered several rocks and bare trails/gravel/dirt roads. I have had to replace at least half of them, due to bending/breakage over the the course of the season.

What I did notice was that about 90% of the bent/broken studs occurred when they were installed using the double backers. My feeling is that the track doesn't flex enough where the doubles are mounted and puts more stress on the studs, causing the breaks/bends.

It may have been the subpar conditions but the next time I stud a track, I will be using single backers all around.

 

[RX1Maine]

I am running 144 down the middle on my RX1 with the V pattern. I also am running 144 down the middle on mt RTX with the 4 2 pattern. They both work well

 

[MUSKIE]

I have had NO break/bend problems. Run 196 with full transfer and alot more HP. Stainless steel and plastic washers. Good luck!!

 

[Yamahammer485]

Last winter, I ran 96 Signatures up the middle with no problems bending. This past winter, I had added another 48 (total 144 in the middle) using alternating double backers and single backers. I wanted the extra studs for peace of mind.

This past season, the conditions here in Ottawa were terrible and and I encountered several rocks and bare trails/gravel/dirt roads. I have had to replace at least half of them, due to bending/breakage over the the course of the season.

What I did notice was that about 90% of the bent/broken studs occurred when they were installed using the double backers. My feeling is that the track doesn't flex enough where the doubles are mounted and puts more stress on the studs, causing the breaks/bends.

It may have been the subpar conditions but the next time I stud a track, I will be using single backers all around.

You are exactly right, someone buy this man a beer!

But seriously, this is why some studs are bending. Im running the exact same pattern as Grimm, and with the aluminum big nuts, but couldnt get the kind with the nyloc lock inside, so im sticking with the provided star washers and blue loctite.

So far, had one single stud pull through, due to excessive flex. Conditions sucked bigtime this year and I probabally pulled it hitting a root or something. I try not to ever spin my track, but it happens. But after riding hard for a year, 3000kms worth, a few barely bent studs (like maybe 3) and one pull through isnt bad. Just gotaa make sure all the studs are still tight, which is a good reason for loosing that stud

 

[Attak-Firecat]

I used the tall BIG NUTS on my Attak, and they've held up great. For shorter lug tracks short big nuts are also available. They give lots of support to the stud helping to keep them stright up and down when getting knocked around...especially with the 1.25" lugs. I run 162 down the middle and haven't lost or bent one. I have 2,200 miles on. Good luck!

 

[JohnWI]

Just want to make sure we're on the same page as far as the pattern goes. The pattern's I've seen from Woody's is like an X (Wide, middle, narrow, middle, wide).

Are you guys customizing it to a V? (Wide, middle, narrow, wide, middle, narrow)

 

[4Fighter]

I have used these studs and if I were to ever stud a 1.25" track again: I would use megabites or other hardened steel studs, NEVER STAINLESS for my style of riding. I would also use tall nuts, and Aluminum backing plates.

OR

I would go to a shorter lug, and run a shorter stud. In either case I would have to spend more time drag racing on ice than trail riding to justify them for my personal use.

IMO: I've seen the good and bad of studs, and I've seen what adaptive, skilled riding can accomplish without them. This will ALWAYS be a personal issue that the person wishing to stud will have to decide for themselves based on either their own, or others experiences.

Good luck!

 

[sleddheadd]

Just want to make sure we're on the same page as far as the pattern goes. The pattern's I've seen from Woody's is like an X (Wide, middle, narrow, middle, wide).

Are you guys customizing it to a V? (Wide, middle, narrow, wide, middle, narrow)

i noticed that also....... i am going to be replacing my track this year and restudding , thinking about going all down the middle and my wife wants some studs on her track also... so it should be a busy year for me ..... i need to keep an eye on this thread!

 

[Yamahammer485]

The pattern I have is this one.

http://www.wiem.com/catalog/view_enlarg ... ong.jpg&t=

 

[RacerDave]

Last winter, I ran 96 Signatures up the middle with no problems bending. This past winter, I had added another 48 (total 144 in the middle) using alternating double backers and single backers. I wanted the extra studs for peace of mind.

This past season, the conditions here in Ottawa were terrible and and I encountered several rocks and bare trails/gravel/dirt roads. I have had to replace at least half of them, due to bending/breakage over the the course of the season.

What I did notice was that about 90% of the bent/broken studs occurred when they were installed using the double backers. My feeling is that the track doesn't flex enough where the doubles are mounted and puts more stress on the studs, causing the breaks/bends.

It may have been the subpar conditions but the next time I stud a track, I will be using single backers all around.

You are exactly right, someone buy this man a beer!

But seriously, this is why some studs are bending. Im running the exact same pattern as Grimm, and with the aluminum big nuts, but couldnt get the kind with the nyloc lock inside, so im sticking with the provided star washers and blue loctite.

So far, had one single stud pull through, due to excessive flex. Conditions sucked bigtime this year and I probabally pulled it hitting a root or something. I try not to ever spin my track, but it happens. But after riding hard for a year, 3000kms worth, a few barely bent studs (like maybe 3) and one pull through isnt bad. Just gotaa make sure all the studs are still tight, which is a good reason for loosing that stud

Hammer, how much space is between the 2 closest double digger plates, like the pair pointing straight back?

 

[RacerDave]

I have used these studs and if I were to ever stud a 1.25" track again: I would use megabites or other hardened steel studs, NEVER STAINLESS for my style of riding. I would also use tall nuts, and Aluminum backing plates.

OR

I would go to a shorter lug, and run a shorter stud. In either case I would have to spend more time drag racing on ice than trail riding to justify them for my personal use.

IMO: I've seen the good and bad of studs, and I've seen what adaptive, skilled riding can accomplish without them. This will ALWAYS be a personal issue that the person wishing to stud will have to decide for themselves based on either their own, or others experiences.

Good luck!

Like you said, to each his own. I spent 660 miles on my studless Apex at the end of last seson. I adapted. But no matter how you spin it, no unstudded rubber track regardless of lug height, will give you the safety margin of a studded track when you encounter a icey corner.

 

[sleddheadd]

hey Rocket... you frorm joliet area? i see that on your plates.....