Ski lift in corners

[SharkAttak]

i added the 13mm sway bar on my attak have my limiter strap pulled up one hole and the transfer in the middle and i'm still getting ski lift in corners,anything else i can do to prevent it, i'm running slp powder pro ski's, they don't dart or push just ski lift, i also have my front suspension lowered so it is level

 

[Soldier'spapa]

i added the 13mm sway bar on my attak have my limiter strap pulled up one hole and the transfer in the middle and i'm still getting ski lift in corners,anything else i can do to prevent it, i'm running slp powder pro ski's, they don't dart or push just ski lift, i also have my front suspension lowered so it is level

The only differance to my setuo is that I am running less transfer than you are and different skis. My sled is night & day from what it used to be!

 

[Iceman57]

Loosen the preload on the front shocks. This will lower the center of gravity and let the shocks absorb some to the weight transfer. Instead of the machine tipping the outside shock will compress letting the body roll a bit. I loosened the preload on my sled about 1" from the stock setting.

 

[SRXSex]

I am running my spring preload level as well with 13 mm bar, I also have my limiter strap pulled up two holes from all the way (fully sucked up). I have kept my tranfer rod at centre and the setup is almost perfect. I may go up one more hole on the strap.
Shortening up the transfer rod caused too much track spin and not enough launch. Lowering the spring load any further will cause bottoming of the front end off of a good jump.

It's hard to find that happy spot between railing the trails and good traction with sucking up the bumps.

I have dualies on now, but thinking of switching to ski savers, shims and 8 inch triple points as I still have too much corner push.

After this mod I may have to losten the strap as I may have too much bite.

I was also thinking of going to the Ulmer stage II kit. Do I really need to, or should I just switch to a 23 top gear and leave the clutching stock??

Also do you lose top end with the 23 tooth??

Secondly, do you lose engine breaking with the Ulmer kit, I realy like the engine braking.???

Any other sugestions????

 

[SharkAttak]

Loosen the preload on the front shocks. This will lower the center of gravity and let the shocks absorb some to the weight transfer. Instead of the machine tipping the outside shock will compress letting the body roll a bit. I loosened the preload on my sled about 1" from the stock setting.

i did, i have it real loose, i only have about 1/2" left to loosen, i think i might lessen the transfer even more than the middle, other than the ski lift in corners, everything is mint

 

[Iceman57]

I am running my spring preload level as well, I also have my limiter strap pulled up two holes from all the way (fully sucked up). I have kept my tranfer rod at centre and the setup is almost perfect. I may go up one more hole on the strap.
Shortening up the transfer rod caused too much track spin and not enough launch. Lowering the spring load any further will cause bottoming of the front end off of a good jump.

It's hard to find that happy spot between railing the trails and good traction with sucking up the bumps.

Any other sugestions????

The front preload (on my sled) was set way to stiff from the factory. I had no sag in the front springs the way it was set when I picked up my sled from the dealer. I had the exact same ski lift as SharkAttak described. Since changing the pre-load I have never bottomed in the front and I ride very aggressively. I'm just posting what cured my ski lift. I have my transfer set half way between half and minimum.

 

[SharkAttak]

I am running my spring preload level as well, I also have my limiter strap pulled up two holes from all the way (fully sucked up). I have kept my tranfer rod at centre and the setup is almost perfect. I may go up one more hole on the strap.
Shortening up the transfer rod caused too much track spin and not enough launch. Lowering the spring load any further will cause bottoming of the front end off of a good jump.

It's hard to find that happy spot between railing the trails and good traction with sucking up the bumps.

Any other sugestions????

The front preload (on my sled) was set way to stiff from the factory. I had no sag in the front springs the way it was set when I picked up my sled from the dealer. I had the exact same ski lift as SharkAttak described. Since changing the pre-load I have never bottomed in the front and I ride very aggressively. I'm just posting what cured my ski lift. I have my transfer set half way between half and minimum.

i think that is my next step to go between 1/2 and min. everything else is perfect, no darting or pushing, just alittle ski lift, the 13mm sway helped alot, but would love to get to really rail

 

[rapeape]

How much sag should you have in the front end?

 

[welterracer]

found that once i ditched the stock OEM skis , i got rid of most of the ski lift that i had after the 13mm bar ..

 

[SharkAttak]

found that once i ditched the stock OEM skis , i got rid of most of the ski lift that i had after the 13mm bar ..

this year i went with the slp powder pro's, maybe next year i'll try something different

 

[snowbeast]

found that once i ditched the stock OEM skis , i got rid of most of the ski lift that i had after the 13mm bar ..

this year i went with the slp powder pro's, maybe next year i'll try something different

Just take out as much transfer as you can,and it will help lots.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

found that once i ditched the stock OEM skis , i got rid of most of the ski lift that i had after the 13mm bar ..

this year i went with the slp powder pro's, maybe next year i'll try something different

ditch those skis...I bet thats the issue....mine didnt handle like it does now till i added pilots with 13mm and lowered level A arms...also,strap is at tightest HOLE and rod is near mx...sit up near tanks and this thing can rail corners like no other...

oh yeah,add 6 inch shaper bars for the ultimate cornering.

Just did a 2 day overnight ride...Me and Dano rode some serious hard trails fast and twisty,rough and groomed ....man this sled is a blast...

on a side not,my remote adjuster cable is ripped out...ice buildup in these skids will only allow those cables to last a short time...i just cut it out of there,and am glad its set to where i like it....

Dan

 

[MCApex44]

One (IMO) thing that I dont think has been mentioned yet is the drivers responsibility here as well. I watch so many people ride and they 'do not' lean at all. They are complaining that their sled is tippy etc. The first thing I noticed about the Apex(compared to my ol' ZR's and F7) was that you sit up much higher. I was riding with my brother(he has a Thundercat) yesterday and when riding behind him it looked like his tunnel was rubbing on the ground...it wasnt of course but thats what it seems like compared to the Apex. When he rode my Apex...the first thing he mentioned is how much higher you sit on it then his T-cat(by the way he loved the Apex). When cornering on the Apex...I am leaning HARD into each turn and through it. I am coming out of that turn full juice as well with no ski lift. Stock ski's with doolys...stock sway bar...A-arms set slighty above parallel. JMO

 

[daveh]

Preload Adjustment

Hi Folks,

I removed some of the preload from my ski's last night but when looking at the owners manual there is a measurement range from the top shock connection to the lock collar and it does not seem to align with my setting.
I still have plenty of thread left above the lock collar. Anyone tell me how much thread is above their lock collar when indicating removing preload?
Some folks indicate two or four turns but it is irrelevant if my shocks are set higher or lower to theirs. That lame owners manual makes me doubt every change I want to make.

Thanks

Dave

 

[TonyVT]

One (IMO) thing that I dont think has been mentioned yet is the drivers responsibility here as well. I watch so many people ride and they 'do not' lean at all. They are complaining that their sled is tippy etc. The first thing I noticed about the Apex(compared to my ol' ZR's and F7) was that you sit up much higher. I was riding with my brother(he has a Thundercat) yesterday and when riding behind him it looked like his tunnel was rubbing on the ground...it wasnt of course but thats what it seems like compared to the Apex. When he rode my Apex...the first thing he mentioned is how much higher you sit on it then his T-cat(by the way he loved the Apex). When cornering on the Apex...I am leaning HARD into each turn and through it. I am coming out of that turn full juice as well with no ski lift. Stock ski's with doolys...stock sway bar...A-arms set slighty above parallel. JMO

TRUE-I agree- You have to change the way you ride. It takes some getting used to but once you get it its no problem. Im riding an 03 with stock front shocks/ but 04 straight springs which helped some. There was an old posting and I used this and it worked for me..

Jack up the front. Loosen the spring preload to none: Then just slightly contact the spring, maybe one turn. It works for me. I never touched it for 2000 miles. The idea is it lets the machine load down the front end , so you end up lower, but the basic design is heavy enough to work without bottoming without preload. The other thing is to not use carbides that are too big. The keel is pretty deep on the Yama ski and it tends to dig in hard. I too put SLP straight line and love them! But they only use 5.5 inches of carbide and also have the "keel" system.. Works super to eliminate darting...

The other thing is to roll the power on... dont slam it. .. Read the other post on lift that is active... Very important ...riding style point...