Ski lift in corners

[loudelectronics]

I am having a heck of a time keeping the inside ski down in corners. What am I doing wrong?

My background is atv's and with them you have to put your weight on the outside and give gas to rail around corners. This does not work on a sled I have found out.

I am getting really good at walking a sled on one ski anywhere but I am afraid this is a bad habit and will get me in trouble down the line. I am sure railing around corners is second nature to you guys by now, but this is a whole different world to me.

Is it possible to get the sled a bit lower in ride height? This is an XTX.

Any pointers would be nice.

 

[170plus]

softening the front helps a lot on every sled ive ever had but i have never set up an xtx,i have one but no snow yet up here

 

[lucky_7]

Yeah, I had a bit of problems with inside ski left before I lowered the pressure in the front shocks. I think it is a combination of things such as body position and throttle control also. I tend to lean far to the inside with absolutely zero pressure on my outside rail, then I try and blip the throttle to get the track to spin just a hair.

If you haven't ridden a rider forward sled like this, then it will take a little time to get used to it.

 

[Arnold08]

I rode an 05 vector for two years and the inside ski lifft was awful on that i hope the Nytro isnt near as bad im a little nervous as well as extremly excited

 

[NB-NYTRO]

pull your front limiter strap down two holes.

 

[unpride]

also try the ski spacers to widen the stance

 

[lucky_7]

pull your front limiter strap down two holes.

I am no suspension expert...but Ross at Hygear is and he suggests NOT doing this.

 

[arteeex]

You've got to be an active participant in the handling of a rider-forward design. Get your butt off the seat and load the inside board. Then get used to having one ski in the air and ride it out. Your buddies will be awestruck and the babes will...will never see this.

I don't subscribe to the idea of softening the front suspension to reduce roll. It makes more sense to me to go the other way. Stiffen the front suspension to increase stability. Why make it easier for the sled to roll up on the outside ski?

On the short track shortening the front limiter strap does make a big difference too. I don't know what it will do for you on the XTX, but this is easy and free to try out.

 

[Alatalo]

* Get rid of the sway bar.
* Get stiffer front springs.
* Set your front spring preload to get your 1G position ("sag with rider") at no higher than 1/3 of the stroke. Considering the stiffer spring, this usually means a quite small amount of preload...

This works fine for me...

If this does not work, then also consider to limit the weight transfer of the rear skid, preferrably by installing adjustable coupler blocks.

And then, do not be afraid to move your body center of gravity to the inside of the corner...

 

[walty]

decresse alot preload from the middle shock, this will limit weight tranfert and add weight to the front shock w/o preload
too much preload, puts you higher+ more body roll and too much preload

= skis bite too much and give body roll

 

[lucky_7]

I would start by reading this.

http://hygearsuspension.com/2008%20Yama ... 20Test.pdf

I know it is not the same sled, but it does explain a lot about the Nytro suspension.

 

[Alatalo]

This is not really related to the specific problem with inside ski lift, but I have done a lot of testing comparing linear springs versus dual spring (dual rate) setups. I found no advantage in running dual spring (dual rate) setups. In fact, my feeling is that the lower initial rate offered by the dual spring (dual rate) setups does nothing good to the steering response and the body roll, because both of them are much better with a stronger linear spring. I have never tried overly progressive springs like the FLOAT in my FX Nytro, I can just imagine how they would be...

The sway bar removal itself does not really affect the inside ski lift. It does offer increased body roll in the middle of the corner, but this is not the same as inside ski lift. Also, when combining the sway bar removal with stronger linear springs you will not really notice about the increased body roll. One thing is for sure about the sway bar removal - it does improve the overall stability on bumpy surfaces, no matter if we are talking about straights or corners.

More in this thread:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=

 

[SledFreak]

This is not really related to the specific problem with inside ski lift, but I have done a lot of testing comparing linear springs versus dual spring (dual rate) setups. I found no advantage in running dual spring (dual rate) setups. In fact, my feeling is that the lower initial rate offered by the dual spring (dual rate) setups does nothing good to the steering response and the body roll, because both of them are much better with a stronger linear spring. I have never tried overly progressive springs like the FLOAT in my FX Nytro, I can just imagine how they would be...

The sway bar removal itself does not really affect the inside ski lift. It does offer increased body roll in the middle of the corner, but this is not the same as inside ski lift.
More in this thread:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=

It all depends when he is on the throttle during the Apex of the corner. Leave the sway bar for now and tighten the limiter straps 1 hole and try, then 2 holes and try. First, make sure yor coupling blocks are set to min transfer for now and then start with the limiter straps.

 

[Alatalo]

It all depends when he is on the throttle during the Apex of the corner. Leave the sway bar for now and tighten the limiter straps 1 hole and try, then 2 holes and try. First, make sure yor coupling blocks are set to min transfer for now and then start with the limiter straps.

I fully agree regarding the timing of the throttle. In fact, most rider forward, stand-up style, high center of gravity cross country sleds seem to benefit from a riding style based on squaring off corners - kind of muscle around, point and shoot style - instead of trying to rail around corners in a formula car style perfect radius...A lot of people coming from more traditional sleds will for sure struggle with this...

Please notice that the sway bar removal itself will not affect the inside ski lift. The only reason I mentioned it is kind of in response to the Hygear link. The sway bar removal is part of a total package that does not comply with some of the things said in the Hygear link, still it outperforms every other FX Nytro I have seen in important areas like stability, steering response and pure steering grip. My personal opinion is that you do not need a sway bar unless you are riding perfectly flat trails only (and if that is the case, then you do not need the FX Nytro...).

 

[lucky_7]

It all depends when he is on the throttle during the Apex of the corner. Leave the sway bar for now and tighten the limiter straps 1 hole and try, then 2 holes and try. First, make sure yor coupling blocks are set to min transfer for now and then start with the limiter straps.

I fully agree regarding the timing of the throttle. In fact, most rider forward, stand-up style, high center of gravity cross country sleds seem to benefit from a riding style based on squaring off corners - kind of muscle around, point and shoot style - instead of trying to rail around corners in a formula car style perfect radius...A lot of people coming from more traditional sleds will for sure struggle with this...

I agree 100% with this! It took me a long time to actually learn to square up the corners to go faster.