skid plate

Daranello said:
Tool, what tool.....I just hammered mine back in

It will pop out again. Water drips down into the skid plate and when it freezes it expands and forces those rivnuts to pop out of their holes.
 
Daranello, I agree with KevinS, give yourself a tap with that hammer and do it right, or you'll be carrying your skid plate home in the packsack.
 
Basically a bolt and a nut. The bolt threads into the rivnut and then you lock it in with the nut. As you increase the pressure the rivnut will squish inside the hole and keep it from being able to fit thru the hole. It sometimes takes a lot of pressure and some seem to go easier. The one I had pop out looked like it hadn't been squished at all. I put it back in and squished it good. 2000 miles later and one oil change and she still is tight as ever.
 
Ah so the supose to mushroom inside, mine that pop out look new.
So are you saying torque that screew tight???
 
Expand in the hole is only half of the solution. It also has to form a flange on the backside and if the rivnut isn't long enough in the first place, it won't do that when you reinstall it. Chances are if you had trouble with one, more will follow, so replace all four with the 17.27 mm AVK aluminum rivnut...or one of the other fixes that other guys have mentioned.
 
The alum. plate that the rivnut is going into is only 1/8 inch think. The rivnut should work up past 1/4 inch material or a little more. Yes Daranello they should mushroom inside. If yours looks like new then it didn't mushroom and yes you can still install it. But it's not just as easy as tightening up the screw. You need a bolt and nut to do the job. The bolt pulls the rivnut and the nut holds it so it mushrooms. Just putting the skid plate on and tightening the screw will not do it. Basically with the special tool you can mushroom the rivnut with out having it even installed.

The rubber wellnuts which is what they are called will work, I have them on my R1 but when you over tighten them even a little too much the brass nut turns in the rubber and the rubber rips from the brass nut then it just spins when you try to back them out.
 
SPECIAL TOOL

WHEN YOU BOUGHT YOUR SKID PLATE IT COME WITH EVERY THING YOU NEED TO PUT IT ON. THERE IS A COLLET AND LONG BOLT THAT YOU SET EACH FASTENER WITH YOU REALLY HAVE TO CRANKEM DOWN TO SET THE SHIELD PROPERLY THEY DO NOT TELL YOU THAT IN THE DIRECTIONS I
PUT MINE ON MY ATTAK DID NOT HAVE ANY TROUBLE BUT I REALLY CRANKED THEM DOWN. GARY


:die :jump:
 
SORRY DID NOT READ YOUR FIRST POST.SIMPLE TAKE IT BACK TO STEALER MAKE HIM FIX IT . GARY



:die :jump:
 
A lot of people get their skid plates online instead of through a stealer and there is no special tool or installation hardware.

Self tapping screws and two bolts in the front worked great for me and have passed the test.

My father ran into a 3' rock @ 50mph with just scratches to the skid plate. The thing didn't even move.

Besides, it just seems simpler when the time comes to change that oil again.
 
drewfus04 said:
A lot of people get their skid plates online instead of through a stealer and there is no special tool or installation hardware.

Self tapping screws and two bolts in the front worked great for me and have passed the test.

My father ran into a 3' rock @ 50mph with just scratches to the skid plate. The thing didn't even move.

Besides, it just seems simpler when the time comes to change that oil again.
Well said! This IS exactly what I did ;)!
 
drewfus04 said:
A lot of people get their skid plates online instead of through a stealer and there is no special tool or installation hardware.

Self tapping screws and two bolts in the front worked great for me and have passed the test.

My father ran into a 3' rock @ 50mph with just scratches to the skid plate. The thing didn't even move.

Besides, it just seems simpler when the time comes to change that oil again.

What size self tapping? #10 ? #12?
 
When I installed mine I put JB weld on the Rivnuts. That should help them stay in.
 


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