Sled keeps hitting limiter

[NOS-PRO]

Stock weight should have 8GL stamped into it.

 

[Bww]

rather than taking it to the dealer you could invest that money into a clutch puller ($40) and pull the clutch off and learn the setup first hand. The Yamaha clutches are very straight forward and easy to understand. I can take some simple pictures later tonight and post them showing how to remove the weights and once they're out its as simple as a hammer and punch to remove the tip rivet and then can install heavier ones that you can get right through Yamaha. I don't know the part # off hand for the rivet but I'm sure someone can post that for you. If it's hitting the rev limiter that much it's killing a lot of acceleration and top speed.

that would be sweet if you could post some pics thanks. Do u know of someone that had this problem?

 

[Bww]

Stock weight should have 8GL stamped into it.

Thanks all look tonight The guy I bought the sled off of said the sled was stock except for the Hindle exhaust. What weight should I be using to stop it from hitting limiter ?

 

[Allan]

What sled is it?
In Canada All the mountain sleds come with over 6000ft clutching in them it required to change them to sea leave kits.
So if you have a mountain sled this could be the problem.

 

[Bww]

What sled is it?
In Canada All the mountain sleds come with over 6000ft clutching in them it required to change them to sea leave kits.
So if you have a mountain sled this could be the problem.

It is the 137 LTX blue and orange. spring order only.

 

[Bww]

When you put the Hindle exhaust on, it free'd up some power from the restrictive stock can, putting you into the rev limiter.

The stock weights need to be changed and to do this, the rivets need to be pounded out and new heavier rivets put back in. If you stay with the stock weights a dealer can fix this for you (have to get the rivets from Yamaha anyway). Otherwise invest in a good clutch kit. Something that is adjustable. Because the more miles you put on your Viper, the more power it's going to unleash. With a clutch kit, you will be able to do this on your own.

If I put the stock exhaust back on will this problem go away

 

[walter]

Part number for the heavier rivet? I would recommend the 13.9mm rivet. Is this right guys? 90261-06034-00 13.9 rivet part number.

 

[yamamarc]

http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/clutching-on-the-cheap.129971/
here's a idea what's involed

 

[Studroes144]

Here's a pic of a clutch puller. This one cost me right around $40, stay away from the cheap $20 ones, they'll bend like a pretzel. 7/8" socket removes the main bolt on the primary, same size socket for the puller. Just thread the puller in by hand so you know it's threaded in good and once it's snug get on it with an impact wrench or breaker bar, the clutch is on there tight so it may take a quite a bit of force, just do your best not to rotate the clutch clockwise and spin the engine backwards, that's bad for them.

 

[Studroes144]

Once the clutch is off there are 6 10mm bolts holding the clutch cover on, remove them and remove the spring. In the pics you can see an X on both the inside of the cover and the clutch itself, when it goes back together those need to be lined up for proper balance.

 

[PAvector]

If you lightly touching the rev limit you might get away with a BOP spring or changing the secondary to 3-3 until you get the weights corrected.

 

[cannondale27]

Once the clutch is off there are 6 10mm bolts holding the clutch cover on, remove them and remove the spring. In the pics you can see an X on both the inside of the cover and the clutch itself, when it goes back together those need to be lined up for proper balance.

Thats great pics. But why remove the clutch?

 

[Studroes144]

Once the cover and spring are out you can collapse the clutch so the sheaves are right tight together. From there you'll need a 2.5mm Allen wrench to loosen up the small set screws, these can be in there pretty tight, some heat from a torch is always a safe bet. Once those are loose you'll need to remove the bolt with the 8mm nut and bolt head. After the bolt is out there is a pin that needs to be remove, they're generally pretty snug in there. I like to use one of the 10mm bolts from the clutch cover, they're big enough so it won't go through the pin but small enough they'll fit through the fixed hole in the clutch. Just tap on that pin til it loosenes up and slides out. From there the weight is ready to come out, you can see in the pic that there are nylon washers on each side of the weight, be careful not to lose them. Once the weight is out you're ready to pound out the tip rivet and install a heavier one. While the clutch is off and the weights are out its a great time to clean them up some. Grab an air hose and blow out any dust that might be in there and then I like to use hot soapy water and a scotch brite pad and just do some scrubbing on the moving parts. Once you have the clutch sitting on a work bench it'll all make more sense why and how everything works and give you a better understanding of the setup. If you have any questions at all during the process don't hesitate to ask, I have a feeling doing this yourself is going to save you $100-$200 easily not counting having to make a trip to your dealers. Keep us posted on how you make out.

 

[HURRICANE]

We have a complete clutch kit that is designed to work on the viper with hindle exhaust. The clutch kit adds large mid range pull with significant top end

 

[Bww]

We have a complete clutch kit that is designed to work on the viper with hindle exhaust. The clutch kit adds large mid range pull with significant top end

How much are your clutch kits