Turbo50Mike
Pro
I had my RX and Warrior in Old Forge last week. Trails were in very good condition, and I would take turns riding my RX and Warrior through the same section of trails. It seemed hard for me to get a controlled slide through the turns on the Warrior.
On the RX I could 'back' the sled into the turn by just applying a little brake as I start to turn in, and then get on the throttle and sustain a nice, controlled slide through the entire turn.
On the Warrior I could only just start to back it into the turn by applying the brake, but couldn't get that nice controlled powerslide while on the gas. It seems as thought if I gave it a handful of throttle, it would stick to the ground, and take enough pressure off of the skis that it almost wanted to run straight off the trail.
Both sleds are studded, the Warrior has the Ripsaw, the RX has the 'finger' track. Is it the Ripsaw that prevents me from sliding the sled, is it the extra length that adds traction, or is it the suspension setup?
Any help, info or advice would be appreciated...
Thanks,
MJB
On the RX I could 'back' the sled into the turn by just applying a little brake as I start to turn in, and then get on the throttle and sustain a nice, controlled slide through the entire turn.
On the Warrior I could only just start to back it into the turn by applying the brake, but couldn't get that nice controlled powerslide while on the gas. It seems as thought if I gave it a handful of throttle, it would stick to the ground, and take enough pressure off of the skis that it almost wanted to run straight off the trail.
Both sleds are studded, the Warrior has the Ripsaw, the RX has the 'finger' track. Is it the Ripsaw that prevents me from sliding the sled, is it the extra length that adds traction, or is it the suspension setup?
Any help, info or advice would be appreciated...
Thanks,
MJB
sledheadgeorge
TY 4 Stroke God
Traction is the root of your Question. You might need to go with bigger carbides in the front, if you like to slide like that or reduce the amount of studs in your track.
Red2003
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I've only got 120 studs in my 03 shorty and it wont slide AT ALL. Gotta point and shoot it. I've been contemplating taking ALL the studs out. Makes it tough in the woods when you can't turn under power.
LooseCannon
Expert
Could be a combination of a couple different things. Could have the straps to loose on the Warrior in conjunction with having a taller lug 1.25" and longer track 136". Don't know if your tracks have identical lug heights but I would assume your finger track has a 1" and is only 121". Could be your carbides are to small and you have too many studs. Reduce the studs and increase the carbides.
Just some thoughts.
Just some thoughts.
Turbo50Mike
Pro
Both the RX and Warrior have 8" carbides. The RX has the 1" track with 144 studs, the Warrior has the 1.25" track with 108 studs in the center.
Maybe the Ripsaw is "too" good.
Maybe the Ripsaw is "too" good.
LooseCannon
Expert
Turbo50Mike said:Maybe the Ripsaw is "too" good.
I would not go that far. I would say its that you have .25" taller lug with 15 more inches of track. 36 studs won't make that much of a difference
yamahajunkie
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
tighten straps a couple of turns= more slide=more ski pressure
Convert
Lifetime Member
The ripsaw gets much better traction in the snow and with the extra length i think those are the reasons you seeing a difference. There is a huge difference in hook up between my 03 and my 05 the only place the finger track does better is on ice.
King44
Extreme
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2005
- Messages
- 106
I have a 04 Warrior and the days of sliding your #*$&@ through the corners is over. The grip from the Rip Saw track is too good.I was like you and rode around a corner sliding my #*$&@ around. I wasn't sure if I liked the traction of my Warrior, but what I did was change my riding style. I love it now and have no problems"railing"around corners.When I'm approaching a corner I slide my crotch up to the gas tank,this puts more weight on the skiis and less on the rear,and lean over- and a bit forward.It's really fun and makes you feel like you're riding a super-bike on a race track. I love it and I don't miss the other way of driving at all.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
There is 7.5" more rubber on the snow with the warrior. When you have it nailed down with spikes, that 7.5" makes it a LOT harder to steer. If you loose the spikes (and maybe lower the transfer a tad), you should be able to do nice controlled slides with that warrior. Main reason I hate riding with track spikes is that the steering is SEVERELY affected. I don't like that feeling of going into a corner and wondering if I'm going to end up on the wrong side with oncoming traffic.
boneman
Extreme
I found that my Warrior transfered to much weight and unloaded the front end, this made it impossible to kick the rear around/slide so I set the transfer rod to lowest setting, it still transfered to much so I got some 3/8in. nylon spacers from Home Depot bored them to fit the shaft then cut an 1/8in. tapered slot in them so I could slide them over the shaft. It works awesome you cant get the front end off the ground its like zero transer. If you ride groomed trails it's the perfect set up. If things get rough like 3 foot moguls then you have to adjust the rod for some transfer. You wont win any races off the line with this set up but you will rail corners.
MOTOWN SPEEDFREEK
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I would say its the long track,I have 2 RX-1s .1=121 with 192 studs in 1.25 ripe saw and i can do a controled slide.the 136 with with144 studs i cannot slide, but hooks up great!!!!
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